Hi Giaime,
You know, that "junk" was well designed in it's day. Circuits have improved but construction hasn't.
I do the same thing. I don't bring as much $$$ as I used to. I get a kick out of repairing something I know was well made. I do the same thing with tube radios. This includes "the all American five" models if the radio looks interesting.
Anyway, you can learn a lot from looking at how things should be done and how they failed.
-Chris
You know, that "junk" was well designed in it's day. Circuits have improved but construction hasn't.
I do the same thing. I don't bring as much $$$ as I used to. I get a kick out of repairing something I know was well made. I do the same thing with tube radios. This includes "the all American five" models if the radio looks interesting.
Anyway, you can learn a lot from looking at how things should be done and how they failed.
-Chris
Yes, you know, here people thinks about repairing things in a "software" point of view, instead of living on cold coffee and solder fumes...
Winzozz (as we say here in Italy, it means dirty Windows) is usually easier to repair than a typical EL84 pp stereo amp.
BTW, Chris, I was thinking about my amp... I would try to replace, among other things, the pwr supply capacitors since they are really old. They are in beautiful metal cans, and I'd like to keep the original look. Can I just open them, throw away all that's inside and put in new capacitors (since new ones are smaller than old ones) and remount it? I've heard of that, but I would be sure...
Winzozz (as we say here in Italy, it means dirty Windows) is usually easier to repair than a typical EL84 pp stereo amp.
BTW, Chris, I was thinking about my amp... I would try to replace, among other things, the pwr supply capacitors since they are really old. They are in beautiful metal cans, and I'd like to keep the original look. Can I just open them, throw away all that's inside and put in new capacitors (since new ones are smaller than old ones) and remount it? I've heard of that, but I would be sure...
Hi Giaime,
Absolutely. I do this with tube amps often. The terminals at the bottom are the hardest part.
Repairing in software. A Japanese viewpoint. Learn from our fathers, make it fit or work really well. A little correction with software to make it almost perfect. eg Studer vs Tascam.
To solve Windoze problems, install OS/2 or Linux. Amazing, all most 100% up time then.
-Chris
Absolutely. I do this with tube amps often. The terminals at the bottom are the hardest part.
Repairing in software. A Japanese viewpoint. Learn from our fathers, make it fit or work really well. A little correction with software to make it almost perfect. eg Studer vs Tascam.
To solve Windoze problems, install OS/2 or Linux. Amazing, all most 100% up time then.
-Chris
Oh thanks Chris!
I knew Linux and I usually work with it, especially when we are talking about astrophisics (science labs at universities here are all based on Linux). When I'll buy myself a laptop this pc where I'm writing will go to the Penguin side of the Force...
Is there something dangerous for healt inside old capacitors?
I knew Linux and I usually work with it, especially when we are talking about astrophisics (science labs at universities here are all based on Linux). When I'll buy myself a laptop this pc where I'm writing will go to the Penguin side of the Force...
Is there something dangerous for healt inside old capacitors?
For that amp that you are rebuilding, I would say that the electrolytic capacitors are the first things to be changed. FOr the cap cans, you can either remove the can and instal modern capacitors inside it, or simply disconnect the wires going to it and mount new capacitors under chassis. upgrading to a 3 wire line cord, installing a fuse, and removing the "death cap" are all MANDATORY for safety reasons if your amplifier does not already have a nice fused 3 wire power cord.
Thanks! In fact I was going to do these things you said. The capacitors are not chassis mounted in the classical sense (you mean these amps with the tubes, transformers and caps on the top of the chassis, and other passives under). My amp instead is a kind of rack-mount type, but enclosed in a wonderful wood enclosure with brass vents. It is made of steel and riveteed (this is a pain because some components are hard to reach to solder them). Tubes, transformers and caps are mounted horizontally inside it. I know a photo would make everything easier but I haven't the access to a digital camera for the moment.
What should I do for that voltage selector plug? There are so many wires coming into the PT, so I am not sure of disconnecting them and isolate...
What should I do for that voltage selector plug? There are so many wires coming into the PT, so I am not sure of disconnecting them and isolate...
I am refering to things in this thread:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=54076
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=54076
Hi Giaime,
Try not to get the stuff on your hands, you may want to use gloves. Make sure to clean the can out well. As long as the new caps don't throw off a lot of heat you are fine inside the old can.
Don't interfere with the voltage selector switch, leave it there and in use. The only reason I don't replace the cans types is many were not available, the ones that were ...$$$$ - too much. NOS = bad many times.
Sounds like a really nice case. Love to see it.
-Chris
Try not to get the stuff on your hands, you may want to use gloves. Make sure to clean the can out well. As long as the new caps don't throw off a lot of heat you are fine inside the old can.
Don't interfere with the voltage selector switch, leave it there and in use. The only reason I don't replace the cans types is many were not available, the ones that were ...$$$$ - too much. NOS = bad many times.
Sounds like a really nice case. Love to see it.
-Chris
Ops... Too late for that voltage selector. I already destroyed that and figured out what are the wires for 220V. And I insulated the other wires with some tape... Also removed the on/off switch and replaced it with 2-pole switch. Yesterday I drilled the holes for the new input and output connectors: it was very hard because of the stainless steel chassis. Not the usual alluminium things!
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