I'm back 
BTW, the highest it can go is 250Hz not 120 as I thought.
Also, its an entry level soundcard, Asus Xonar DX, not sure if its capable enough to do any justice to my speakers.
But, in that website, they saying that its made for Accoustic music and have a frequency response of 80 hz to 20 khz
No, its not.
BTW, the highest it can go is 250Hz not 120 as I thought.
Also, its an entry level soundcard, Asus Xonar DX, not sure if its capable enough to do any justice to my speakers.
Very cool !
Thats what I was looking for !!
OK !I think we need to nail down "loud"ish.
Because (in a sentence) if you do crank it, then you'll need some sort of multi driver system:
A) bass 'fulranger' with top end help
B) top end 'fulranger' with bass help
If you don't crank it then you may be able to squeak enough low distortion bass out of a true fullrange.
[And I of course mean this is the utmostly general, not-bashing-yer-fullrange, non-flaming way possible ... ]
So, I think we need:
1) room size, shape, situation (speaker posit, entranceways etc ..)
2) some sort of spl measurement (1V/1m; or list position; ...)
Do you have a suitable mic? Err, sorry to foist a job on you ...
Cheers,
Jeff
1. How loud ?
My current speaker sensitivity: 92 db
Amp volume: 40%, means 90*40/100= ~36W
Max SPL I listen= 110 db (?)
2. I think a fullranger with help on the bottom end should work provided the driver has good "top end sparkle" ?
3. Shape of my computer room:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
4. I don't have any SPL meter with me right now but may I can borrow it from someone !!
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If you must use a lower crossover and sub out, go with the FF105 in a met, to give you some support in the low mids / upper bass.
I'm back
But, in that website, they saying that its made for Accoustic music and have a frequency response of 80 hz to 20 khz
That is actually about what you get with FE103 in that box. FF105 goes quite a bit lower.
Not stereo means you do not want to try to use it much higher than 120 Hz. Many would say keep it lower than that.
dave
I'd be inclined towards the THX standard of 80Hz for mono bass
For SPL meters, if you have a smart phone, there are dozens of apps that range from rudimentary SPL to very sophisticated audio tools - the latter using calibrated external mics. I think you'll be surprised just how loud 110dB is, or the long term effects of prolonged exposure
https://www.osha.gov/SLTC/noisehearingconservation/#loud.
For SPL meters, if you have a smart phone, there are dozens of apps that range from rudimentary SPL to very sophisticated audio tools - the latter using calibrated external mics. I think you'll be surprised just how loud 110dB is, or the long term effects of prolonged exposure
https://www.osha.gov/SLTC/noisehearingconservation/#loud.
Cool !
So, if I add a transmissionline or a horn loaded sub using a crossover for 300hz and below, it should work, right ?
Oh, ok !
So, I'm ruling out that solution.
I just used a calculator from a website to find it out using the sensitivity of my speakers and amp power.
May be the my estimations are incorrrect as I know 110 db is very very loud.
Yes, it CAN be an open room but apart from the staircase, the doors and windows remain closed most of the time.
But, you are right about corner loading, there are no suitable space for that.
Right now, I think I can use my current speakers for the SPL duties as they can go very loud and use the upcoming fullranger for proper music listening.
My amp does have an A, B speaker selector so that I can change the speakers in an instant.
So, let me sort of summarize the "latest" goals and decisions now.
1. If there is any compromise to be made on the SQ to play loud for a fullrange design, I'm OK to use my current speakers for SPL duties while the upcoming speaker just for serious music listening.
BTW, I love treble and top end details.
2. A FAST with a not so big dimensions would be ideal. (Dimensions -W:300, H:1500mm, D:500 mm max)
3.My soundcard doesn't support stereo sub out. So, I shouldn't use it for music ?
4. My room is oddly shaped so many loud speaker designs won't work.
5. I'm still confused on what type of a fullarange enclosure design to go for and which driver.
There are a lot of pending work in my company and the pressure is slowly getting to my head now, can't concentrate on other things unfortunately
So, any help would be greatly appreciated.
I just found this thread and I also like LOUD rock. I recently moved 1200 miles and due to the cost of moving / storage / moving again, some of my stuff got sold or given away. In the next few months I will be putting what remains back together, and building some new stuff.
Back in Florida I had four systems. The one that saw the most use did rock very well, but did not do loud. It is a pair of Yamaha NS-10M Studio Monitors with a budget sub for help below 80Hz. This was actually used in a recording/playback setup, and worked well for that purpose. It will be reassembled in pretty much the same configuration for studio, mixing, and mastering purposes.
I have a pair of FH3's and they sound very nice and detailed, don't hit the dynamics as well as the Yamaha's, and again don't do loud. They will also be used in the studio.
Back in post #5 I believe someone said:
Check out Audio Nirvanna drivers at commonsenseaudio.com
A couple of years back I got a pair of Cast Frame 10's and built a pair of EZ10 horns. There is a thread about them in this forum somewhere. When fed with a 125 WPC tube amp these did loud, and did it well. The drivers are only rated for 35 watts, so you can't crank it, but with 96 db sensitivity, you don't have to. Metallica, Floyd, Depeche Mode, all sound great even pushed to the drivers limits. Sadly, I sold these speakers, because they were too damn big, and the wife thought they were ugly.
