@Daniel Lin,
Ian's original adapters have pads for NDK SDA-sized clocks. They will fit on the FiFoPi, but do not have as extensive of local power bypasses as his newer adapters.
ALSO, IF you are positive you plan to stick with the NDK SDA's for a long time (They are excellent clocks!), you can remove the sockets and there are pads for both Crystek-sized and NDK SDA-sized clocks directly on the FiFoPi board. Will be updating the manual to reflect that!
Greg in Mississippi
Ian's original adapters have pads for NDK SDA-sized clocks. They will fit on the FiFoPi, but do not have as extensive of local power bypasses as his newer adapters.
ALSO, IF you are positive you plan to stick with the NDK SDA's for a long time (They are excellent clocks!), you can remove the sockets and there are pads for both Crystek-sized and NDK SDA-sized clocks directly on the FiFoPi board. Will be updating the manual to reflect that!
Greg in Mississippi
I have a few technical questions. I'm not entirely sure where to post them, so I will do it here where I bought the modules
For starters:
Q1: What is the output voltage swing of the single ended and balanced outputs of the op-amp and transformer I/V stages when mated with the two different DAC options?
Q2: What is the current draw on the individual 3V3 rails on the two DAC modules?
Thanks!
For starters:
Q1: What is the output voltage swing of the single ended and balanced outputs of the op-amp and transformer I/V stages when mated with the two different DAC options?
Q2: What is the current draw on the individual 3V3 rails on the two DAC modules?
Thanks!
I have a few technical questions. I'm not entirely sure where to post them, so I will do it here where I bought the modules
For starters:
Q1: What is the output voltage swing of the single ended and balanced outputs of the op-amp and transformer I/V stages when mated with the two different DAC options?
Q2: What is the current draw on the individual 3V3 rails on the two DAC modules?
Thanks!
1. For I/V STD, the balanced output voltage will be 4V RMS at 0dB. the SE output will be 2V RMS at 0dB. Transformer I/V could be a little bit lower because of no feedback, but still around.
2. The current has some business with clock frequency. But each rails is less then 30mA average based on real test.
For more details, please refer to the user's manuals which can be found from the gitHub link below my signature.
Regards,
Ian
Hello Ian,
i have a doubt,
is the lipo cells included on the battery board?
i was reading the documentation but i did not found the info.
because if not i will have to buy them because i´m waiting to delivery of the boards.
it will be nice for each item of the group buy, on the manual, a text of everything that is included on the item.
best regards
i have a doubt,
is the lipo cells included on the battery board?
i was reading the documentation but i did not found the info.
because if not i will have to buy them because i´m waiting to delivery of the boards.
it will be nice for each item of the group buy, on the manual, a text of everything that is included on the item.
best regards
@pistollero
26650 LifePO4 battery cells are not included.
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gro...us-i2s-pdif-fifo-kit-buy-318.html#post5726311
Regards,
Ian
26650 LifePO4 battery cells are not included.
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gro...us-i2s-pdif-fifo-kit-buy-318.html#post5726311
Regards,
Ian
Most excellent point sir!
Will work that into the next set of revisions!
Greg in Mississippi
Ian's RPi GB Goodies Impressions, tweaks, mods and hints thread just started here:
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pc-...mpressions-tweaks-mods-hints.html#post5743505
Don't everyone post at once!
Greg in Mississippi
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pc-...mpressions-tweaks-mods-hints.html#post5743505
Don't everyone post at once!
Greg in Mississippi
Ian, I suggest you learn ALLO, list a few PLAYER combinations, that is, which modules can form a complete PLAYER. You can even learn ALLO to sell SD cards that have already burned the system. Although you have shown a photo for demo, many people still don't understand what components are in the photo. I have been asked by several people about similar issues and become a shopping guide.
@ofswitched
That's a good suggestion. Maybe I can consider doing it later.
But for now, I would suggest going to Greg's thread for the build and set up experience. Many community members would be very glad to help:
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pc-...mpressions-tweaks-mods-hints.html#post5743505
Regards,
Ian
That's a good suggestion. Maybe I can consider doing it later.
But for now, I would suggest going to Greg's thread for the build and set up experience. Many community members would be very glad to help:
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pc-...mpressions-tweaks-mods-hints.html#post5743505
Regards,
Ian
Battery explosions are a common occurrence, so Ian's battery board cannot contain the lipo cells. Ian has no way to take charge of accidents caused by improper operation of the user or possible encounters during the mailing process. You have to understand Ian, he did not earn a high profit to support him against these unknown risks.
