It appears to me that the holes are the result of the lacquer sinking in to the pores of the wood. At this point I would recommend sanding back to try to level the finish and then applying more lacquer. You may have to do this a few times to fill the pores with lacquer and level the finish. The alternative is to remove the lacquer completely and fill the pores with a pore filler and then apply the lacquer.
Earl
Earl
Might be some issues with thin veneers! Not too sure but maybe related to glues coming up to the suface, by small voids, saturation, or not cleaning up properly etc. IMO thick veneers/solid lumber have better sense of grain depth and are suited to oil finishes. Modern poly finishes are faster, safer an are used by lower cost concerned companies. But can't compare in looks and long lasting preservation of fine furniture or other wood products.
Good point. Trouble is I'm not sure really.
We have some satellite speakers hand turned from solid wood, they are oiled by the craftsman I believe, and look great.
The subwoofer needs to complement the satellite speakers. It's made from 25mm marine ply veneered.
The choice of real wood and veneer for both speakers can be anything from about half a dozen or so woods.
I suppose the satellites could be lacquered if that's what the sub will need, but they do look lovely with oil.
We have some satellite speakers hand turned from solid wood, they are oiled by the craftsman I believe, and look great.
The subwoofer needs to complement the satellite speakers. It's made from 25mm marine ply veneered.
The choice of real wood and veneer for both speakers can be anything from about half a dozen or so woods.
I suppose the satellites could be lacquered if that's what the sub will need, but they do look lovely with oil.
Go with an oil then...
Oils are maintainable/ repairable.
Offer reasonable protection.
Oils can easily leave varying degrees of the grain texture showing. Looks like wood instead of laminate (as Pinkmouse would say).
Oils aren't that good against UV... but in GB who cares?
Does the grain still show on your satellites?
Oils are maintainable/ repairable.
Offer reasonable protection.
Oils can easily leave varying degrees of the grain texture showing. Looks like wood instead of laminate (as Pinkmouse would say).
Oils aren't that good against UV... but in GB who cares?
Does the grain still show on your satellites?
I recomend the copious application of lacquer and then careful sanding. Sand lighty between every coat. At the very least it will give you a good idea of how dry your coat is. Most importantly, have patience. Theres not much you can mess up that you cant fix with wood. Give it a whole day or more to dry between coats and make sure its dry in the room your drying in. I've had urethanes and varnishes that take more than a whole day to dry well.
poobah said:
It is important that it looks like real wood not laminate.
Hopefully this gives you some idea about the grain.
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Does oil need redoing every so often? What oil should I use?
Yes oil would need to be reapplied occassionally. If that is the route you want to go I recommend that you remove the lacquer, then one coat of boiled linseed oil and then wipe on a few coats of oil based polyurethane thinned 50/50 with mineral spirits.
If it were me I would stick with the lacquer at this point.
Earl
If it were me I would stick with the lacquer at this point.
Earl
Richie,
what I should have said is the grain still 3D. or has it been filled smooth.
That definately looks oiled.
And don't put a polymer over oil. Once oil... always oil.
As far as what type of oil... see what the other Brits have to say... only so you can buy the damn stuff! Tung and Linseed are good.
what I should have said is the grain still 3D. or has it been filled smooth.
That definately looks oiled.
And don't put a polymer over oil. Once oil... always oil.
As far as what type of oil... see what the other Brits have to say... only so you can buy the damn stuff! Tung and Linseed are good.
So Al, what would you recommend for fine speakers? Danish oil sounds a bit 'unrefined' - is that right of me to think that?
Also bear in mind that end users might not keep up the oil treatment properly or have any skills in applying it, so a slight cosmetic advantage could be forgone for the sake of longeivity or ease of application.
Also bear in mind that end users might not keep up the oil treatment properly or have any skills in applying it, so a slight cosmetic advantage could be forgone for the sake of longeivity or ease of application.
For touching up and recoating, Danish or teak oils would be fine, just avoid pure or boiled linseed oil as it's a bit thicker and isn't quite so user friendly for your average punter. Unless the speakers are really abused, (high temperatures, direct sunlight), you should only need to re-oil every year or so. You could even chuck in a 20ml bottle, that should do for a couple of applications, will cost you pennies, and show what a caring company you are. 
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