Another question for you guys, since I lost bass in this mod but cleared up the highs alot I'm thinking adding a woofer in the trunk, I'd get the following setup :
I would use the woofer outs from my stock unit and insert it into a highlevel input amp to power a medium powered woofer nothing explosive.
And I'd use the 'high frequency out' from the stock unit to power the WHOLE 6x9 because as I said it feels as though I'm missing out on some frequencies this way
My question to you guys : The original "tweeter" was a 4 ohm, the kenwood 6x9 is a 4ohm rated speaker now that I've removed the filter on the mid speaker since the car already has a filter at the amp, If I wire the woofer and the tweeter in parallel without the crossover(capacitor) would that affect the load? Does the capacitor actually "reduce" the load the amp sees?
And when using a high level input amp, does it change anything that the impedance recommended be 2ohm when reamplified?
I would use the woofer outs from my stock unit and insert it into a highlevel input amp to power a medium powered woofer nothing explosive.
And I'd use the 'high frequency out' from the stock unit to power the WHOLE 6x9 because as I said it feels as though I'm missing out on some frequencies this way
My question to you guys : The original "tweeter" was a 4 ohm, the kenwood 6x9 is a 4ohm rated speaker now that I've removed the filter on the mid speaker since the car already has a filter at the amp, If I wire the woofer and the tweeter in parallel without the crossover(capacitor) would that affect the load? Does the capacitor actually "reduce" the load the amp sees?
And when using a high level input amp, does it change anything that the impedance recommended be 2ohm when reamplified?
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here's a sum up, right now the 'mid tweeter' without its filter since its directly on the high frequency cables from the amp sounds better more sound comes to it, I want to rewire the woofer with it on the high frequency cable, and get the woofer out cables to amplify a real woofer instead of the ones on the 6x9
To bypass the fact my stock unit isn't offering RCA outputs I found a little built in sub that sounds great for my needs its got a high level input AMP built in the cabin, what I'm asking is, if the woofer out cables were expected to have a 2ohm load, what load does an amplifier see when it sends its signal to another amp?
To bypass the fact my stock unit isn't offering RCA outputs I found a little built in sub that sounds great for my needs its got a high level input AMP built in the cabin, what I'm asking is, if the woofer out cables were expected to have a 2ohm load, what load does an amplifier see when it sends its signal to another amp?
There is virtually no chance that the light load will damage the OEM amplifier. That doesn't mean that there is absolutely no chance that there could be a problem.
You should also confirm that the high-level input to the sub amp is balanced. If one input is grounded, it could cause problems.
You should also confirm that the high-level input to the sub amp is balanced. If one input is grounded, it could cause problems.
TBH replacing the stock 6x9s with Keni's offerings would always be a waste of time IMO. Rear speakers are largely a complete waste of time in a car-fine for rear passengers, but for the driver they tend to be more detrimental to the sound than beneficial. A set of 4-way 6x9s are usually targetted at 16yr olds who look at shiney things and MAX power...There are better quality 6x9s, normally just 2-way so they can accomodate a decent silk dome tweeter...
I would leave the 6x9s out of the equation all together, take the signal from the bass driver of the OEM 6x9s run that into a LOC and run a subwoofer off that. Remove the 6x9 all together and vent the sub through their appertures.
Front speakers are your main concern for a good car audio system, upgrade those, add an amp for them and filter them out 60-100Hz depending on the drivers you buy and the quality of the install. Run the subwoofer 60Hz and down, sound deaden the boot to prevent rattles to the outside.
I would leave the 6x9s out of the equation all together, take the signal from the bass driver of the OEM 6x9s run that into a LOC and run a subwoofer off that. Remove the 6x9 all together and vent the sub through their appertures.
Front speakers are your main concern for a good car audio system, upgrade those, add an amp for them and filter them out 60-100Hz depending on the drivers you buy and the quality of the install. Run the subwoofer 60Hz and down, sound deaden the boot to prevent rattles to the outside.
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