How i wish i could have this turntable
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Here mine, completely DIY !
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
SME IV with Koetsu Rosewood Signature....
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
DIY tangential arm
Hi all - I'm new here, but could not thank no to this opportunity.
Here is my DIY TT with double carbon fiber armtubes, Ruby cartridge. Internal wiring is Audio Note silver.
The deck is also DIY, but totally taken apart at the moment. I await my DIY Platine Verdier (a friend makes the platter and bearing). The base will be either granite or black glass in some kind of CLD.
Here's another picture:
The arm features adjustable VTA during playing. The thin silicone rubber hose on the back of the arm is normally sitting in an arch behind the arm with the cabling twisted around it. On this picture the arm is disconnected.
This arm will be mounted on my new deck along with my trusted 3012 SME/Ortofon SPU.
Hi all - I'm new here, but could not thank no to this opportunity.
Here is my DIY TT with double carbon fiber armtubes, Ruby cartridge. Internal wiring is Audio Note silver.
The deck is also DIY, but totally taken apart at the moment. I await my DIY Platine Verdier (a friend makes the platter and bearing). The base will be either granite or black glass in some kind of CLD.
Here's another picture:
The arm features adjustable VTA during playing. The thin silicone rubber hose on the back of the arm is normally sitting in an arch behind the arm with the cabling twisted around it. On this picture the arm is disconnected.
This arm will be mounted on my new deck along with my trusted 3012 SME/Ortofon SPU.
Hi Michael,
The two tube construction is quite clever (if I have to say it myself). The top clamp on the base can be loosened which makes it possible to twist the arms to change the azimuth. You can also change the lengt of the arm this way.
Each tube is made with two carbonfiber tubes with a thin layer of paper between them. This makes it much easer to get the thin internal cables through the tubes and gives some kind of damping. The inner tube is filled with cotton to hold the cabeling tight.
Air pressure comes from a big Wisa pump. This is a double chamber pump and very efficient. The pump as well as a big air "capacitor" (a big plastic bottle) are placed in another room and conneted with a 30 feet hose through the walls into the listening room. Air pressure is quite high as the construction works with pressure rather than flow.
My first TT arm had a bearing rod wiht laser drilled holes. But this gave a lot of problem with noise and lack of stability. The next one was based on the Versa Dynamic with a very short 3" arm placed just above the platter. The short arm gave big problems with wow, as the pivot point was way above the surface of the platter.
The "sled" has just one hole beneathe the fastening of the silicone tube. Internally there is a thin cavity to distribute the airflow all along the surface. The bearing rod is precision steel approx 22 mm external diameter, and the outer sled has been made to fit this very precisely. In fact is is allmost impossible to move it without any air-pressure.
All parts except the cabonfiber and the bruyere housing for the cartridge has been made by my brother who is a precsion mecanics and has the machines to tool aluminium, steel and such things (I just do electronics and speakers!).
I plan to fit the armlift with a motordrive and make some kind of stopping mechanism to lift it when it reaches the endgroove. Another mod is to increase the mass with leadweights so it will fit better with my Ruby.
Regards from Denmark,
The two tube construction is quite clever (if I have to say it myself). The top clamp on the base can be loosened which makes it possible to twist the arms to change the azimuth. You can also change the lengt of the arm this way.
Each tube is made with two carbonfiber tubes with a thin layer of paper between them. This makes it much easer to get the thin internal cables through the tubes and gives some kind of damping. The inner tube is filled with cotton to hold the cabeling tight.
Air pressure comes from a big Wisa pump. This is a double chamber pump and very efficient. The pump as well as a big air "capacitor" (a big plastic bottle) are placed in another room and conneted with a 30 feet hose through the walls into the listening room. Air pressure is quite high as the construction works with pressure rather than flow.
My first TT arm had a bearing rod wiht laser drilled holes. But this gave a lot of problem with noise and lack of stability. The next one was based on the Versa Dynamic with a very short 3" arm placed just above the platter. The short arm gave big problems with wow, as the pivot point was way above the surface of the platter.
The "sled" has just one hole beneathe the fastening of the silicone tube. Internally there is a thin cavity to distribute the airflow all along the surface. The bearing rod is precision steel approx 22 mm external diameter, and the outer sled has been made to fit this very precisely. In fact is is allmost impossible to move it without any air-pressure.
All parts except the cabonfiber and the bruyere housing for the cartridge has been made by my brother who is a precsion mecanics and has the machines to tool aluminium, steel and such things (I just do electronics and speakers!).
I plan to fit the armlift with a motordrive and make some kind of stopping mechanism to lift it when it reaches the endgroove. Another mod is to increase the mass with leadweights so it will fit better with my Ruby.
Regards from Denmark,
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