Alpair 10.2 should be here Tuesday so it is time to start a build thread. As many on this forum do, I would like to put my signature on this project. Before starting, I have some questions to help guide me in the design. Hopefully with others help, I can create something unique. First question concerns the original Pensil design. Is this considered an MLTL? Would changing the box shape affect the rsponse as long as volume is kept consistent? Considering changing side view shape into something with curved line.
Can I break in the 10.2's using appr sized cardboard box, closed at first then cutting a hole to simulate BR?
Can I break in the 10.2's using appr sized cardboard box, closed at first then cutting a hole to simulate BR?
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You could have asked me.
It's a specific alignment that's essentially a hybrid of different loads. The dimensions are functional, so if you alter them, you're on your own, as you will have moved away from the original design remit & behaviour.
I was hoping you would respond when I started this thread. I am ignorant and will rely heavily on yours and others advice. Of course it could't be simple. How would beveling the baffle affect response. I would assume it would help with baffle diffraction, but I am unsure of other subtleties.
My eventual hope is to use the 10.2 in a FAST type speaker. I am very interested in the Devore lineup, specifically his bass setup on the silverbacks. Do you or any one else have any ideas about what's going on in there. From the description, it seems that the two holes you see are ports.
Interesting description of what is going on in the speaker in this review. I know the drivers are not connected to the outside box.
DeVore Fidelity Silverback Reference loudspeaker | Stereophile.com
DeVore Fidelity Silverback Reference loudspeaker | Stereophile.com
Are those yours or did you find that pcis somehwere. In the article it says the woofers are mated to the interior enclosure instead of exterior wall. How do you think they make transition to outside wall on sides. I would think that there is an air gap between interior and exterior wall. I am really interested in his speakers. They are one of the most widely praised brands I have read about. Numerous peopl end up keeping their test cabs because they like then so mcuh.
Certainly not mine, there's plenty of shots of them on 6moons. I just ran a quick search through google.
Don't know. The loading looks to be a variation on the DBR theme, possibly with a small gap or a short tube / similar between the internal sub-enclosure & the external box to trigger the resonant modes of the latter's panels, which frankly I'm dubious about. I don't like speakers that have resonant panels within their operating BW. I want resonances out of that region.
Don't know. The loading looks to be a variation on the DBR theme, possibly with a small gap or a short tube / similar between the internal sub-enclosure & the external box to trigger the resonant modes of the latter's panels, which frankly I'm dubious about. I don't like speakers that have resonant panels within their operating BW. I want resonances out of that region.
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Don't bass reflex enclosures create two resonant peaks that have to be EQ'ed out. From a personal point of view, how would you compare the sound of BR/DBR vs MLTL vs sealed. Not so worried about extreme low end extension. Want accuracy at reasonable level of 40 - 50Hz. I guess its time to invest in MJK's worksheets.
Well, a vented box tends to have a double-humped impedance curve, but that doesn't necessarily mandate Eq.
Oh hell. Generalising like made, BR, DBR & MLTLs should be much of a muchness in terms of presentation, but in all cases it depends on the alignment used. You pick whatever is most appropriate for the job in hand.
Oh hell. Generalising like made, BR, DBR & MLTLs should be much of a muchness in terms of presentation, but in all cases it depends on the alignment used. You pick whatever is most appropriate for the job in hand.
Scott,
Am i correct in thinking that marine grade plywood is the ideal enclosure material over mdf?
If I may interject, the advantages of ply over MDF is personal preference. Baltic birch is the king of ply due to its perfect layering and no surprise gaps like some other plys. Its expensive as hell though. If you are not too picky about looks..then other plys will work just as nicely. MDF will have less resonance than plys, and because of this will tend to make the sound more "hard" vs "soft" that the plys tend to exemplify. Thats why my last build was made with a combination of ply AND MDF.
Could you give more details? Its time to buy and mdf is so much cheaper than marine rgade ply. Would leave more money for veneer.
are you planning to brace the cabinet?
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