Following all the hoopla on these little buggers and figured I'll give it a shot.
Just pulled the trigger on 2 of these little beauties on ebay. Figured I'll keep one stock and mod the other so as to do an A-B conparison.
Going to order my parts thru Mouser and was wondering if this inductor would be the correct one:
13R103C Murata Power Solutions Power Inductors
All help will be greatly appreciated:: E-C
Just pulled the trigger on 2 of these little beauties on ebay. Figured I'll keep one stock and mod the other so as to do an A-B conparison.
Going to order my parts thru Mouser and was wondering if this inductor would be the correct one:
13R103C Murata Power Solutions Power Inductors
All help will be greatly appreciated:: E-C
According to the data sheet for the chip, I would say YES, if you are going to primarily use 8ohm speakers.
But maybe someone who is more knowledgable than me might know more/better.
E-C
Completed Modifications
Update to my previous post (#518, Pg 52)...
g) changed tone circuit capacitors (with 1nF, 10nF, 5.6nF and 56nF / 5% bought off eBay) and resistors (20k, 2k2, 10k metal film 0.4W/0.1%) as per post #484, Pg49. Also replaced 430R (marked 100R *2) with wire links.
h) changed pots: volume (50k Dual Log RS 249-9288), bass & treble (100k Dual Log Rapid Electronics 65-1466).
i) still to do (have the diodes 1N5817).
j) changed inductors for 10uH/2.8A (RS 233-5134).
Also changed 1k5 resistor in series with blue LED for 4k3 (an arbitary decison) but led still seems bright! Need to see it in the normal evening low-light viewing conditions. Probably need to measure VOPA voltage and chose value to halve current through LED.
Issues:
1. original control knobs did finally come off with (not so) gentle prising but one tone control spindle broke from the slider inside the pot.
2. The new cermet tone control pots had a larger screw thread so had to enlarge the holes on the faceplate. They also sit slightly forward of original ones which means front faceplate now has slight bow in it (about 1-2mm).
3. Had to drill small hole in plastic see-through bezel (around volume control) to take the small metal positioning lug on the new pot. However, because tone pots were slightly forward, was unable to fully tighten fixing screw on volume pot so the positioning lug does not need to mate with new hole!
4. The original plastic control knobs have longitudinal flutting to secure them to the old pots (which are also flutted). However the new pots had plain spindles. Therefore decided to replace control knobs with some aluminium ones I already had in my spares box.
Must say can really notice the difference on initial listening. Much crisper sound and tone controls definately perform better. Well worth the effort!
Update to my previous post (#518, Pg 52)...
g) changed tone circuit capacitors (with 1nF, 10nF, 5.6nF and 56nF / 5% bought off eBay) and resistors (20k, 2k2, 10k metal film 0.4W/0.1%) as per post #484, Pg49. Also replaced 430R (marked 100R *2) with wire links.
h) changed pots: volume (50k Dual Log RS 249-9288), bass & treble (100k Dual Log Rapid Electronics 65-1466).
i) still to do (have the diodes 1N5817).
j) changed inductors for 10uH/2.8A (RS 233-5134).
Also changed 1k5 resistor in series with blue LED for 4k3 (an arbitary decison) but led still seems bright! Need to see it in the normal evening low-light viewing conditions. Probably need to measure VOPA voltage and chose value to halve current through LED.
Issues:
1. original control knobs did finally come off with (not so) gentle prising but one tone control spindle broke from the slider inside the pot.
2. The new cermet tone control pots had a larger screw thread so had to enlarge the holes on the faceplate. They also sit slightly forward of original ones which means front faceplate now has slight bow in it (about 1-2mm).
3. Had to drill small hole in plastic see-through bezel (around volume control) to take the small metal positioning lug on the new pot. However, because tone pots were slightly forward, was unable to fully tighten fixing screw on volume pot so the positioning lug does not need to mate with new hole!
4. The original plastic control knobs have longitudinal flutting to secure them to the old pots (which are also flutted). However the new pots had plain spindles. Therefore decided to replace control knobs with some aluminium ones I already had in my spares box.
Must say can really notice the difference on initial listening. Much crisper sound and tone controls definately perform better. Well worth the effort!
Hello
I'm new to the forum. At first I beg your pardon for my english.
I have bought an Lepai TA2020 and now I would like to pimp it.
I have read something about the bias. I measure 0,1 and 0,2V bias. I think that is OK but for interest reason how can I calibrate it?
The power on plop ist very disturbing and I think that my speakers don't like it.
I figured out an easy way to build a delay.
You need only 2x4148, 1x220uF, 1x1k
I attach my drawing with mod.
In LTSpice it works fine.
I'm new to the forum. At first I beg your pardon for my english.
I have bought an Lepai TA2020 and now I would like to pimp it.
I have read something about the bias. I measure 0,1 and 0,2V bias. I think that is OK but for interest reason how can I calibrate it?
The power on plop ist very disturbing and I think that my speakers don't like it.
I figured out an easy way to build a delay.
You need only 2x4148, 1x220uF, 1x1k
I attach my drawing with mod.
