Pepe, that is the exact example of the term I listed. No where in your trash posts, do you explain the joy of building your own, the ability to watch with no problem, the accomplishment, etc. You only say they don't work bla bla bla. Very negative, and it psses me off. You need to give it a rest on the negative posts. You do contribute positive stuff, but it seems that only your positive stuff is good, and everyone elses is crap. That is my point.
Can you reset your camera to 100 ISO and .5s shutter. I would like to see something. Thanks
Can you reset your camera to 100 ISO and .5s shutter. I would like to see something. Thanks
pepe303 said:Obviously, what you measured in those 10$-worth "private forums" is rarely being confirmed anywhere else. Sure, I forgot, it has to be a "pro" reflector
I've done lots of testing with both steel and glass (OHP) reflectors, also friend of mine has done quite a lot, with a silver plated reflector. No one could get anything more than 20-25% improvement. Search this forum for posts from Guy Grotke, he measured light output, and IIRC he got about 25%, also using a silver-plated reflector.
You can also do a very simple experiment: turn the MH bulb on, take a welding glasses and look at the arc tube. You will see that calling it "transparent" is hardly acceptable. It's semi-opaque and diffusive, and it's very unlikely you will get a significant light increase due to the reflection passing through this stuff, even using a so called "pro" reflector.
Regards
There you go again, spewing more of your garbage and "anti-LL" propoganda, I'm just SO shocked....
Tell me, what happened to you that made you so anti-LL and anti-DIY? Really, I wanna know what all the unjustified bashing of all things DIY is for? Why do you hate us over at LL so much, and why do you "attempt" to discourage anyone that loves DIY projects? And lastly, why the hell are you on a site called DIYaudio.com since you seem to hate all things DIY so much? Miedosoracing said:
I did never say that it "doesn't work". I just say it's not worth to bother if you expect the quality of the final product, or expect considerable savings of money. You can still build a projector just for the process of building itself, like I play trumpet just for playing. No way you can reach the quality of even cheapest modern factory projectors, and you will probably spend more money, especially if you will insist on the quality, and spend on some "pro" stuff (expensive lenses, good LCD, nicely finished box). Look what they sell now at LL, it's an ancient technology single panel 640x480 projector, and it's still better, cheaper and more convenient than DIY. Doesn't matter its specs are overrated, it's certainly not a 1100 ANSI lm, perharps less than half of that, with all the problems inherent to single panel technology, but still much better than any DIY, due to accuracy of factory machining, complete design, and proper selection of components (not just random surplus parts).
So if you want to have fun building projector, have extra money to spend and lots of spare time, have all the tools available, want to learn new skills, go for it. If you want to have a decent, troubleless projector and watch movies, and you don't have much money and time to spend, buy anything made in the factory. If you just want to listen to Wynton Marsalis performances, it's a foolish idea to buy a trumpet and start learning, with the hope that any day soon you will recreate music of similar quality. It will never happen. A buch of best records will be much cheaper than the student-quality trumpet itself.
> Can you reset your camera to 100 ISO and .5s shutter. I would like to see something.
Which picture do you want me to take with these settings, and what screen size? My focusing mechanism is basically fixed to screen that is 2.8m wide, so I would prefer this size, otherwise image may be out of focus, if that matters for this test.
Regards
Pepe, how can you say a DIY projector can't have the same quality as a commercial projector. I watched a movie on a Infocus LP640 that retails as much as $2 000 and I found that my DIY pj looked better and I figured it cost me about $700 including my 102" screen and that's with only a 250 watt MH. I'd like to see how it would look with a 400 watt bulb.
Pepe, I have posted proof that DIY projectors that put out 300-500 lumens are in the same realm as brightness as the ones that claim 1200 lumens. Why, because at viewing levels, not maxed out like they do to get ratings, they only put out 300-500 lumens. Also, those commercial cheap one's have a refresh rate of 60-80ms. Yeah, much better than ours
If you can prove me wrong, put up the numbers. But those numbers are right. Also, the size of the screen is fine at 2.8. thanks
If you can prove me wrong, put up the numbers. But those numbers are right. Also, the size of the screen is fine at 2.8. thankslol@bulb cost.
no on a serious note though, I wanted a commercial projector, I wanted one BAD, I know how the quality is, but after finding this site I found a better solution, mines cheaper, lets get dirty.
the standard "Commercial Projector" usually (90%) does not do true High Definition within a $1,000 Dollar price tag w/ A good responce time.
now say you're like me, i've been very fortunate and turned alot of people who cant afford the awesome HDTVs they want a differant direction, i've inspired at least 3 people to join lumenlabs and DIYAudio, do I get anything out of it? He** no, Instead I get something more rewarding then parts, money etc, I give people the chance make something that they can use every day to game on for less then 800 Dollars.
