Re: CCS
So after doing some reading I'm going to venture a guess that the power supply portion of the schematic doesn't have the CCS. If you were going to use a super-reg in this location could you just use a larger transformer (190vac) to reach the 50-100v surplus needed to run the regulator? Would you have to tinker with the power supply component values?
athos56 said:
So after doing some reading I'm going to venture a guess that the power supply portion of the schematic doesn't have the CCS. If you were going to use a super-reg in this location could you just use a larger transformer (190vac) to reach the 50-100v surplus needed to run the regulator? Would you have to tinker with the power supply component values?
240z4u said:
Evan,
If you eliminate the paired 2nd LC sections, the motor run cap. would replace the 40 muF. 'lytic. OTOH, if you retain the paired 2nd LC sections, a 'lytic is fine, as it is not in the signal path. Motor run caps. could replace the Solen parts in the paired 2nd LC sections.
Doug mentioned an alternative to the costly Mundorf coupling caps. at the preamp's O/Ps. There are other alternatives available. Madisound carries 5 muF. GE 40L3501 metallized polypropylene (MPP) caps. at an attractive price. Oil filled MPP motor run caps. are another possibility. Bypassing any of the alternatives mentioned with a Panasonic ECQP(U) series film and foil part of approx. 10% of the main cap.'s value rates to help. DigiKey carries the Panasonic ECQP(U) series parts.
Candidates for the CCSes include the DIY Audio PCB and the Bottlehead C4S. "P" type semiconductors are (IMO) indicated in anode loads.
Thanks guys!
Those GE caps look good, especially since I can almost walk to Madisound to pick them up!
I think I have some paper/oil jensens that would be perfect bypass caps. Ill probabally try before and after.
I know the price of the mundorf's and about flipped when I saw them in the schematic LOL. I have the MCAP supremes in my MKIII monos.
Evan
Those GE caps look good, especially since I can almost walk to Madisound to pick them up!
I think I have some paper/oil jensens that would be perfect bypass caps. Ill probabally try before and after.
I know the price of the mundorf's and about flipped when I saw them in the schematic LOL. I have the MCAP supremes in my MKIII monos.
Evan
Re: Re: Re: CCS
I was confused about the CCS. And I had been reading about other things, just trying to connect information in my head, not making purchasing decisions. I thought the super-reg was a ccs, thus my confusion. But, I am interested in this build, but because I know nothing about designing anything I need schematics for everything. What I can do is build schematics, the only problem is there are either always parts missing or 100 little changes to make
So time to look at those CCS you listed. BTW why not put the ccs on the schematic?
Eli Duttman said:
I was confused about the CCS. And I had been reading about other things, just trying to connect information in my head, not making purchasing decisions. I thought the super-reg was a ccs, thus my confusion. But, I am interested in this build, but because I know nothing about designing anything I need schematics for everything. What I can do is build schematics, the only problem is there are either always parts missing or 100 little changes to make
So time to look at those CCS you listed. BTW why not put the ccs on the schematic?Okay guys, I am wading in slowly on this project. I have my chassis cleaned up and ready for circutry now.
I also ordered everything I needed from Allied, so thats on the way.
Chokes are taken care of.
I ordered source selectors, knobs and all that crapola.
CCS is something I am still trying to absorb into my meager brain. I think I have it figured out though.
From what I gather, a CCS uses some sort of reference to keep current flow at a given level? I was reading about an auto bias type deal.
Would that be something I could stick in my dynaco MKIII monoblocks to auto bias my output tubes? That would be amazingly cool.
Evan
I also ordered everything I needed from Allied, so thats on the way.
Chokes are taken care of.
I ordered source selectors, knobs and all that crapola.
CCS is something I am still trying to absorb into my meager brain. I think I have it figured out though.
From what I gather, a CCS uses some sort of reference to keep current flow at a given level? I was reading about an auto bias type deal.
Would that be something I could stick in my dynaco MKIII monoblocks to auto bias my output tubes? That would be amazingly cool.
Evan
Bringing this one back from the DEAD. I finally have the time and money to finish this project.
Eli, you mention tweaking the 47nf cap to get voltages where they need to be.. can you give me an idea of what I may need to get it right? I have no extra parts, so if I don't get close Ill have to place another order.
Are there any specific TYPE of resistors that I should be using? I have been doing research and have confused the crap out of myself. Dale seems to be popular, can I use these for everything?
I don't have any ccs parts yet. I am going to mentally work out the details first on the main preamp section. I am going to place the entire power supply including CCS into another outboard chassis. Is this okay?
