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fdegrove said:
Adding mass doesn't make it less resonant. It just lowers the resonant frequency. So unless you're able to get the resonant frequency well below 20Hz, you're not going to accomplish the goal.
That could work with big flexible panels. But don't see it working too well with the tiny chassis that are more typical of Gainclones. Because the panels will be much smaller, they'll also be much stiffer which means their resonant frequency will be higher which means it will require adding quite a lot more mass to get the resonant frequency well below 20Hz.
se
I have to ask the question, is there any real performance increase by super cooling the chip beyond normal heat sinking.A properly running clone runs very cool and i really find it hard to believe that further cooling would actually improve the sound.
I believe that resonance and vibration control would actually have a greater impact on overall performance than additional cooling.
I mean are we really going to start floating the chip in liquid nitrogen or some other means to get a .001% increase in performance?
ron
I believe that resonance and vibration control would actually have a greater impact on overall performance than additional cooling.
I mean are we really going to start floating the chip in liquid nitrogen or some other means to get a .001% increase in performance?
ron
When I started this thread, I wasn't concentrating on supercooling, but on using a reasonable amount of heatsinking surface to dissipate only enough heat. Depending on the music you listen to and volume level, the small size amp might run cool, but when you push it, it can get hot too, I mean Aleph hot. My amp is 8.5 x 6.5 x 2", whole aluminum, no additional heatsinks and I used to have it warmed up to at least 40 deg C on some occasions.
I did more thinking and I'm pretty much set on using copper pipes for heatsinking. They are easily available, easy to cut (straight) , can be soldered and copper is very good heat conductor, not to mention that it probably sounds better than aluminum. I will cut 1" or 2" dia. pipe to req. length, solder flat copper piece to one end and mount chip there. Will also see if filling pipe with sand brings any improvement. The pipe will be mounted in some sort of acrylic or wood frame. No separate PS this time.
I did more thinking and I'm pretty much set on using copper pipes for heatsinking. They are easily available, easy to cut (straight) , can be soldered and copper is very good heat conductor, not to mention that it probably sounds better than aluminum. I will cut 1" or 2" dia. pipe to req. length, solder flat copper piece to one end and mount chip there. Will also see if filling pipe with sand brings any improvement. The pipe will be mounted in some sort of acrylic or wood frame. No separate PS this time.
Empty Vessels....
Millwood, have you actually tried different heatsink materials ?.
By the tone of your reply I think not.
If you do have something sensible to say then say it, if you do not then don't, ok.
Eric.
millwood said:yes, copper does sound better than aluminum. Have you tried gold plates or gold bars? They do wonders to sound too.
Millwood, have you actually tried different heatsink materials ?.
By the tone of your reply I think not.
If you do have something sensible to say then say it, if you do not then don't, ok.
Eric.
Fans Are Cheap And Easy.
Peter, there are plenty of cheap and very small DC fans available nowadays, that can shift air efficiently and very quietly.
In my experience there is nothing like forced air movement to keep temperatures down.
Just gently forcing air through your case will help dramatically to keep a lid on case and device temp.
Somebody posted a clever and elegant circuit here recently that uses an NTC thermistor and a LM317 to control fan speed.
Fan noise reduces and longevity increases markedly with reduced fan speed, and as far as I am concerned constant heatsink temperature is a very good because device thermal conditions are kept more constant.
I have heard one well respected designer say that a particular temperature sounds best.
Eric.
PS - Graham Pratt has shown some photos with the active devices mounted to a copper block that is then mounted to (and insulated from) the aluminium heatsink, and I think this is a good compromise over using copper heatsink only.
Peter, there are plenty of cheap and very small DC fans available nowadays, that can shift air efficiently and very quietly.
In my experience there is nothing like forced air movement to keep temperatures down.
Just gently forcing air through your case will help dramatically to keep a lid on case and device temp.
Somebody posted a clever and elegant circuit here recently that uses an NTC thermistor and a LM317 to control fan speed.
Fan noise reduces and longevity increases markedly with reduced fan speed, and as far as I am concerned constant heatsink temperature is a very good because device thermal conditions are kept more constant.
I have heard one well respected designer say that a particular temperature sounds best.
Eric.
PS - Graham Pratt has shown some photos with the active devices mounted to a copper block that is then mounted to (and insulated from) the aluminium heatsink, and I think this is a good compromise over using copper heatsink only.
Re: Empty Vessels....
Eric, could I ask you to think again?
Yes, I have. currently, I am trying out different CPU heatsinks, with or without fans. the ones I have tried out are copper, aluminum, aluminum with copper shims / plates, and annodized aluminum. I have also tried out steel (using an ATX PS case).
In yesteryears, I have tried aluminum bars, steel plates, cast iron (a piece of radiator,), oil-filed steel (another piece of a radiator), water / alcohol (evaporative coolers).
Gold, with its superior heat conductivity, great density, and cosmetic appeal, would make a super heatsink and vibration damper. Wouldn't you agree?
mrfeedback said:
Eric, could I ask you to think again?
Yes, I have. currently, I am trying out different CPU heatsinks, with or without fans. the ones I have tried out are copper, aluminum, aluminum with copper shims / plates, and annodized aluminum. I have also tried out steel (using an ATX PS case).
In yesteryears, I have tried aluminum bars, steel plates, cast iron (a piece of radiator,
), oil-filed steel (another piece of a radiator), water / alcohol (evaporative coolers).Gold, with its superior heat conductivity, great density, and cosmetic appeal, would make a super heatsink and vibration damper. Wouldn't you agree?
Re: I don't get this...
I thought we had established that you need a lot of mass to damp vibration earlier in this thread. and gold certainly is heavy.
plus, it is quite soft and thus being able to deform -> absorbing direct hit.
carlosfm said:
How can gold damp vibrations?!
On some sorbothane feet?
I thought we had established that you need a lot of mass to damp vibration earlier in this thread. and gold certainly is heavy.
plus, it is quite soft and thus being able to deform -> absorbing direct hit.
Re: Re: I don't get this...
I would lose my time in trying to reduce transformer vibrations (if it's in the same box, that is).
Trying to damp vibrations of a chip with metal is not my field.
Or one day people will substitute the schock absorbers on their cars with spikes.
And the tires with metal cylinders.
millwood said:
I would lose my time in trying to reduce transformer vibrations (if it's in the same box, that is).
Trying to damp vibrations of a chip with metal is not my field.
Or one day people will substitute the schock absorbers on their cars with spikes.
And the tires with metal cylinders.
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