Thanks guys!
Lots of info and food for thought here. 'Guess my first step will be to buy one of the Rat Shack PCB kits and "get my feet wet."
Don't worry too much about my handling the ferric chloride - I'm used to handling much nastier fare than that in the lab. Gloves, goggles, and my lab coat natuerlich....
Thanks again and all the best!
Morse
Lots of info and food for thought here. 'Guess my first step will be to buy one of the Rat Shack PCB kits and "get my feet wet."
Don't worry too much about my handling the ferric chloride - I'm used to handling much nastier fare than that in the lab. Gloves, goggles, and my lab coat natuerlich....
Thanks again and all the best!
Morse
i've been using photo-etch and tracing paper all along. it is much easier to print on tracing paper, and can be printed on inkjets. inkjet cant print on any transparency, and it is more expensive.
also, the "film" can be reuse many times without reprinting.
i use regular table lamp to expose the pcb, and normal trays to develop and etch
also, the "film" can be reuse many times without reprinting.
i use regular table lamp to expose the pcb, and normal trays to develop and etch
Time to revive an old thread again. I have made my first attempts
at the toner transfer method, not without some success, but not
entirely with success either. So far I've tried ordinary copying
paper, TDK PROquality Heavy weight photo paper and
Kodak Picture Paper glossy.
Plain copying paper could take a lot of heat, but didn't release
the toner properly. I got very bad adhesion partially. The TDK
paper transferred well, except in two places, but I had to burn
it severly and it looked awful afterwards. The Kodak paper
worked best. I had to fry that one too quite a lot, but at least
it transfered well. The main problem was that it also left a
transparent film in many places and which seems impossible
to get rid of either than by mechanical means, which means
quite a lot of work. Maybe I could have fried that paper for
shorter time or at lower temperature/pressure? Has any of
you experienced such a transparent film? Kermit, if you are
reading this, are there no such problem with BilTemas paper?
BTW, I used my iron at the highest temperature, ie. linen.
Another problem was that the transfer seemed to somewhat
wider than the original, it seems the toner floats out slightly
in all directions. Maybe that is what some of you mean by
smearing?
Has anybody considered using wery porous lightweight paper
instead, like maybe japanese or chinese watercolour paper?
That should be pure fibre paper, contrary to the photo papers
which seem to contain plastics, and I suspect they should
dissolve easily even if the toner is heavily stuck in them, but
maybe not?
Any advice for better success is welcome.
at the toner transfer method, not without some success, but not
entirely with success either. So far I've tried ordinary copying
paper, TDK PROquality Heavy weight photo paper and
Kodak Picture Paper glossy.
Plain copying paper could take a lot of heat, but didn't release
the toner properly. I got very bad adhesion partially. The TDK
paper transferred well, except in two places, but I had to burn
it severly and it looked awful afterwards. The Kodak paper
worked best. I had to fry that one too quite a lot, but at least
it transfered well. The main problem was that it also left a
transparent film in many places and which seems impossible
to get rid of either than by mechanical means, which means
quite a lot of work. Maybe I could have fried that paper for
shorter time or at lower temperature/pressure? Has any of
you experienced such a transparent film? Kermit, if you are
reading this, are there no such problem with BilTemas paper?
BTW, I used my iron at the highest temperature, ie. linen.
Another problem was that the transfer seemed to somewhat
wider than the original, it seems the toner floats out slightly
in all directions. Maybe that is what some of you mean by
smearing?
Has anybody considered using wery porous lightweight paper
instead, like maybe japanese or chinese watercolour paper?
That should be pure fibre paper, contrary to the photo papers
which seem to contain plastics, and I suspect they should
dissolve easily even if the toner is heavily stuck in them, but
maybe not?
Any advice for better success is welcome.
Re: Tracing paper
I don't know either, but I have a suspicion I just realized what
they mean. It could be that kind of semitransparent paper you
use to put over an original and copy it by hand. Contrary to
transparencies it is made purely of fibres and you can write on
it by pencil etc. Hm, I have such paper, but it is to late at night
to try it with my noisy laser.
Alcaid said:This may sound stupid, but I don't know what tracing paper is.Anyone know where to buy it in Norway? Any brands that are better than others?
I don't know either, but I have a suspicion I just realized what
they mean. It could be that kind of semitransparent paper you
use to put over an original and copy it by hand. Contrary to
transparencies it is made purely of fibres and you can write on
it by pencil etc. Hm, I have such paper, but it is to late at night
to try it with my noisy laser.
Arghh, to late to edit.
Anyway, I just checked the paper I have and that I just described
and it says tracing paper on the cover.
Don't know if it helps our norwegian friends by it is usually
called kalkerpapper in swedish, although it is seldomly used
nowadays.
To bad my laser printer is just by the wall to my neighbours
bedroom. I want to try this paper now!!!
Anyway, I just checked the paper I have and that I just described
and it says tracing paper on the cover.
Don't know if it helps our norwegian friends by it is usually
called kalkerpapper in swedish, although it is seldomly used
nowadays.
To bad my laser printer is just by the wall to my neighbours
bedroom. I want to try this paper now!!!
sam9 said:
Yes, both types I have are made by art paper manufacturers
and I bought them in shops for artist material. Most such shops
seem not to have such paper even, and the paper I have was
bought over 5 years ago, so maybe it is even more difficult
to buy now.
Anyway, I have made three trials with tracing paper today,
two with Canson paper and one with Shöllershammer. They
both gave very crisp print on the paper, but there were
problems with the transfer. Even with a lot of heating and
pressure I got bad adhesion locally. Further, there was a
strong tendency for smearing, especially with the Canson
paper, which made it difficult to heat for long time or with
high pressure. Mission failed!
Kermit said:
Good. Thanks. Sounds like I should be off to BilTema tomorrow
then and buy some of their paper.
Started new thread here
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=401531#post401531
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=401531#post401531
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.