Kenwood Kac-819 won't power up!

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I thought I already said I had done that... I don't see why anything would have changed. I have a freshly recharged and verified Car battery and Crutchfield had me do the same thing your asking.

I had 11.67 on the power terminal and 11.68 on the remote terminal with the radio on. We also verified continuity with the ground.

It is definitely something internal on the amp.

What else should I test now?
 
You'll need to post the DC voltage on all of the pins of the UPC494. Place the black meter probe on the amplifier's ground terminal. Place the red meter probe on the point where you need to measure the voltage.
http://www.bcae1.com/temp/pstl594pinnumbers01.gif

Pin 1:
Pin 2:
Pin 3:
Pin 4:
Pin 5:
Pin 6:
Pin 7:
Pin 8:
Pin 9:
Pin 10:
Pin 11:
Pin 12:
Pin 13:
Pin 14:
Pin 15:
Pin 16:
 
WOW!!!!!

I don't know what I did, but hooking it up the same way I always have done, it works now!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I had everything set up for testing the UPC494, but I turned my engine on and I put the black probe to the ground terminal's bottom side (Because the amp is upside down) and I got nothing from each prong on the UPC494 so I put the red to the power terminal and nothing...? So turned the car off and flipped the amp right side up and turned the car back on... Blue Power Light!!!!!!!!!! Stayed on too!!!! I'm scared though that something will happen as soon as I hook it up to stay in the trunk.... I tested the speakers and rca's connected and it works! But I need to disconnect it all so I can mount the amp on the back of box (Making sure to also undo the Negative battery terminal again before messing with anything!)

Fingers crossed it will keep working! Again I don't know what changed this time! But along with the Blue Light, the power wire has just over 12 volts and the remote has 11.97 volts!
 
Ok so here's the new scoop... A little oops on my part! First off though the Radio Shacks in lin fuse holders are crap! The fuse had come out almost all the way because it didn't pinch the fuse legs tight so I clamped those down tight... Then my Amp powered up! But here is my bad: I had the Gain all the way up from my old Alpine head unit in my old car! So as soon as I would mess with the Sub level on the HU, the Amp would kick off! So those 2 combined; bad fuse holder and full gain is why my amp would not stay on or it would kick off right away!

Easy fixes that I should have looked for in the first place! I did always check the fuses but the in line was always loose... But all seems good for now. We'll see once I up the gain till it sounds good, hopefully it won't kick off the amp!

Thank you again for the help!
 
I had checked them. They had voltage when the fuse was tight. But like I said my gain on my amp was all the way up! So it would turn on for second but kept turning off. But then I was told with my new HU u have to have the gain all the way down and move it up to choice.

"I had 11.67 on the power terminal and 11.68 on the remote terminal with the radio on. We also verified continuity with the ground."

So my power was always good up to the amp (Except a few times and that was the loose fuse near the battery). But the gain to high wouldn't allow it power on or adjust the sub level from the HU.
 
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