Well,
i finally got some time to rig in the morel MDT29 tweeters last night. keep in mind that i have never heard stock 104/2. so, i just compared to my KEF Calinda.
well, there's a very good reason why terry only recommends the mdt29. it's literally the only thing that would fit. and it doesn't really fit. let me explain.
the T33 tweeter fits right between the two B110 midrange enclosures. it's held in place by a wooden plate on a track and a pressure bolt. anything with a magnet structure wider than 68mm will not fit as it has to wedged between the two enclosures. the height can not be taller than something like 26mm.
as it stands, the morel is 1mm too high, so the back of the magnet hits the metal thread on the wooden plate. so, i slid the plate over until the thread hit the magnet. used mounting double stick tape (heavy duty and thick). the tweeter won't budge.
i used alligator clips to listen. i can't solder, because once i do, i can not return the tweeters if i decide i don't like them.
so, now for the listening...
it was quickly apparent that my McIntosh MC60 tube amps did not have enough current to maintain decent dampening of the woofers on the 4 ohm tap. coupled with the fact that the 8ohm morels would be 3db down on the 4ohm tap, i quickly hooked the speakers up on the 8 ohm tap. ahhh, much better!
the morels are very smooth. a bit compressed sounding, but i think they will open up once they get broken in. they are not as bright nor as forward as the T27 in my Calindas. but the morels are extended and blend nicely with the B110 mids. are they a match made in heaven? no, mainly because the morels are 89db at 8ohm. i believe they are fairly closely matched to the other drivers, but they could stand another 1-2 db of sensitivity. still, compared to the comments ive heard for KEF's recommended replacement tweeter, the morels are 60% cheaper and much smoother.
so, where does that leave me? i have to listen more, but i am thinking of trying some 4 ohm 93.5db sensitive Vifa DX25TG05. i'm waiting to hear from madisound what the width is. it is not specified in the spec sheet. if it's more than 68mm, NO tweeter will fit. then i will just live with the morels. but the vifa DX25TG05 specs sound very close to the T33B.
other issues i noticed is that one of the mids distorts a little. not in a blown way, but in a voice coil rubbing way. it's minor. don't you KEF guys turn the drivers upside down to recenter the VC?
see ya,
Robby
i finally got some time to rig in the morel MDT29 tweeters last night. keep in mind that i have never heard stock 104/2. so, i just compared to my KEF Calinda.
well, there's a very good reason why terry only recommends the mdt29. it's literally the only thing that would fit. and it doesn't really fit. let me explain.
the T33 tweeter fits right between the two B110 midrange enclosures. it's held in place by a wooden plate on a track and a pressure bolt. anything with a magnet structure wider than 68mm will not fit as it has to wedged between the two enclosures. the height can not be taller than something like 26mm.
as it stands, the morel is 1mm too high, so the back of the magnet hits the metal thread on the wooden plate. so, i slid the plate over until the thread hit the magnet. used mounting double stick tape (heavy duty and thick). the tweeter won't budge.
i used alligator clips to listen. i can't solder, because once i do, i can not return the tweeters if i decide i don't like them.
so, now for the listening...
it was quickly apparent that my McIntosh MC60 tube amps did not have enough current to maintain decent dampening of the woofers on the 4 ohm tap. coupled with the fact that the 8ohm morels would be 3db down on the 4ohm tap, i quickly hooked the speakers up on the 8 ohm tap. ahhh, much better!
the morels are very smooth. a bit compressed sounding, but i think they will open up once they get broken in. they are not as bright nor as forward as the T27 in my Calindas. but the morels are extended and blend nicely with the B110 mids. are they a match made in heaven? no, mainly because the morels are 89db at 8ohm. i believe they are fairly closely matched to the other drivers, but they could stand another 1-2 db of sensitivity. still, compared to the comments ive heard for KEF's recommended replacement tweeter, the morels are 60% cheaper and much smoother.
so, where does that leave me? i have to listen more, but i am thinking of trying some 4 ohm 93.5db sensitive Vifa DX25TG05. i'm waiting to hear from madisound what the width is. it is not specified in the spec sheet. if it's more than 68mm, NO tweeter will fit. then i will just live with the morels. but the vifa DX25TG05 specs sound very close to the T33B.
other issues i noticed is that one of the mids distorts a little. not in a blown way, but in a voice coil rubbing way. it's minor. don't you KEF guys turn the drivers upside down to recenter the VC?
see ya,
Robby
Ferrofluid Ungunkified
This is an old thread, but I want to say a big thankyou to everyone in it!
My second-hand Monitor Audio R300 speakers had a dead tweeter. Since it was reading 7 ohms, I took it apart. The magnet came away leaving the metal voice coil behind. When I saw the solid brown gunk, I thought "Is that the ferrofluid stuff?" and googled to here.
