Trash it is then...thanks for making the company another 500 bucks when this amplifier could have been saved and re-used.
Its like saying "Why buy 30 buck black ink and 30 bucks color ink when I can buy a 65 dollar printer brand new with both inks."....do you even know where those printers end up at?
Its like saying "Why buy 30 buck black ink and 30 bucks color ink when I can buy a 65 dollar printer brand new with both inks."....do you even know where those printers end up at?
If your going to remove SMD parts with a iron you have to use liquid flux for good heat transfer- does wonders. Use a good brand of liquid flux too-Kester for example, not something bought from Radio Shack.
the funny part is it was the one SMD pad that I pulled up. the other 3 were on mosfets. I think I figured out what I was doing wrong. I turned up the heat to 700, and added more solder then moved it around for a couple seconds then gave it a little push with a pick. slid right off without a problem. I went ahead and replaced the other driver transistors, the 8 gate resistors, and a couple output resistors without a problem. I was just being inpatient, and then frustration got the best of me. I have a couple more output resistors to swap out, and try to solder a wire to the one transistor driver. I discovered that tiny hole is attatched to the metal bar that goes in front of them. So I'm going to attempt to attach it there since I don't have thin enough wire for that tiny hole... plus that solder joint on that bar is right there.
Ok so I went back through testing the resistors making sure they were all good. I don't have the power supply fets nor the output fets in yet. R526 and R527 are reading 700 ohm. Which 1 should be 1k and the other 2.37k... any ideas? That's testing across JUST the resistor itself soldered in the board.
I got the driver transistor fixed with a little wire. Also the mosfet pads I pulled up I managed to solder on the top side, and everything appears to be reading correctly from what I've been reading in other threads. except R526 and R527.... I believe I have fixed all of the broken pieces I've been able to find so far other than those 2 resistors. I have also left out the output FETs for now as well until I'm certain everything else is correct. I think I was going to fast with the lower heat. Since I turned it up to 750* I was able to use the plunger to get a majority of the solder off the board without pulling any more pads.
Yeah that's true. Trying to do this stuff 5 years later I realized I'm a little rusty.... :/ my bad. Also Im sorry for freaking out online and wanting to trash it. I realized that would be stupid.
I did enough testing to feel comfortable enough to power it on with a 5 A fuse inline. It stayed powered up for about 10-15 seconds and the fuse popped... everthing is back in the chassis with the fets clamped to the heatsink as I wasn't sure how hot they would get even with no load. When it first powered up the thermal light was on for a split second as well then turned off. Obviously pulling to much current. The output fets are still not in the board. Any ideas?
EDIT: I tried another fuse to possibly check voltages, and the fuse popped instantaneously...
I did enough testing to feel comfortable enough to power it on with a 5 A fuse inline. It stayed powered up for about 10-15 seconds and the fuse popped... everthing is back in the chassis with the fets clamped to the heatsink as I wasn't sure how hot they would get even with no load. When it first powered up the thermal light was on for a split second as well then turned off. Obviously pulling to much current. The output fets are still not in the board. Any ideas?
EDIT: I tried another fuse to possibly check voltages, and the fuse popped instantaneously...
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Ahhh wow... I had a hairline solder bridge. Preamp board in and powered up so far. Everything is on. Now to check some voltages and for heat... if I can find that thread again...
So I can't find this info anywhere when the amp is good and correct everywhere else... the outputs are still out and its powered up. All the voltages I check with the heatsink attached seem to match close to ther threads. The output voltages on the output holes are as following as if you were reading the Q504, Q505, etc right side up. Going left to right
Q504
Leg 1 90.8 v
Leg 2 81.6 v
Leg 3 87.9 v
Q505
Leg 1 5.5 v
Leg 2 87.9 v
Leg 3 0 v
Q506
Leg 1 5.5 v
Leg 2 87.9 v
Leg 3 0 v
Q507
Leg 1 90.8 v
Leg 2 81.6 v
Leg 3 87.9 v
So I can't find this info anywhere when the amp is good and correct everywhere else... the outputs are still out and its powered up. All the voltages I check with the heatsink attached seem to match close to ther threads. The output voltages on the output holes are as following as if you were reading the Q504, Q505, etc right side up. Going left to right
Q504
Leg 1 90.8 v
Leg 2 81.6 v
Leg 3 87.9 v
Q505
Leg 1 5.5 v
Leg 2 87.9 v
Leg 3 0 v
Q506
Leg 1 5.5 v
Leg 2 87.9 v
Leg 3 0 v
Q507
Leg 1 90.8 v
Leg 2 81.6 v
Leg 3 87.9 v
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No I have not, and long story short the amp meter on my multimeter doesn't work thanks to a friend who borrowed it. Need to get an amp meter. Haven't fixed/touched/built anything in like 5 years so obviously haven't had to use it. I do know it ran on a 5A fuse for 10 minutes without a problem earlier when I got those voltages.
Well I ended up putting the outputs in to just try it. I have 4 spares so figured why not. Kept the 5A fuse in it, and powered it up. Everything appeared to be good. Let it idle for ~5 minutes and turned it off.
Hooked up a speaker, and a signal input still with the the 5 A fuse in place. Barely turned it on, and I had sound! so I let that go for another 10 minutes playing, and then upped the fuse to a 10 A. Let it play with a little more power, let it sit and play for about 30-45 minutes. Figured that was good to go.
Put it in my car last night, and let it rip. Holding together quite nicely, and pushing an Eclipse Ti 15" sub pretty well... supposed to be 750w RMS, and I"m pretty sure that 500/1 is pushing it's limits.
Thanks for the help, and I'm going to say it's safe to say those are the output voltages on the outputs. At least with no outputs in the board. that was ground and tested each hole in the board.
Hooked up a speaker, and a signal input still with the the 5 A fuse in place. Barely turned it on, and I had sound! so I let that go for another 10 minutes playing, and then upped the fuse to a 10 A. Let it play with a little more power, let it sit and play for about 30-45 minutes. Figured that was good to go.
Put it in my car last night, and let it rip. Holding together quite nicely, and pushing an Eclipse Ti 15" sub pretty well... supposed to be 750w RMS, and I"m pretty sure that 500/1 is pushing it's limits.
Thanks for the help, and I'm going to say it's safe to say those are the output voltages on the outputs. At least with no outputs in the board. that was ground and tested each hole in the board.
Yeah it was one of those moments where I thought I could jump back in the deep end... which I should have found a crap board and practiced a little before hand. In a few weeks imma try to fix a different amplifier. So ill see what I can do. Thanks for the tips and help.
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