ICEpower 50asx2 btl

Are there false modules then? Little difficult to copy as it looks to me.

I have however a real one, it is from a subwoofer, did get if from someone who did has a new one and trow this away.

The feedback system is mECC but for me it is just a double opamp PID system. Looks like the most feedback systems around.

Much feedback will not make sound better. GAN mosfets are however promissing, need just small feedback or even none..

Mecc looks like this, however this is a flying cap three level. (see pic)
 

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Are there false modules then? Little difficult to copy as it looks to me.

I have however a real one, it is from a subwoofer, did get if from someone who did has a new one and trow this away.

The feedback system is mECC but for me it is just a double opamp PID system. Looks like the most feedback systems around.

Much feedback will not make sound better. GAN mosfets are however promissing, need just small feedback or even none..

Mecc looks like this, however this is a flying cap three level. (see pic)
According to my sources almost every ICEPower amp that is ordered from China is fake and it is almost impossible to tell them apart except that the fakes have a very high failure rate. I would say that from time to time Ghent Audio sell excess stock of ICEPOwer amps and as far as I know, they are real ICEPower amps.
 
I have one who is coming from a subwoofer who is buyed in the netherlands, I have however a fault in it that is does not work
except the supply who is fine. This is not a fake amp. I hav however ic,s in like the mosfet driver I can not tell what types that is, the opamps are in one chip
who also have only a icepower type.

I have not yet try to repair, to busy with other things.

I have made a kind of drawn what the icepower does, it is not a super feedback system, do not exist just , it is made also by other vendors.

It is by the way no PID but PI.
 

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Well, as I have promised, I have ventured into replacing the faulty L100.

To do it, I have removed P102 connector first in order to gain access to L100. Desoldering it was a breeze with hot air SMD workstation, but putting new component ... well, to cut long story short, after second try, I have finally managed to put it in place. For me, soldering iron with good and clean tip and fine pair of tweezers have done the trick.

It turned out that, whille my measuring attempt in which I have rendered L100 useless, I have also managed to destroy track for channel 1 input signal, going from L100 to first resistor. I have tried to correct that by using more solder and thus connecting those two together.

Next, I need to check other components to see what else have I damaged.

Here is the picture of L100 prepared for desoldering.

Finally, I am more than happy to share a link to the component I have decided to replace faulty L100 with, in case that is ok with forum rules. If not, you can always PM me.
 

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According to my sources almost every ICEPower amp that is ordered from China is fake and it is almost impossible to tell them apart except that the fakes have a very high failure rate.
This is said because the original ones also seem to fail a lot. They come from China like everything comes from China. It is a cover up for the high failure rate. Many think in emotions and a favorite A Brand class D module going kaputt does not fit.

Proof is original A brands that definitely have original B&O modules and their failure rate.
 
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Does anyone know is it normal to have a signal of 1.6Vpp @ 100kHz after LC filter, when there is no input signal?
Here you can see the oscilograms of both channels, as well as an example of output signal on the speaker.

To be honest, I am not comfortable with this signal, so if someone have more experience, I would be very grateful.

Kind regards.

B

Just to be sure, module seems to be working, apart from this residual signal.
 

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Well, today I have finally tesred module with new L100.
For the time being, it looks that it is working well.

Here are some pictures - with new L100 and assembled and tested.
What is that with these supressor coil? I read a lot of problems with it, maybe because of temperature it breaks because it is soldered as a smd? Little room to expand, and do crack in time.