sq225917 said:i have to put those years at Uni doing micro-biotechnology to use some how...
lol.
LSD is much less hassle.
At last, an example of a university degree actually being useful in the real world.
Made a good dent in the priming for the first cabinet:
I would have done more but stupidly thinned 10ltrs worth of primer with the wrong mixing ratio and its now too thin. Its not wasted because I can just top up with additional primer to get the ratio back up to where it acts more as leveler and filler. To do this I need to order more primer though.
The correct ratio is 2:1 or even 3:1 and I used something like 1.2:1 Clearly I was just making it up as I went along.
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I would have done more but stupidly thinned 10ltrs worth of primer with the wrong mixing ratio and its now too thin. Its not wasted because I can just top up with additional primer to get the ratio back up to where it acts more as leveler and filler. To do this I need to order more primer though.
The correct ratio is 2:1 or even 3:1 and I used something like 1.2:1 Clearly I was just making it up as I went along.
m0tion said:Curious, I wouldn't have been able to resist listening to them before I started the finishing process. Did you give them a go?
The AT 8" drivers are still absent unfortunately so never bothered.
Chopped up one of the AT mids this evening
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Vikash said:Come on then, spit it out - how dya do that trick?
Got a fairly big bit of MDF, did the usual driver cutouts and recessing as though it was a baffle but took care to ensure the recess allowed the driver to sit far enough into the baffle so as the surround wasn't proud of the surface - important because the router will foul them otherwise and could damage the driver.
Then created a template of exactly what bits of the drivers needed chopping in order to sit correctly in the finished baffles and after that it was a case of setting up a guide for the router to work against (so I didn't chop too much out of the drivers and also to ensure a straight cut). The just run the router along the guide and jobs a good'un.
In case anyone was wondering, the router went through the AT frames like butter, I did the whole thing in one pass. Although I'd be careful with some drivers as they have steel frames which is much tougher than these alu ones.
On the exposed and cut bits I simply applied laquer with a finger nail brush to keep the material from tarnishing.
Ahh, that's what I was wondering. Didn't realise they were Alu framesShinOBIWAN said:In case anyone was wondering, the router went through the AT frames like butter, I did the whole thing in one pass. Although I'd be careful with some drivers as they have steel frames which is much tougher than these alu ones.
Vikash said:
Ahh, that's what I was wondering. Didn't realise they were Alu frames
Yep I wasn't really sure if they were steel or such until I started cutting. You can always tell if your dealing with steel because sparks *will* start to fly and you'll have a really tough time with a router but in comparison alu peels off in bits because its much softer.
You wouldn't believe how pleased I was when I realised it was alu and not steel.
A bit of general FYI that's some related:
Most tweeter faceplates are alu or plastic and are good for routing into if you need to get the mid-tweeter spacing as close as possible.
On the other hand, alu baskets on drivers are pretty rare because it costs more than steel. AT and Seas use alu baskets and are the ones that I know of.
terry j said:could you not use a magnet to find out whether or not it is steel prior to the routing attempt?? That way at least you will know if you need to take it super easy with the routing depth etc
Duh, now why didn't I think of that? No seriously, when I read back you post I thought "Jesus I'm dumb". I've been putting off this little job for the past few weeks simply because I was worried about cocking things up if it was steel. Had I used a magnet... well I will if there's a next time
Cheers for that Terry.
As far as I'm aware, die cast baskets for cone drivers (see AT website) are always aluminium (or plastic for the el-cheapo ones).
Eg. Eton, Auday, Focal, Vifa etc all have alu baskets when die cast.
Only those baskets punched out of sheet metal are iron. They are easily distinguishable from cast baskets.
A rare exception to this rule was a pair of 5" Thorolf woofers I had back in the 80's. These had cast iron baskets, and it showed. They were rough as guts.
Eg. Eton, Auday, Focal, Vifa etc all have alu baskets when die cast.
Only those baskets punched out of sheet metal are iron. They are easily distinguishable from cast baskets.
A rare exception to this rule was a pair of 5" Thorolf woofers I had back in the 80's. These had cast iron baskets, and it showed. They were rough as guts.
Grumpy_Git said:"if" ?
Nick.
I meant if I decide to chop up a driver frame again.
fgroen said:As far as I'm aware, die cast baskets for cone drivers (see AT website) are always aluminium (or plastic for the el-cheapo ones).
Eg. Eton, Auday, Focal, Vifa etc all have alu baskets when die cast.
Only those baskets punched out of sheet metal are iron. They are easily distinguishable from cast baskets.
A rare exception to this rule was a pair of 5" Thorolf woofers I had back in the 80's. These had cast iron baskets, and it showed. They were rough as guts.
Ah that's fairly good news then, although I still wouldn't recommend it as whatever your cutting up has virtually zero resale value. Not good when you just 'defaced' £600 worth of mids
ShinOBIWAN said:
Ah that's fairly good news then, although I still wouldn't recommend it as whatever your cutting up has virtually zero resale value. Not good when you just 'defaced' £600 worth of mids
Agree. Can never be too cautious.
Rough spray job before final finishing:
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