Hi Joey,
have you got DC blocking caps in your source?
If so, you need to allow for two caps in series.
A 2.2uF could be used at the input of the Klone, but a 10uF at the output of the source is also required if you are feeding any other amplifiers from the same source. These two will combine to give an effective 1.8uF and for a 23k input impedance gives an RC timeconstant of 41mS (3.8Hz). This is a bit too close to the audio pass band for a bass speaker or wideband speaker.
Aim for 80mS to 100mS at the input. This can almost be achieved by using 4.7uF pp as a DC blocker (10uF+4.7uF into 23k>=74mS, 2.2Hz).
If the source is fitted with anything less than 10uF, then the bass will be crippled into a low input impedance amplifier.
have you got DC blocking caps in your source?
If so, you need to allow for two caps in series.
A 2.2uF could be used at the input of the Klone, but a 10uF at the output of the source is also required if you are feeding any other amplifiers from the same source. These two will combine to give an effective 1.8uF and for a 23k input impedance gives an RC timeconstant of 41mS (3.8Hz). This is a bit too close to the audio pass band for a bass speaker or wideband speaker.
Aim for 80mS to 100mS at the input. This can almost be achieved by using 4.7uF pp as a DC blocker (10uF+4.7uF into 23k>=74mS, 2.2Hz).
If the source is fitted with anything less than 10uF, then the bass will be crippled into a low input impedance amplifier.
Hi Av,
Quad what? amps, speakers, valve, transistor, quasi, complimentary?
Quad what? amps, speakers, valve, transistor, quasi, complimentary?
are you sure? the KSA50 and it's bigger ClassA brothers are reputed to have exemplary low bass. Our Klone should be just as good if not better. Particularly if no area is skimped in the build.
what are you using for Miller comp cap (c105 delta, c10 pink)?
Andrew
The c105 is a 33pf silver mica and the input is 680pf poly styrene (couldnt find the 47pf at the time of ordering) Do you think a higher value will shift it enough to make a difference on top?
I see no amplitude drop at the 50khz limit but the leading edge is getting rounded out their (10khz looks excellent)
The quad question is the Quad electrostatic speaker, and the bass is nice and tight on these at their limit.
I'm trying to post some pic's (IE. as in never done that before,total amateur for sure) Is their a site that would help explain to me?
On my apple the pic IMG0504.jpg for example
David
The c105 is a 33pf silver mica and the input is 680pf poly styrene (couldnt find the 47pf at the time of ordering) Do you think a higher value will shift it enough to make a difference on top?
I see no amplitude drop at the 50khz limit but the leading edge is getting rounded out their (10khz looks excellent)
The quad question is the Quad electrostatic speaker, and the bass is nice and tight on these at their limit.
I'm trying to post some pic's (IE. as in never done that before,total amateur for sure) Is their a site that would help explain to me?
On my apple the pic IMG0504.jpg for example
David
will it add much wiring complexity if i regulate the front end?
i am considering using a capacitance multiplier power supply, however, i am also in a position to acquire a large number(24) of 4-pole 15,000uF electrolytics. i wanted to use 10 per channel(5 per rail) and save the remaining 4 for a gainclone project. i have read a bit about 4-poles and they appear to be a superior option to a regular old pair of huge 2-pole electros, even though they look cooler. much lower ESR, ESL, and allows the caps to charge and drain more quickly. this is supposed to result in a faster power supply, my question is, is ultimate PSU speed as much a factor in class A as it is in AB?
my amp will probably never see speakers like yours for a long time...it will be driving a pair of Karlson K15 cabinets loaded with high-sensitivity 15" coaxials. maybe i'll have ESLs one day.
also, is there a convenient way to switch the amp to Class AB for some more power...say, for party situations?
i am considering using a capacitance multiplier power supply, however, i am also in a position to acquire a large number(24) of 4-pole 15,000uF electrolytics. i wanted to use 10 per channel(5 per rail) and save the remaining 4 for a gainclone project. i have read a bit about 4-poles and they appear to be a superior option to a regular old pair of huge 2-pole electros, even though they look cooler. much lower ESR, ESL, and allows the caps to charge and drain more quickly. this is supposed to result in a faster power supply, my question is, is ultimate PSU speed as much a factor in class A as it is in AB?
my amp will probably never see speakers like yours for a long time...it will be driving a pair of Karlson K15 cabinets loaded with high-sensitivity 15" coaxials. maybe i'll have ESLs one day.
also, is there a convenient way to switch the amp to Class AB for some more power...say, for party situations?