I also mounted a pair of Hawthorne Silver Iris drivers into a matched pair of old console radios for an "antique look" that made Sherri happy. The Silver Iris is a coaxial speaker with a 15 inch Eminence woofer, and a horn tweeter firing through the center of the magnet. These mild mannered old radios could hit 120 db SPL and do it all day long. They do LOUD! Want a Metallica concert inside your house, just turn the 125 WPC amp up all the way. These made the trip, and will be hooked back up.
Back in Florida I had four systems. The one that saw the most use did rock very well, but did not do loud. It is a pair of Yamaha NS-10M Studio Monitors with a budget sub for help below 80Hz. This was actually used in a recording/playback setup, and worked well for that purpose. It will be reassembled in pretty much the same configuration for studio, mixing, and mastering purposes.
I have a pair of FH3's and they sound very nice and detailed, don't hit the dynamics as well as the Yamaha's, and again don't do loud. They will also be used in the studio.
Back in post #5 I believe someone said:
Check out Audio Nirvanna drivers at commonsenseaudio.com
A couple of years back I got a pair of Cast Frame 10's and built a pair of EZ10 horns. There is a thread about them in this forum somewhere. When fed with a 125 WPC tube amp these did loud, and did it well. The drivers are only rated for 35 watts, so you can't crank it, but with 96 db sensitivity, you don't have to. Metallica, Floyd, Depeche Mode, all sound great even pushed to the drivers limits. Sadly, I sold these speakers, because they were too damn big, and the wife thought they were ugly.
I also mounted a pair of Hawthorne Silver Iris drivers into a matched pair of old console radios for an "antique look" that made Sherri happy. The Silver Iris is a coaxial speaker with a 15 inch Eminence woofer, and a horn tweeter firing through the center of the magnet. These mild mannered old radios could hit 120 db SPL and do it all day long. They do LOUD! Want a Metallica concert inside your house, just turn the 125 WPC amp up all the way. These made the trip, and will be hooked back up.
eljoantonyn ,
With a Foobar plug-in you can actually set a digital XO with your Xonar DX... with that plug-in you can set XO frequencies, control volume and play around with the XO design a bit IIRC. You can have stereo bass drivers/subs too...A friend had shown me how, so I can't recall the exact procedures/features that much.
As you have mentioned there is an option under the Asus utility also to choose large or small fronts and assigning XO frequency. You will need two amps though for an active FAST setup. The amp to drive your mid-top can be lower powered vs the one for bass drivers. DO you have 2 amps?
For a FAST that will kick **s with hard rock and metal you will need good woofers that play well from 40-500 Hz. As you mentioned your XO will be be probably ~250 Hz. Though XO is lower at ~250Hz, a bit of headroom for woofers/mid-bass is recommended for cleaner output. What options for bass drivers do you have in the local market?
With a Foobar plug-in you can actually set a digital XO with your Xonar DX... with that plug-in you can set XO frequencies, control volume and play around with the XO design a bit IIRC. You can have stereo bass drivers/subs too...A friend had shown me how, so I can't recall the exact procedures/features that much.
As you have mentioned there is an option under the Asus utility also to choose large or small fronts and assigning XO frequency. You will need two amps though for an active FAST setup. The amp to drive your mid-top can be lower powered vs the one for bass drivers. DO you have 2 amps?
For a FAST that will kick **s with hard rock and metal you will need good woofers that play well from 40-500 Hz. As you mentioned your XO will be be probably ~250 Hz. Though XO is lower at ~250Hz, a bit of headroom for woofers/mid-bass is recommended for cleaner output. What options for bass drivers do you have in the local market?
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Those Cast Frame 10's has incredible specs !!
120 db !!
:RESPECT:
I don't have any extra amps but I can buy plate amps from Dayton or build a 250W mono amp from a ready-to-wire kit.
As for the availabilty of woofers, I can get most of the Dayton and Peerless drivers from my friend.
But Fullrange drivers...the availability is a lot less.
I'll have to order it from madisound or partsexpress I guess.
I think the effect of an open staircase is identical (or at least similar) to an open doorway, or any opening like windows etc.
Other than fighting with it, you may use speakers that don't pressurize the room. (or it doesn't count on it to maintain the balance) Dipole, that is. (Slot loaded brings back the punch. But it's still not good at very low frequency, below 30Hz or so... )
It has another benefit for this application -- very uniform power response, in and out of the room.
With boxed speakers, when the setup is optimised for a sweet spot in the room, then it mostly sounds boomy when you walk away to the outside. With dipole, it maintains the same tonal balance, just quieter overall when you go further.
But, fullrange unit, high SPL and dipole can't be one thing.
Other than fighting with it, you may use speakers that don't pressurize the room. (or it doesn't count on it to maintain the balance) Dipole, that is. (Slot loaded brings back the punch. But it's still not good at very low frequency, below 30Hz or so... )
It has another benefit for this application -- very uniform power response, in and out of the room.
With boxed speakers, when the setup is optimised for a sweet spot in the room, then it mostly sounds boomy when you walk away to the outside. With dipole, it maintains the same tonal balance, just quieter overall when you go further.
But, fullrange unit, high SPL and dipole can't be one thing.
That would be multi-way. Have a look at this thread: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/123512-ultimate-ob-gallery.html
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