L15D-Pro best voltage
Hello,
I have a question to L15D-Pro modules. I read that the L15D modules works best with higher voltage (as near to 60V as possble). But for the L15D-Pro their is a recomendation to use max 50V. Is this because of the protection unit? And is it possible to drive the protectet module with 60V either? Or are there other reasons why the L15D-Pro can only work with max. 50Volts?
Regards Axel
Hello,
I have a question to L15D-Pro modules. I read that the L15D modules works best with higher voltage (as near to 60V as possble). But for the L15D-Pro their is a recomendation to use max 50V. Is this because of the protection unit? And is it possible to drive the protectet module with 60V either? Or are there other reasons why the L15D-Pro can only work with max. 50Volts?
Regards Axel
VGS. They and BJT similar measurement. First, the first in a pin the voltage.
Usually have a 3.3 V - 3.6 V, N - MOSFET, P - MOSFET voltage is different.
Generally I suggest that need not adjust L7 above values.
double output stage
Hi LJM.
I purchased this amp kit from Ebay. The amp board is very good quality and I have assembeld and tested for basic operation with no heatsink (+-/ 35 v, 10 ohm in series with supply rails. Both modules worked first time. I would like to add a second pair of output fets to increase the output current ....Is this possible. The aucton states:
Class AB MOSFET L7 Audio power amplifier boards KIT DUAL-CHANNEL 300-350W X2 NEW."
I dont think in this configuration it can handle 300w RMS. My supply rails will be +/- 74DC. Could I safely add the second set of fets? Should I add 2 sets??
Thanks
Hi LJM.
I purchased this amp kit from Ebay. The amp board is very good quality and I have assembeld and tested for basic operation with no heatsink (+-/ 35 v, 10 ohm in series with supply rails. Both modules worked first time. I would like to add a second pair of output fets to increase the output current ....Is this possible. The aucton states:
Class AB MOSFET L7 Audio power amplifier boards KIT DUAL-CHANNEL 300-350W X2 NEW."
I dont think in this configuration it can handle 300w RMS. My supply rails will be +/- 74DC. Could I safely add the second set of fets? Should I add 2 sets??
Thanks
Hi LJM_LJM,
Just got my boards and started examining the circuit. There are several problems with the components marked on the PCB. First the PCB is NOT desigbed for IRFP9240/240 because if IRFs were used the PCB would connect two source pins of the MOSFETs. Look at F5 PCB and you will see what I am talking about. F5 PCB connects middle pins of the IRF MOSFETs which are drains not sources. If you use Toshiba K1058/J162 lateral MOSFETs (probably a better choice anyway) the pin layout IS CORRECT. Next in the driver stage there are 2 2N5551 close together. The pin layout of 2N5551 like 2N5401 is EBC looking at the flat front of the transistor. However the PCB layout for 2N5551 drivers has middle pins connected, if they are BASE this makes no sense. Looking at the schematic in post #5, 2N5551 drivers have COLLECTORS connected indicating that the pin layout is ECB not EBC, which for 2N5551 is _wrong_. I don't know if there are any suitable transistors that would match ECB pin layout. I can bend the pins and fix that but why was this done? I don't get it. A mistake of the PCB designer I guess. The bigger problem is that the PCB and the IRF MOSFETs supplied do not match the pin layout of the IRFs, so there is no way on Earth that this PCB would work with the IRFs without modifying (cutting) the PCB pads. For the sake of making this kit buyers happy, LJM_LJM can you please comment on this.
Just got my boards and started examining the circuit. There are several problems with the components marked on the PCB. First the PCB is NOT desigbed for IRFP9240/240 because if IRFs were used the PCB would connect two source pins of the MOSFETs. Look at F5 PCB and you will see what I am talking about. F5 PCB connects middle pins of the IRF MOSFETs which are drains not sources. If you use Toshiba K1058/J162 lateral MOSFETs (probably a better choice anyway) the pin layout IS CORRECT. Next in the driver stage there are 2 2N5551 close together. The pin layout of 2N5551 like 2N5401 is EBC looking at the flat front of the transistor. However the PCB layout for 2N5551 drivers has middle pins connected, if they are BASE this makes no sense. Looking at the schematic in post #5, 2N5551 drivers have COLLECTORS connected indicating that the pin layout is ECB not EBC, which for 2N5551 is _wrong_. I don't know if there are any suitable transistors that would match ECB pin layout. I can bend the pins and fix that but why was this done? I don't get it. A mistake of the PCB designer I guess. The bigger problem is that the PCB and the IRF MOSFETs supplied do not match the pin layout of the IRFs, so there is no way on Earth that this PCB would work with the IRFs without modifying (cutting) the PCB pads. For the sake of making this kit buyers happy, LJM_LJM can you please comment on this.
