Al, let me to afford a few notices : how do you can fit this PCB ? Only by devices pins ? It is wrong, remember that there are heavy resistors and " fat " long and heavy wires. If you take assembled amp to the car, after one way to your friend, all will be falling down. Better is fit this PCB by screws and distance pad to the heatsink in parallel with base, space inside of amp will be better used. Because this part will be relatively far from PS, is good give at this PCB bypass film cap from rail to ground ( amp will be more stabil. 
Hi Pavel
This is just a "place holder" example of the output board, I won't spend time fine tuning it until we know if there is enough demand to go ahead with production. I'm busy enough as it is.
Shinobiwan,
The boards are being made in the US, even with delivery it is working out far cheaper than getting them made over here.
Yes, for true dual mono operation, you will need 6 of each board. But if you want to economise, you should be able to get away with only 3 PSUs.
Hopefully, if demand gets going, we should be able to place an order in a week or so, with production taking 28 days. Prices will vary as per quantity, but should be quite reasonable. I have spec-ced a heavy board, with 2oz copper, and have had good reports of the maker, so I think you will be pleased.
This is just a "place holder" example of the output board, I won't spend time fine tuning it until we know if there is enough demand to go ahead with production. I'm busy enough as it is.
Shinobiwan,
The boards are being made in the US, even with delivery it is working out far cheaper than getting them made over here.
Yes, for true dual mono operation, you will need 6 of each board. But if you want to economise, you should be able to get away with only 3 PSUs.
Hopefully, if demand gets going, we should be able to place an order in a week or so, with production taking 28 days. Prices will vary as per quantity, but should be quite reasonable. I have spec-ced a heavy board, with 2oz copper, and have had good reports of the maker, so I think you will be pleased.
pinkmouse said:
Stay calm, the ordering and payment is now in Mark's much more professional hands.
If this doesn't go through, I don't think I'll be able to show my face here again
Want these bad though PM, been watching this thread with great interest from about page 30.
Do you have Mark's email addy so I can sort something out with him?
Cheers,
Ant
to buy or to built
For those of you that have built 2 channels of KSA 50, how much does it cost approximately? I'm talking about excluding minimum wage labour cost and using just enough heatsinks and non-exotic parts and without fans. I ask because I have seen KSA 50 selling for about $900 on eBay and I wanted to get some kind of cost reference and comparison.
For those of you that have built 2 channels of KSA 50, how much does it cost approximately? I'm talking about excluding minimum wage labour cost and using just enough heatsinks and non-exotic parts and without fans. I ask because I have seen KSA 50 selling for about $900 on eBay and I wanted to get some kind of cost reference and comparison.
Re: to buy or to built
If cost is an issue i'd buy a KSA50 on Ebay and refurbish it.
You will not need to do all the labor, and do not risk a failure.
A well looked after original KSA50 will still be worth cold hard cash in 10 to 15, DIY amplifiers are write-offs.
Personally, i do not give a hoot about diy costs versus 2nd hand.
I enjoy my diy builds 10 times more than off the shelf items, even if it costs me more.
I doubt that performance of an original KSA50 equals some of the KSA's under construction by a number here.
fcel said:
If cost is an issue i'd buy a KSA50 on Ebay and refurbish it.
You will not need to do all the labor, and do not risk a failure.
A well looked after original KSA50 will still be worth cold hard cash in 10 to 15, DIY amplifiers are write-offs.
Personally, i do not give a hoot about diy costs versus 2nd hand.
I enjoy my diy builds 10 times more than off the shelf items, even if it costs me more.
I doubt that performance of an original KSA50 equals some of the KSA's under construction by a number here.
Shinobiwan,
I have not heard Rod's design, but I'm sure it's very good. However, the Krells are class A, and so have a major advantage to start. The class A output power is less, at around 50W, but because of the sound design of the circuit, it can cope easily with dificult or dynamic loads, making it sound much more powerful.
It easily beats my 120W Arcam Alpha 10 amp, using Exicon mosfets, in sound quality, and the Arcam is a very good amp.
Jacco, have you got your order for boards in yet?
I have not heard Rod's design, but I'm sure it's very good. However, the Krells are class A, and so have a major advantage to start. The class A output power is less, at around 50W, but because of the sound design of the circuit, it can cope easily with dificult or dynamic loads, making it sound much more powerful.
It easily beats my 120W Arcam Alpha 10 amp, using Exicon mosfets, in sound quality, and the Arcam is a very good amp.
Jacco, have you got your order for boards in yet?
Ok,
So i now have 2 channels up and running (after fixing a short, a bit of loose solder!)...
One at low bias the other at high bias....
Together the amps sound fantastic! Absolutely blown away by the sound... i love it It likes home theatre too and works very very well
The toroids are excellent, i recommend Tortech in Sydney here for these, custom made - weren't the cheapest but are dead silent and very well built
Time for more listening
Aaron
So i now have 2 channels up and running (after fixing a short, a bit of loose solder!)...
One at low bias the other at high bias....
Together the amps sound fantastic! Absolutely blown away by the sound... i love it
It likes home theatre too and works very very well The toroids are excellent, i recommend Tortech in Sydney here for these, custom made - weren't the cheapest but are dead silent and very well built
Time for more listening
Aaron
pinkmouse said:Shinobiwan,
I have not heard Rod's design, but I'm sure it's very good. However, the Krells are class A, and so have a major advantage to start. The class A output power is less, at around 50W, but because of the sound design of the circuit, it can cope easily with dificult or dynamic loads, making it sound much more powerful.
It easily beats my 120W Arcam Alpha 10 amp, using Exicon mosfets, in sound quality, and the Arcam is a very good amp.
Jacco, have you got your order for boards in yet?
As I thought. I actually use Exicon's in the P101's I have here instead of the Hitachi/Renesas parts. Nice quality but not a Krell beater.
Al, we also need to consolidate the information regarding your implementation of the KSA50 mkII. Things like a components required, suggested values, lead pitch, component designations, maybe a construction guide will help us less able ones?
If your interested in demoing the P101 I have a couple of fully constructed boards I could send you for evaluation.