In LTSpice it works fine.
Attachments
Hi all, i've a question...
i tried to tweak my lepai T-amp...for now i only changed the operational with a Ne5532P... now the amp sounds very smooth... too smoth...is impossible, the gain is too low!!! Why this problem? i tried to put back the old op-amp and the sound was good and loud again... If we change the op-amp or we bypass can we use the lepai with a low signal source like ipod nano?? or we need a preamplifier??. thanks
i tried to tweak my lepai T-amp...for now i only changed the operational with a Ne5532P... now the amp sounds very smooth... too smoth...is impossible, the gain is too low!!! Why this problem? i tried to put back the old op-amp and the sound was good and loud again... If we change the op-amp or we bypass can we use the lepai with a low signal source like ipod nano?? or we need a preamplifier??. thanks
Bridge
Can this amplifier be bridged? I just plan on running one 6 X 9 (4ohm) 2 way speaker, rated at 60 watts rms...
Thanks in advance,
Nicholas G.
nige838@gmail.com
Can this amplifier be bridged? I just plan on running one 6 X 9 (4ohm) 2 way speaker, rated at 60 watts rms...
Thanks in advance,
Nicholas G.
nige838@gmail.com
I got the lepai amp too. I like it though I'd definetly say its a bit harsh.
Now is there any seller on fleabay who will combine ship them. Like like it costs 10 bucks to ship one. But if you cram 5-6 in 1 box, that can ship for 15. The seller I got my 1 from seems to want to charge 9 bucks for shipping each if I buy 5.
Thanks.
Srinath.
Now is there any seller on fleabay who will combine ship them. Like like it costs 10 bucks to ship one. But if you cram 5-6 in 1 box, that can ship for 15. The seller I got my 1 from seems to want to charge 9 bucks for shipping each if I buy 5.
Thanks.
Srinath.
Maybe you missed this one
I'm playing with some of these Lepai for some friends. If in the stock form they sound good, after a couple of little mods the improving is really stunning.
Please allow a burn in period (around 100 hours) for the best sound (the bass become fuller and warmer).
About bypassing opamp and tone controls:
-replace first input capacitors with some good film cap (2,2uF up to 4,7uF: the bigger the capacitor the bigger the 'bump' when switching on the amp);
-replace input resistors with 20/22k;
-connect one side of the new input capacitors with one side of new input resistors.
ET VOILA'.
Attached Thumbnails
Lepai T-Amp with TA2020-inp1.jpg #266
I'm playing with some of these Lepai for some friends. If in the stock form they sound good, after a couple of little mods the improving is really stunning.
Please allow a burn in period (around 100 hours) for the best sound (the bass become fuller and warmer).
About bypassing opamp and tone controls:
-replace first input capacitors with some good film cap (2,2uF up to 4,7uF: the bigger the capacitor the bigger the 'bump' when switching on the amp);
-replace input resistors with 20/22k;
-connect one side of the new input capacitors with one side of new input resistors.
ET VOILA'.
Attached Thumbnails
Lepai T-Amp with TA2020-inp1.jpg #266
I have a few questions about the Lepai TA2020 (the version with the blue LED).
This first question might seem obvious, but I'm asking just to be sure: What position would I turn the bass and treble dials in order to have the Lepai sound like they were being bypassed? I assume the answer is straight up, as in 12 o'clock... but is that really right?
Also: how does the Lepai TA2020 compare to the Topping TP20 that Arjen is selling on eBay?
I lack the vision needed to monify one of these, so I'm looking for the best sounding option out of the box that will last. I'm starting to get crackles out of my Lepai after less than a year (I think the connector for the power supply is the problem). I realize this is the DIY forum, so I hope you don't mind helping me find a non-DIY option, but you folks seem to be the experts on these amps by a wide margin!
This first question might seem obvious, but I'm asking just to be sure: What position would I turn the bass and treble dials in order to have the Lepai sound like they were being bypassed? I assume the answer is straight up, as in 12 o'clock... but is that really right?
Also: how does the Lepai TA2020 compare to the Topping TP20 that Arjen is selling on eBay?
I lack the vision needed to monify one of these, so I'm looking for the best sounding option out of the box that will last. I'm starting to get crackles out of my Lepai after less than a year (I think the connector for the power supply is the problem). I realize this is the DIY forum, so I hope you don't mind helping me find a non-DIY option, but you folks seem to be the experts on these amps by a wide margin!
I opened my lepai from the back. The front has one screw that wont come out, so I didn't get the front off. Now the IC is glued to the base with that white glue. Scrape it and unscrew the board form the base, and take the front off and its gonna pop right out. Sit it on a metal plate so The IC is touching the metal and run it and figure out what is crackling.
I dunno the TP20 I'll check. That's all I know, someone else may provide you the answer though.
Oh, I think 12 o clock will have 0 effect on bass and treble ...
Cool.
Srinath.
I dunno the TP20 I'll check. That's all I know, someone else may provide you the answer though.
Oh, I think 12 o clock will have 0 effect on bass and treble ...
Cool.
Srinath.
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