My Pure gaming projector gets used..what 6-7 hours a day, sometimes I'll just leave the thing on, because I can. I'm not worried about replacing A 350+ dollar bulb every year
I get true, Unmolested High Definition, not upscaled, not downscaled, converted, pure 720p, and with the new systems on the rise and clearly supporting high defintion (except the revolution WHICH IS front projection compatable) I wouldn't be surprised if many more hardcore gamers such as myself started to build these things for the TRUE gamming experiance.
You by saying Commercial projectors are far superior to ours offends all of us, 90% of us don't believe so including myself, you'll be da** lucky if you find a DECENT true 1280x720 commercial projector that doesnt have under a 4,000 hour bulb life and cost upwards of 600 dollars to replace.
Just this last weekend I had 2 of my friends over who go to art school, and use 10,000 dollar projectors on a daily basis, and they still said that they see no differance at all between my projector and a 10,000 dollar one, to me that compliment let me know that I did well, and I accomplished my goal.
I now have one KICK A** HDTV Projector that can take advantage of any and everything I throw at it.
And as A side note I thank anybody on this board who's ever inspired or helped me reach this goal.
no on a serious note though, I wanted a commercial projector, I wanted one BAD, I know how the quality is, but after finding this site I found a better solution, mines cheaper, lets get dirty.
the standard "Commercial Projector" usually (90%) does not do true High Definition within a $1,000 Dollar price tag w/ A good responce time.
now say you're like me, i've been very fortunate and turned alot of people who cant afford the awesome HDTVs they want a differant direction, i've inspired at least 3 people to join lumenlabs and DIYAudio, do I get anything out of it? He** no, Instead I get something more rewarding then parts, money etc, I give people the chance make something that they can use every day to game on for less then 800 Dollars.
My Pure gaming projector gets used..what 6-7 hours a day, sometimes I'll just leave the thing on, because I can. I'm not worried about replacing A 350+ dollar bulb every year
I get true, Unmolested High Definition, not upscaled, not downscaled, converted, pure 720p, and with the new systems on the rise and clearly supporting high defintion (except the revolution WHICH IS front projection compatable) I wouldn't be surprised if many more hardcore gamers such as myself started to build these things for the TRUE gamming experiance.
You by saying Commercial projectors are far superior to ours offends all of us, 90% of us don't believe so including myself, you'll be da** lucky if you find a DECENT true 1280x720 commercial projector that doesnt have under a 4,000 hour bulb life and cost upwards of 600 dollars to replace.
Just this last weekend I had 2 of my friends over who go to art school, and use 10,000 dollar projectors on a daily basis, and they still said that they see no differance at all between my projector and a 10,000 dollar one, to me that compliment let me know that I did well, and I accomplished my goal.
I now have one KICK A** HDTV Projector that can take advantage of any and everything I throw at it.
And as A side note I thank anybody on this board who's ever inspired or helped me reach this goal.
I'd say go this route then, if you are going to continue messing with it. You can get the extra brightness you are wanting. What lens are you using. This light has a 55mm arc, so you will need a 135mm lens I am guessing. http://www.eyehortilux.com/tb/blue/EQS-N-52-78-57945.pdf
ChristmasGT said:
Hey ChristmasGT, wow! fantastic screenies over at lumenlab the resolution and colours are excellent, I was just wondering however if you could post a couple of pics with the exposure time set a bit lower. I just had a look at the pics HERE but the exposure's set to 3 secs. Is there any way u could set it to maybe 0.25 - 0.5s which would give better comparison shots. In order to get a good idea of what a PJ is throwing on a wall, I'd recommend an iso 100, f 2.8-2.9, exposure time 0.125-0.5 secs.
Cheers
Not only the camera settings have to be the same, but also the screen size.
And similar camera settings are supposed to give comparable results, that's why these settings in cameras have some specified values, not just "low" "medium" and "high", which would mean anything. ISO100 means ISO100, maybe with some variance from one model to another, but I don't expect that setting ISO100 in one camera could be similar to ISO400 in another one.
Regards
And similar camera settings are supposed to give comparable results, that's why these settings in cameras have some specified values, not just "low" "medium" and "high", which would mean anything. ISO100 means ISO100, maybe with some variance from one model to another, but I don't expect that setting ISO100 in one camera could be similar to ISO400 in another one.
Regards
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