Hi Pink,
the Klone is not built yet.
Part of the problem being lack of testing & development on the regulator PCBs I bought.
Thorough testing revealed excessive oscillation and noise and ripple breakthrough that made performance worse than a chip regulator costing just 1% of the price.
I spent a long time trying to re-jig the circuit board to improve performance but never managed an adequate performance. I will return to that project, someday.
Maybe an initial build on common supplies, leaving room for additional regulators later.
the Klone is not built yet.
Part of the problem being lack of testing & development on the regulator PCBs I bought.
Thorough testing revealed excessive oscillation and noise and ripple breakthrough that made performance worse than a chip regulator costing just 1% of the price.
I spent a long time trying to re-jig the circuit board to improve performance but never managed an adequate performance. I will return to that project, someday.
Maybe an initial build on common supplies, leaving room for additional regulators later.
Re: Advice required.
Hi Jozua.
Leave it plugged in?
Seriously, I don't see why you would want to run it with no inputs connected, and as with any power amp, it's always best to turn it off before you change any connections. Remember, if you didn't use the I/V limiting, then you will blow the amp up if you short the outputs...
Jozua said:
Hi Jozua.
Leave it plugged in?
Seriously, I don't see why you would want to run it with no inputs connected, and as with any power amp, it's always best to turn it off before you change any connections. Remember, if you didn't use the I/V limiting, then you will blow the amp up if you short the outputs...
Internal layout?
Jozua,
There are a number of options, here are a couple...#1 being the preferable solution
1) The hum is probably induced in the input through inductive or capacitive coupling, using shielded cables, routed away from any mains cables, transformers etc and careful star grounding should reduce or hopefully remove the problem.
2) Depending on your pre-amp you could add a resistor to ground at the input of the amp, the lower the value, the more the signal will be shunted to ground, i.e. if your preamp can drive a 1k load 'nicely' use a 1.1k resistor
HTH
Stuart
Jozua,
There are a number of options, here are a couple...#1 being the preferable solution
1) The hum is probably induced in the input through inductive or capacitive coupling, using shielded cables, routed away from any mains cables, transformers etc and careful star grounding should reduce or hopefully remove the problem.
2) Depending on your pre-amp you could add a resistor to ground at the input of the amp, the lower the value, the more the signal will be shunted to ground, i.e. if your preamp can drive a 1k load 'nicely' use a 1.1k resistor
HTH
Stuart
sure...
...but if he wants less hum when it is disconnected, he needs to either:
a) remove the hum by stopping it's injection and amplification, definitely the best answer if workable...
b) reduce the hum by giving the input a lower impedance to ground. IIRC The input impedance of the amp is approx 20k, a 1k shunt to ground should reduce the noise by 13db, but it is predicated on the pre-amp being able to drive a 1k load...it's not like he's going to remove the shunt when it's time to reconnect...
HTH
Stuart
...but if he wants less hum when it is disconnected, he needs to either:
a) remove the hum by stopping it's injection and amplification, definitely the best answer if workable...
b) reduce the hum by giving the input a lower impedance to ground. IIRC The input impedance of the amp is approx 20k, a 1k shunt to ground should reduce the noise by 13db, but it is predicated on the pre-amp being able to drive a 1k load...it's not like he's going to remove the shunt when it's time to reconnect...
HTH
Stuart
Pinkmouse KSA 50 Schematic
I just picked up a set of KSA50 Driver/main boards by the Mouse. Jeez man these are great quality!
They are dated 12/5/05. I'm poking around post #1700 there was still some tweaking and I was wondering where I could find the proper schematic and bill of materials to match these boards? I am currently using the wiki but it is very slow when I use it. Could someone point me or link me?
gaborlela, it was very nice to meet you and thank you! Cheers to the DIY as I just met a new audio enthusiast friend!
Cheers,
Shawn.
I just picked up a set of KSA50 Driver/main boards by the Mouse. Jeez man these are great quality!
They are dated 12/5/05. I'm poking around post #1700 there was still some tweaking and I was wondering where I could find the proper schematic and bill of materials to match these boards? I am currently using the wiki but it is very slow when I use it. Could someone point me or link me?gaborbela said:
gaborlela, it was very nice to meet you and thank you! Cheers to the DIY as I just met a new audio enthusiast friend!
Cheers,
Shawn.
Attachments
Use Jan's parts list which was generated for his pcb. Just drop all the current limit nonsense. His list is the closest to the original values of parts used by Krell.
Jan's site is www.deltaaudio.com
Mark
Jan's site is www.deltaaudio.com
Mark