This thread then gave me the courage to run a thin toothpick round the goo in the gap a few times, which kinda stirred and ungooed it. I then cleaned the smears off with a dry cloth. Clipped it back together, and it all works now! Amazingly I didn't break anything.
Shall look in to your forum again. It looks fun. Best Regards, Steve.
This is an old thread, but I want to say a big thankyou to everyone in it!
My second-hand Monitor Audio R300 speakers had a dead tweeter. Since it was reading 7 ohms, I took it apart. The magnet came away leaving the metal voice coil behind. When I saw the solid brown gunk, I thought "Is that the ferrofluid stuff?" and googled to here.
This thread then gave me the courage to run a thin toothpick round the goo in the gap a few times, which kinda stirred and ungooed it. I then cleaned the smears off with a dry cloth. Clipped it back together, and it all works now! Amazingly I didn't break anything.
Shall look in to your forum again. It looks fun. Best Regards, Steve.
For others looking to replace a T33:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=175819
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=175819
Captain's Log: Supplemental... LOL
I spoke too soon on the tweeter fix. It was still well down on the output of the other when I gave it some welly the next day.
This time cleaned all the gunk out of the magnet with WD40, a toothpick and lots of tissues. Then cleaned the WD40 out with aftershave and dried it out. I gently cleaned the voice coil with a tissue too.
It now works great, and I'll just not hammer it too hard while I decide whether to get some more ferrofluid. It's curious that the other tweeter is fine, but they do say: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."
I spoke too soon on the tweeter fix. It was still well down on the output of the other when I gave it some welly the next day.
This time cleaned all the gunk out of the magnet with WD40, a toothpick and lots of tissues. Then cleaned the WD40 out with aftershave and dried it out. I gently cleaned the voice coil with a tissue too.
It now works great, and I'll just not hammer it too hard while I decide whether to get some more ferrofluid. It's curious that the other tweeter is fine, but they do say: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."
Hi, I am the proud owner of an antique pair of C80s - I bought them 2 weeks ago, and the tweeters were not working. Having searched high and low for a replacement, I found that 4 Ohm units are like hen's teeth, and so decided that some form of maintenance of the current units might bear more fruit. So, I had a go. I removed the units, and gently peeled back the foam, and the sealing layer to reveal the 'gap' - and sure enough - plenty of dark brown guey material in there. So, I took a non-magnetic applicator (in my case the stem of a plastic poppy), dipped that in some fairly heavy oil, and put a tiny drop on both side of the unit. I did this to both T33s. No great change to start with, but 24 hours on, the C80s are a whole deal brighter. The thinking is that if anything is left of the ferro, then that will be able to quietly make its way back to where it should be, and the gummy lumps will gently disperse. I may well end up with brighter tweeters than is ideal, but the result right now is very listenable.
A question: I have a pair of KEF 107's from a friend where the top end is too bright. I was thinking that with the drying out of the ferrofluid in the T33, it would have less damping and therefore more output. Seemed to make sense to me.
But reading this thread it is not clear what exactly you guys experience with the dried-out ferrofluid, apart from statements like 'souds like crap'.
Did any of you also experience a too hot top end?
Jan
But reading this thread it is not clear what exactly you guys experience with the dried-out ferrofluid, apart from statements like 'souds like crap'.
Did any of you also experience a too hot top end?
Jan
check out: Trust your ears... (not the forums) - Audiophile Addicts
I replaced the ferro fluid and they sounded exactly the same. I even did A/B testing since I had a couple pairs of T33's to work with. I ended up replacing them anyway with some Vifa's I found on amazon for about $50 (per pair), though I must have waited 6 months or more for the right ones to come in stock. i think the order was fulfilled by parts express.
definitely sounds better (and less bright and forward) with the Vifa's, so i recommend doing it. I had to remove the flanges and modify the cabinet slightly to get them to fit. Just router out the recess that the tweeter sits in a bit, nothing major. this is for the 104's. so i can't comment in regard to the 107s but i suspect the results will be similar.
I replaced the ferro fluid and they sounded exactly the same. I even did A/B testing since I had a couple pairs of T33's to work with. I ended up replacing them anyway with some Vifa's I found on amazon for about $50 (per pair), though I must have waited 6 months or more for the right ones to come in stock. i think the order was fulfilled by parts express.
definitely sounds better (and less bright and forward) with the Vifa's, so i recommend doing it. I had to remove the flanges and modify the cabinet slightly to get them to fit. Just router out the recess that the tweeter sits in a bit, nothing major. this is for the 104's. so i can't comment in regard to the 107s but i suspect the results will be similar.
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