'LGT' Construction Diary

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diyAudio Member
Joined 2004
richie00boy said:
Thanks for the tip on the jigsaw. I have a cheap one and it suffers from blade bending. That Bosch one is a bit out of my price range though. Do you know if they do one with that sort of blade mechanism but in a more budget motor/model?

It is a bit much just for a jigsaw but seriously Rich, its freakin sweet in use. Its got RPM sensing and alters the speed to maintain constant torque through even tough or fast cuts, this gives it a uncannily smooth and low vibration cutting action. Its even got a dust blower that clears your line of sight to the blade and work nicely. Its only a powertool but I do think you'll realise its worth the extra once you start using it. It one of those that does what you want without having to work around any limitations and that's what a powertool should be IMO.

BTW I had that same question when was looking into these. As of the middle of last year that model was the only one in the Bosch range with that guide system. I bet others have began to copy this clamping mechanism now so you might pick one up cheaper from them.
 
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FullThrottleRic said:
Do you think you could have got the woofer and mid any closer?! :D

When I was first designing the cabinet I was going to route a couple of mm off the woofer basket but then quickly realised that it isn't such a great idea defacing £1200 worth of bass drivers and if I decide to sell later on they'll be worth far less.

So I adjusted the cabinet to get them as close as possible instead.
 
ShinOBIWAN said:


When I was first designing the cabinet I was going to route a couple of mm off the woofer basket but then quickly realised that it isn't such a great idea defacing £1200 worth of bass drivers and if I decide to sell later on they'll be worth far less.

So I adjusted the cabinet to get them as close as possible instead.


Any idea how easy it is to route metal with a hand router? I have some tweeters with a aluminium face plate that I would like to shave 1cm off each side. Could use a cheap bit so as not to mess up my good ones but wonder if it is even possible? The face plate is a good 5mm thick, though gets thinner to the edge so it wouldn’t be cutting a solid 5mm thickness.
 
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Joined 2004
Tenson said:



Any idea how easy it is to route metal with a hand router? I have some tweeters with a aluminium face plate that I would like to shave 1cm off each side. Could use a cheap bit so as not to mess up my good ones but wonder if it is even possible? The face plate is a good 5mm thick, though gets thinner to the edge so it wouldn’t be cutting a solid 5mm thickness.

Its doable. Only take a couple of mm off each pass as you go. Alu cuts pretty nicely with TCT bits, steel is a definite no-no though.

Just go slow and be careful, also set your router to a high speed otherwise I found it tended to put a load on the motor, the speed would drop and it can then start to bite.

I belive Vik has done more with a router and alu than me so perhaps get in touch for another opinion.
 
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Joined 2004
Tenson said:
So you think I am better using my quality bits than a cheap thing from the market? I have some Trend bits that I normally use (is that TCT? Tungsten carbide tips, right?).

The cheap stuff can barely cut wood let alone alu so I'd recommend using a good bit. Providing you don't try and take too much out at once then it will be fine for just two 5mm tweeter faceplates.

I have Trend myself and used a flush trim bit on a small alu box I made during my experimentations building an amp case. The case didn't turn out very well but the router and bit did a good job and nothing got broke or damaged.
 
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Joined 2004
Tenson said:
Okay thanks, well I'll give it a go. The trim bit seems to have a gentler angle on the cut than streight 2 flute cutters, I wonder if that helps. I'll send you the bill if my router bits gets bodged up ;p

Don't worry they'll be fine if you go slow and careful. Alu is a soft metal and is easy to work. I've cut 12mm thick sheets on the mitre saw and its much easier than I thought it would be. On the other hand, I've cut stainless steel and boy is that stuff tough, the only thing that touched it was the angle grinder.

Vik did some bevels in alu with his router which is more demanding than the trimming I did. Why don't you have a word to see if he's got any tips?
 
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Joined 2004
Making good progress and now have something that vaguely resembles a speaker. Who knows, at this rate I could have the wood work finished by the end of this month.

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I was trying to work out just which one of these two really is mans best friend but it was too close to call :D

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Joined 2004
sqlkev said:
Great progress!

I wonder, is the dog that big? or is the tweeter a bit low?

can't wait to see the end results of this project though :cool:

Ta

There's another 13cm of height, from the base, to go onto what you see there. The total height from floor to the center of the tweeter once these are finished will be 89cm.

If you look at the second photo in that post, the one where the camera is roughly on axis with the tweeter, you can see that once everything is done then this will bring the tweeter upto ear level when sitting on an average couch.
 
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LineSource said:
Doggy says, "the ribbon, especially in a separate box, looks too high to create good MTM dispersion lobes."

Here's a couple of what's quite often regarded as amongst the elite:

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So don't worry everything is in hand and I have a few tricks up my sleeve on the XO side. After playing around with the Audiotech mids I have no doubt these will sound 'kin awesome. :D
 
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m0tion said:
Curious, now that you've stacked them how is the stability of the tower?

Its a death trap. No, seriously it is. :) The tweeter section isn't level and needs the sides trimming flush, so at the moment the top section is tilting to one side and freely rocks around. Will sort in good time but have more interesting things that I want to take care of first.
 
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