Thanks all! - Evan
Eli, you mention tweaking the 47nf cap to get voltages where they need to be.. can you give me an idea of what I may need to get it right? I have no extra parts, so if I don't get close Ill have to place another order.
Are there any specific TYPE of resistors that I should be using? I have been doing research and have confused the crap out of myself. Dale seems to be popular, can I use these for everything?
I don't have any ccs parts yet. I am going to mentally work out the details first on the main preamp section. I am going to place the entire power supply including CCS into another outboard chassis. Is this okay?
Thanks all! - Evan
Evan,
It's "impossible" to calculate the "fudge factor" capacitance value. You work the value out, at the bench, using the cut and try method. Load each leg of the PSU with series connected 3300 and 2700 Ohm 3 W. rated Xicon brand metal oxide resistors. Adjust the value of the "fudge factor" capacitance until you measure a 120 VDC drop across 1 of the 6000 Ohm resistances. Anything in the 120-125 V. range is fine. Under 120 V. and over 125 V. could be trouble. The quality of the capacitance used to adjust the B+ rail voltage is not particularly critical. Your local "Rat Shack" carries a 100 nF./250 WVDC metallized polyester part that could be useful. Even ceramic disk parts of an appropriate WVDC can contribute to the cause.
1/2 W. rated Xicon brand Carbon composition resistors are appropriate in the grid stopper positions. 1/2 W. rated Xicon Carbon film parts are fine in heater bias voltage divider positions. Vishay/Dale 1/2 W. rated RN65 metal film resistors are GOOD in the 500 Ohm and 1.5 MegOhm positions. All the resistors mentioned are available from Mouser. You can also order low cost Xicon brand 250 WVDC film caps. from Mouser. Buying a few values at and below 470 nF. just might be a good idea.
Put the CCS PCBs in the signal chassis.
Good luck!
Low gain problem. HELP!
Hi everyone
I need your help, desperately! I built a line stage using exactly the same parts (2.2k grid stopper, etc) suggested in the schematic. For the PSU I used almost the name parts employing an isolation transformer as suggested in this thread. I built LCLC without the "fuzzy factor" cap. I reduced the voltage down to 90v using 4.2k lead resistor. I applied the 90v straight to the plate (i skipped solen, etc). And with the load the voltage is down to 80v. And the grid bias is no where near the -10v as it was suggested here. In fact, my voltage meter reads it as around .2mv. The cathode voltage is about 8v.
Finally, I did not plug in anything to pin 3 which is filament center tap since I built a 350t base dc supply running at 12.53v.
The sound? Horrible! And very low! All bass and no treble. And I have to turn the volume all the way up! I know I did something wrong. I've been reading many other threads and downloaded at least 4 different schematics. But I can't figure it out. So, I am asking your help.
To help you understand: my input is CD player, 14 watts per side eicos, and altec horn system. I am building this line stage in the hope of adding a phono stage.
Thank for reading this long post. And thank you for your help.
Yaho.
Hi everyone
I need your help, desperately! I built a line stage using exactly the same parts (2.2k grid stopper, etc) suggested in the schematic. For the PSU I used almost the name parts employing an isolation transformer as suggested in this thread. I built LCLC without the "fuzzy factor" cap. I reduced the voltage down to 90v using 4.2k lead resistor. I applied the 90v straight to the plate (i skipped solen, etc). And with the load the voltage is down to 80v. And the grid bias is no where near the -10v as it was suggested here. In fact, my voltage meter reads it as around .2mv. The cathode voltage is about 8v.
Finally, I did not plug in anything to pin 3 which is filament center tap since I built a 350t base dc supply running at 12.53v.
The sound? Horrible! And very low! All bass and no treble. And I have to turn the volume all the way up! I know I did something wrong. I've been reading many other threads and downloaded at least 4 different schematics. But I can't figure it out. So, I am asking your help.
To help you understand: my input is CD player, 14 watts per side eicos, and altec horn system. I am building this line stage in the hope of adding a phono stage.
Thank for reading this long post. And thank you for your help.
Yaho.
Bringing this one back from the dead!
Bringing it back, it took FOREVER for me to get around to it but I am finally nearing completion but having trouble with hum. It is not terrible but noticeable enough to not be acceptable to me. Ill start that in a new thread though with photos!
Thanks for everything guys.
Evan
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=142714
Bringing it back, it took FOREVER for me to get around to it but I am finally nearing completion but having trouble with hum. It is not terrible but noticeable enough to not be acceptable to me. Ill start that in a new thread though with photos!
Thanks for everything guys.
Evan
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=142714
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