Oh that's getting better.
I wonder how reflective some tights would be. If I were to start making sausages. After a little thought, I could string the sock flat to the basket during insertion. Then pull the string.
I must first see why they sound different though. The difference won't just polish away.
The eBay R100s look to be going past the usual £200, and they are the wood effect ones.
I might have to let my uni-q spares go, to fund this.
You need that for carpet rolls! Anyway, I agree my first reaction wasn’t the best. And you certainly have to avoid angel hair or any other fibrous stuff getting near the cone, it gets in the magnet gap easily and thus brings you further from home. Stockings are the sh!t indeed, but you could opt for the cheap wonder sponges (melamine foam), they do their job. Alternatively, have a look here: Merford, they sell ‘basotect’ as Flamex.This is what job satisfaction looks like
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/adventures-in-cardioid.142691/#post-1808306
There is many ways to skin a Schroedinger's cat.
Ok. One the issue you face is on it's way.
Now the other: your cab sounding different.
This could be many things at play, from very simple one to impossible to fix.
Have you done a visual inspection of each cabinet ( the sub enclosures) to try to identify difference? Maybe Kef used some material on wall to damp panel, it fall from ungluing and a tweaker got rid of it? It could be a driver motor piece touching something which change freq of resonance of panels? Some physical bridge transmitting structural born resonance somewhere ( missing)?
You will need some special device to investigate ( mic+ driver to excite box won't do by themself). You'll need a contact transducer. Can be done and not to costly though.
I hope it's not a structural cabinet issue as it can be difficult to fix but you should have noticed it, it would be visible from outside i think.
Aside: most members here are good people. We have some cultural differences, professional or educational habits, comes from different backgrounds... and for many of us it happen in a non native language. It may lead to misunderstanding of people's intention. And given our center of interest we are in the boarder of beings weirdos as individuals. Maybe not we but i for sure so... Let's focus on the technical issue and learn things together.
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Here are some R500s, so smaller bass, but the same uni-q
Notice the screw holes, and the pvc tubes. Some tubes flush. Some squashed flush. Some raised. Some missing. There job is actually to take the trim ring. Much like some speaker grills are fitted. The basket has cutouts to miss them. It doesn't happen though. I leveled all mine off.
You can see the magnet is so tight, there are notches for the wires. The holes is quite rough, so sliding in some wadding would be a lot of fun. I see these may show the wadding glued to the back of the tube, where my wadding was stuffed. Also, where the rough holes are grabbing at some that still hangs from them. You can also see the lack of fixings, or room to make a repair once the mdf is ruined by repeatedly replacing the screws.
If we draw our mind back to the uni-q units, the area I would like some wadding, is the hole in the baffle, and just inside. Meaning the driver is in, before I could remove any shoehorn. I don't think kef managed this on the production line. It's just not at that level.
I did put my hand in the top hole, down past the tube at the back, and here I found the shelf/divider under the tube, didn't reach to the back baffle. In these, you see a sloped plank through the bottom hole. In the R900 there is also a slope, but behind it an empty cavity in the drawings. The 900 uses 8" bins, so the top enclosure needs no extra volume claimed from below. They do keep the sloped board though, at about 45 degrees.
This horizontal board and 20? degree board obviously join just back from the tube. This is where my eye falls, when I listen to this noise. It's this board attached to the front baffle, where I'm not getting the same knuckle rapping sound. It's an angle join, which suggests room for ill fitment. I really need to get in there, as I can fix a problem there quite easily.
Some people will be quick to dismiss quality complaints, regarding construction. So here are those drivers again
First, the glue. I would be ashamed.
The baskets are different colours. One is grey, and one golden.
The serial numbers are quite different.
These were sent as a pair, and any question they didn't match, brushed off. I had to buy a third, asking it be from either batch, and it came from a third.
Some might say I'm overly critical, and I will accept they have a different opinion, but they are wrong
Notice the screw holes, and the pvc tubes. Some tubes flush. Some squashed flush. Some raised. Some missing. There job is actually to take the trim ring. Much like some speaker grills are fitted. The basket has cutouts to miss them. It doesn't happen though. I leveled all mine off.
You can see the magnet is so tight, there are notches for the wires. The holes is quite rough, so sliding in some wadding would be a lot of fun. I see these may show the wadding glued to the back of the tube, where my wadding was stuffed. Also, where the rough holes are grabbing at some that still hangs from them. You can also see the lack of fixings, or room to make a repair once the mdf is ruined by repeatedly replacing the screws.
If we draw our mind back to the uni-q units, the area I would like some wadding, is the hole in the baffle, and just inside. Meaning the driver is in, before I could remove any shoehorn. I don't think kef managed this on the production line. It's just not at that level.
I did put my hand in the top hole, down past the tube at the back, and here I found the shelf/divider under the tube, didn't reach to the back baffle. In these, you see a sloped plank through the bottom hole. In the R900 there is also a slope, but behind it an empty cavity in the drawings. The 900 uses 8" bins, so the top enclosure needs no extra volume claimed from below. They do keep the sloped board though, at about 45 degrees.
This horizontal board and 20? degree board obviously join just back from the tube. This is where my eye falls, when I listen to this noise. It's this board attached to the front baffle, where I'm not getting the same knuckle rapping sound. It's an angle join, which suggests room for ill fitment. I really need to get in there, as I can fix a problem there quite easily.
Some people will be quick to dismiss quality complaints, regarding construction. So here are those drivers again
First, the glue. I would be ashamed.
The baskets are different colours. One is grey, and one golden.
The serial numbers are quite different.
These were sent as a pair, and any question they didn't match, brushed off. I had to buy a third, asking it be from either batch, and it came from a third.
Some might say I'm overly critical, and I will accept they have a different opinion, but they are wrong