LM1876

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Accepted solutions.

1) Ground Pin 5,10 shifted to power ground.
2) Zobel shifted to decoupling ground.
3) RF makes low input voltage, So instead of using RF I put 220pf between input pins. Pls. describe RF & 220pf (between input pins) functionality.
4) Lower value resistor sounds good to me. but it cut low bass. with the same value resister Post # 17 I can fit 2.2uf input cap. Anyway, now I have selected standard value resistor.
5) I am using 4R speakers and power supply voltage is 20VDC(+/-) I read datasheet and found if I increase supply voltage it produce heat instead of producing output-power. So I can get 22W of continuous average output power with less than 0.1%THD.
 

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How about adding diodes across the 1r and across the DC blocking cap/s in the NFB and across the the power rails via PG and across the power rails via output/s rail?

Remove that loop in the signal routing. The Signal Return is half a mile from the signal hot !!!!!!!
 
Last edited:
Remove that loop in the signal routing. The Signal Return is half a mile from the signal hot !!!!!!!

Updated.

I tried couple of times powered ON/OFF with source and without source connected. The speaker says I have powered ON. And sometimes silence. ( I should not call it POP )

When I need complete silence, I will have to use Amp's MUTE pin. I stared googling.... and found following link. I don't understand whether this circuit would work or not. But yes I can copy it. What is your opinion ?

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The LM1876 is spec'd for 10V to 32V (20V-64V for single-supply) so 18-0-18 should be just about right for bridged use. I didn't run the math; it may be a tad high for effective 4-ohm load, but not so much to be a project killer IMO. Be extra generous when selecting a heat sink.
 
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