I've tried doing a search already, but all I can find is info on fake transistors.
I have an old pioneer prologic amp, I've tried to fix it but I give up.
I've tested the power supply - still good, and as far as I can tell the main transistors are still good as well (anyone have a sure fire way of testing them?).
I am going to salvage from the amp:
- +-69V supply complete with a big transformer and specialized Pioneer Filter Capacitors at 8200uf. (still good)
- (2) 2sc3281 and (2) 2sa1302 (originals from a pioneer unit - notcounterfiet)
I also have the lower stage original toshiba transistors but I dont know if they are good, so I will need a way to test.
I also have the chassis with a LARGE heatsink that can handle lots of heat.
So if anyone has suggestions on how to easily find out if these transistors are still good, and if they are any suggestions on a power amp I could build with these components. I am open to pretty much anything I was thinking maybe a Class A, but I'd be interested in high output designs as well. Thanks in advance everyone.
I have an old pioneer prologic amp, I've tried to fix it but I give up.
I've tested the power supply - still good, and as far as I can tell the main transistors are still good as well (anyone have a sure fire way of testing them?).
I am going to salvage from the amp:
- +-69V supply complete with a big transformer and specialized Pioneer Filter Capacitors at 8200uf. (still good)
- (2) 2sc3281 and (2) 2sa1302 (originals from a pioneer unit - notcounterfiet)
I also have the lower stage original toshiba transistors but I dont know if they are good, so I will need a way to test.
I also have the chassis with a LARGE heatsink that can handle lots of heat.
So if anyone has suggestions on how to easily find out if these transistors are still good, and if they are any suggestions on a power amp I could build with these components. I am open to pretty much anything I was thinking maybe a Class A, but I'd be interested in high output designs as well. Thanks in advance everyone.
Any chance of some pictures of the amp? most importantly of the heatsink.. might help people suggest what you could build with it, I mean Class A gives off a lot of heat, the heatsink may look big but if its the original from the pioneer amp then it may not be big enough for a class A.. What kind of power are you looking to achieve? what impedance speakers are you wanting to drive it with?
Cheers,
Owen
Cheers,
Owen
pictures:
- the mouse is for size comparison
I figured the heat sink would be good for around 10 watts class A (?)
Looking to drive an 8 ohm load.
The original amp was rated to 125 watts (yeah right).
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
- the mouse is for size comparison
I figured the heat sink would be good for around 10 watts class A (?)
Looking to drive an 8 ohm load.
The original amp was rated to 125 watts (yeah right).
Hi bigphil,
I think your biggest problem is that the transformer output and transistors / heatsink are mismatched. With lower supply voltages the SymAsym would be good, there's the GEM and a few others around.
You will find that heatsink will get hot at 20 W average heat input. Those fins have poor thermal contact with the mounting plate. Look closely at it. I have thrown most of that type out as next to useless.
I didn't mention Greg Ball's amp because it's a complete kit, not what you asked for.
So keep your eye's peeled for other junk amps for heatsinks and transformers. Your transformer is good for something, so are the outputs and other bits you have.
A transistor tester would be a good thing to build up or buy right now for you.
-Chris
I think your biggest problem is that the transformer output and transistors / heatsink are mismatched. With lower supply voltages the SymAsym would be good, there's the GEM and a few others around.
You will find that heatsink will get hot at 20 W average heat input. Those fins have poor thermal contact with the mounting plate. Look closely at it. I have thrown most of that type out as next to useless.
I didn't mention Greg Ball's amp because it's a complete kit, not what you asked for.
So keep your eye's peeled for other junk amps for heatsinks and transformers. Your transformer is good for something, so are the outputs and other bits you have.
A transistor tester would be a good thing to build up or buy right now for you.
-Chris
Re: ..
Thanks for your suggestions, I will probably just salvage what I can then until I decide more specifically what I'd like. Can you recomment me a good transistor tester?
It was a pro-logic. I tried fixing it for a long time, but it acts too funny (inconsistent between power-ups) which makes it hard to troubleshoot. It was a VSX-9500S, I have another complete working model and really like the sound - only 0.005% THD.
anatech said:Hi bigphil,
I think your biggest problem is that the transformer output and transistors / heatsink are mismatched. With lower supply voltages the SymAsym would be good, there's the GEM and a few others around.
You will find that heatsink will get hot at 20 W average heat input. Those fins have poor thermal contact with the mounting plate. Look closely at it. I have thrown most of that type out as next to useless.
I didn't mention Greg Ball's amp because it's a complete kit, not what you asked for.
So keep your eye's peeled for other junk amps for heatsinks and transformers. Your transformer is good for something, so are the outputs and other bits you have.
A transistor tester would be a good thing to build up or buy right now for you.
-Chris
Thanks for your suggestions, I will probably just salvage what I can then until I decide more specifically what I'd like. Can you recomment me a good transistor tester?
parsecaudio said:What is the exact pioneer integrated model ?
It was a pro-logic. I tried fixing it for a long time, but it acts too funny (inconsistent between power-ups) which makes it hard to troubleshoot. It was a VSX-9500S, I have another complete working model and really like the sound - only 0.005% THD.
Hi bigphil
The Toshiba 2sc3281-2sa1302 are a very good complementary transistors:high FT and good linerarity
.For your pro logic integrated amp,if the power amp stage are similar to the VSX series,it is not a bad amp,but it have a very small open loop bandwihdth.The distortion specified is for middle frequency only,due to decrease of NFB it will increase to high frequencies.A better solution for the output stage can be made.
The Toshiba 2sc3281-2sa1302 are a very good complementary transistors:high FT and good linerarity
.For your pro logic integrated amp,if the power amp stage are similar to the VSX series,it is not a bad amp,but it have a very small open loop bandwihdth.The distortion specified is for middle frequency only,due to decrease of NFB it will increase to high frequencies.A better solution for the output stage can be made.
I already have a Fluke DMM, so I would be more interested in a specialized transistor testing unit. Hopefully under $100 or so? I will check out ebay I guess.
parsecaudio - I actually have noticed the bandwidth is rather narrow on my Pioneer VSX. Thanks for the tips. Any suggestions for something to test transistors?
parsecaudio - I actually have noticed the bandwidth is rather narrow on my Pioneer VSX. Thanks for the tips. Any suggestions for something to test transistors?
Hi parsecaudio,
Check out a Heathkit IT-18. The hFE readings agree with a jig, even with power transistors. In servicing, leakage is m big problem that you don't see with new parts (I hope). I find the hFE part of multimeters somewhat course for matching, but it's better than just reaching in a bag and pulling some parts out.
Of course, you can always just build a jig with sockets, resistors and a power supply. Measure base and emitter (or collector) currents and you're off to the races. Did that too.
-Chris
Check out a Heathkit IT-18. The hFE readings agree with a jig, even with power transistors. In servicing, leakage is m big problem that you don't see with new parts (I hope). I find the hFE part of multimeters somewhat course for matching, but it's better than just reaching in a bag and pulling some parts out.
Of course, you can always just build a jig with sockets, resistors and a power supply. Measure base and emitter (or collector) currents and you're off to the races. Did that too.
-Chris
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