2 important cautions...
First, related to the exchange between @pistollero and @ofswitched on the LiFePO4 supply, the LiFePO4 cells can source a lot of current... depending on the quality of your cells, 200 Amps or more. This by itself poses a significant hazard. I posted some best practices I developed assembling the cells onto my board and handling them afterwards in posts 490 and 491 of this thread:
Develop ultra capacitor power supply and LiFePO4 battery power supply
I've promised a 3rd part, it will basically say you need to cover the cells and the bottom of the board to prevent inadvertant shorts during use and handling.
I am less worried about shock hazard from the cells, but once they are assembled on the board, if you use all positions, 4 cells are in series on 2 of the outputs to give you over 13V per output... be careful about possible shocks under wet or otherwise conductive conditions with them.
I am also less worried about fire and explosion hazards with these cells now. According to the literature, they are inherently much more safe than Lithium Polymer and Lithium Ion cells and generally won't catch fire or explode as those can. I found a good comparison between those cell types where I purchased my cells:
BatteryStuff Articles | Overview of the Different Types of Lithium Batteries on the Market
Still, the danger from shorts MUST be taken seriously.
Second, in an RPi DAC stack, there is little clearance between the FiFoPi board and the DAC board. This means you don't have a lot of room for upgrade clocks. I have assembled adapters with both NDK SDA and Crystek CCHD-957 so far using both Ian's original and latest clock adapter boards. The NDK's are no problem, but the Crysteks come very close to touching the bottom of the DAC board. You have to take care to minimize the distance between the bottom of the adapter board and the top of the sockets. When assembling the adapters to the socket pin, use the spare socket Ian provides for that work. I use the circuit board material runners that you break the adapters from as spacers between the top of the sockets and the board bottoms, positioning them so they contact the bottom of the boards ONLY and NOT the capacitors mounted on the bottom, so as not to add more height. Slightly thinner spacers would even be better, but you need some spacer to make sure you don't solder the pins into the sockets. Once you have the clock adapters assembled and in the FiFoPi, make sure to check for space between them and the next board when you assemble them together... AND correct it if they touch!
Greg in Mississippi
First, related to the exchange between @pistollero and @ofswitched on the LiFePO4 supply, the LiFePO4 cells can source a lot of current... depending on the quality of your cells, 200 Amps or more. This by itself poses a significant hazard. I posted some best practices I developed assembling the cells onto my board and handling them afterwards in posts 490 and 491 of this thread:
Develop ultra capacitor power supply and LiFePO4 battery power supply
I've promised a 3rd part, it will basically say you need to cover the cells and the bottom of the board to prevent inadvertant shorts during use and handling.
I am less worried about shock hazard from the cells, but once they are assembled on the board, if you use all positions, 4 cells are in series on 2 of the outputs to give you over 13V per output... be careful about possible shocks under wet or otherwise conductive conditions with them.
I am also less worried about fire and explosion hazards with these cells now. According to the literature, they are inherently much more safe than Lithium Polymer and Lithium Ion cells and generally won't catch fire or explode as those can. I found a good comparison between those cell types where I purchased my cells:
BatteryStuff Articles | Overview of the Different Types of Lithium Batteries on the Market
Still, the danger from shorts MUST be taken seriously.
Second, in an RPi DAC stack, there is little clearance between the FiFoPi board and the DAC board. This means you don't have a lot of room for upgrade clocks. I have assembled adapters with both NDK SDA and Crystek CCHD-957 so far using both Ian's original and latest clock adapter boards. The NDK's are no problem, but the Crysteks come very close to touching the bottom of the DAC board. You have to take care to minimize the distance between the bottom of the adapter board and the top of the sockets. When assembling the adapters to the socket pin, use the spare socket Ian provides for that work. I use the circuit board material runners that you break the adapters from as spacers between the top of the sockets and the board bottoms, positioning them so they contact the bottom of the boards ONLY and NOT the capacitors mounted on the bottom, so as not to add more height. Slightly thinner spacers would even be better, but you need some spacer to make sure you don't solder the pins into the sockets. Once you have the clock adapters assembled and in the FiFoPi, make sure to check for space between them and the next board when you assemble them together... AND correct it if they touch!
Greg in Mississippi