Please PM me and lets exchange schematics. Have you finished building your amp?
Did some readings. That was a very silly comment by me, the F5 is a common source class A amplifier and L7 is a common drain class AB amplifier. There is nothing wrong with the circuit, or the components supplied including IRFP MOSFETs. 2N5551 has ECB pin layout but this is not a big deal.
I know why you think like that.
But it's a little secret.
I can only say that a lot of parts, they don't look so simple on the surface of the model.
You can be at ease completely, about is a very stable, and very reliable power amplifier.
Member
Joined 2003
Hi ljm,
I have purchased and assembled 5-channel surround amplifier using your L15D-Pro modules. They were easy to assemble and all work just great! However, I guess I did not buy from the right eBay seller? I used Happyshop1982. My boards look just as advertised, except for output filter cap is a Carli instead of Tenta, and power supply buffer caps are Nichicon PW series. I checked all parts out thoroughly, all checked ok.
I am driving with 54V rails. Sound is excellent, the amp I swapped out for comparison was an old Harman Kardon HK6900, rated 170W/ch. The L15D sound is more revealing I find, however a bit more tizzy on the very high end where the HK had a very smooth high end. On the other hand, the HK is making at least 100W of heat before any sound reaches your ear, the L15D is a fraction of that, and modules did not appear any warmer then at idle after playing loudly.
Anyway, just wanted to say thanks for the great amplifier modules, they are great.
I have purchased and assembled 5-channel surround amplifier using your L15D-Pro modules. They were easy to assemble and all work just great! However, I guess I did not buy from the right eBay seller? I used Happyshop1982. My boards look just as advertised, except for output filter cap is a Carli instead of Tenta, and power supply buffer caps are Nichicon PW series. I checked all parts out thoroughly, all checked ok.
I am driving with 54V rails. Sound is excellent, the amp I swapped out for comparison was an old Harman Kardon HK6900, rated 170W/ch. The L15D sound is more revealing I find, however a bit more tizzy on the very high end where the HK had a very smooth high end. On the other hand, the HK is making at least 100W of heat before any sound reaches your ear, the L15D is a fraction of that, and modules did not appear any warmer then at idle after playing loudly.
Anyway, just wanted to say thanks for the great amplifier modules, they are great.
This is because the protection module. Relay for rated coil voltage 48 v. Not more than 55 v + - recommended voltage.
60 v can be used, should be in the relay power supply in series a resistor? The resistance of the relay is about 6.3 K
Then the series of resistance around 1.2K 0.25/W
Hello,
Do you know if this module can work fine with a 30V transformer (42VCC then) ?
I have a couple of surrounds to power and I am wondering if a L7 based amplifier would do the job or if I should buy a L15.
I'm not a quality addict when talking about HomeTheater.
Extra question : Do you think one module could power a passive subwoofer (4 ohms, 25cm) with a 300VA transformer ?
Do you know if this module can work fine with a 30V transformer (42VCC then) ?
I have a couple of surrounds to power and I am wondering if a L7 based amplifier would do the job or if I should buy a L15.
I'm not a quality addict when talking about HomeTheater.
Extra question : Do you think one module could power a passive subwoofer (4 ohms, 25cm) with a 300VA transformer ?
Woow, thanks for heads up. I built one channel but have not tested it yet since I still don't have a PS. Did you place transistors and FETs exactly as printed on the PCB? It really sucks we don't have a complete circuit.
I came to this forum through an interest in Class D. My first project is going to be a dual mono integrated usb dac/amp for my office. Quality isn't critical here so I want it to be as cheap as possible just in case i make any mistakes.
I already have a $35 6J1 valve preamp and a suitable dac board but need a little help with decisions regarding power amplification.
I will choose 2 of either CxD300 or L15D-Pro as both of these boards have onboard protection circuits and seem otherwise similar. However I am unable to decide how these should be powered. I like the simplicity and low power consumption of SMPS but don't understand the various options available.
Also would I need anything other than various chassis connectors, wiring, the two amp boards and a suitable SMPS module? I have seen talk of soft power buttons and photos of capacitor banks which has just added to the confusion.
I already have a $35 6J1 valve preamp and a suitable dac board but need a little help with decisions regarding power amplification.
I will choose 2 of either CxD300 or L15D-Pro as both of these boards have onboard protection circuits and seem otherwise similar. However I am unable to decide how these should be powered. I like the simplicity and low power consumption of SMPS but don't understand the various options available.
Also would I need anything other than various chassis connectors, wiring, the two amp boards and a suitable SMPS module? I have seen talk of soft power buttons and photos of capacitor banks which has just added to the confusion.