I took a power planer to my enclosure to "knock down" some faces that stuck out, and completely mangled it.
Is it worth recovering or should I spend the money to have new panels cut and just remake the whole thing from scratch?
I figure if I try to save it I would be slathering on some automotive body filler and then sanding that down to get flat surfaces again. My dilemma is ensuring that the resulting flat faces are actually perpendicular to the baffle and to each other.
Some pics attached. Sorry, the last pic is upside down but anyway I am holding a framing square to the top face of the box.
Is it worth recovering or should I spend the money to have new panels cut and just remake the whole thing from scratch?
I figure if I try to save it I would be slathering on some automotive body filler and then sanding that down to get flat surfaces again. My dilemma is ensuring that the resulting flat faces are actually perpendicular to the baffle and to each other.
Some pics attached. Sorry, the last pic is upside down but anyway I am holding a framing square to the top face of the box.
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That's a lot of work to throw away just for a problem on one side so +1 on adding the extra layer.
You might even try a glue that remains soft which should increase damping and sound absorption, like this one - LePage | PL Acousti-Seal Vapour Barrier & Sound Reduction Adhesive (300ml) | Home Depot Canada
Also, any chance you'll be putting that CC in some kind of console or shelf where you are not going to even see that top surface?
You might even try a glue that remains soft which should increase damping and sound absorption, like this one - LePage | PL Acousti-Seal Vapour Barrier & Sound Reduction Adhesive (300ml) | Home Depot Canada
Also, any chance you'll be putting that CC in some kind of console or shelf where you are not going to even see that top surface?
The problem is on 4 sides; every side except front and back.
My TV will be going on top of it, but the base is smaller than the box, so it won't cover it completely.
A box is a box IMO. Why are you worrying? 
Paint them black and nobody will notice. It's just your inner-obsessive OCD nature that is fighting you.
Very impressive Gale GS401A type construction.
This speaker should kick some ***. I'm impressed.
Paint them black and nobody will notice. It's just your inner-obsessive OCD nature that is fighting you.
Very impressive Gale GS401A type construction.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
This speaker should kick some ***. I'm impressed.
this is a user problem...
four sides shows a very strong will combined with a poor sense of judgment or too many beer. laminate on a thin layer of hardboard will improve the quality of the cabinet structure and be simple to finish. You made a real nice cabinet there why waste it? Even an 1/8" layer of hardboard would be fine. Best regards Moray James.
four sides shows a very strong will combined with a poor sense of judgment or too many beer. laminate on a thin layer of hardboard will improve the quality of the cabinet structure and be simple to finish. You made a real nice cabinet there why waste it? Even an 1/8" layer of hardboard would be fine. Best regards Moray James.
This. I thought I could solve the problem with more of what caused the problem.
I will consider the suggestions. Thanks everyone.
I think they look much better than my first attempt at cabinets...
It looks to me that a sander with 80 grit paper would fix them. Work one face first, sand it down, apply putty, let it dry, sand again and work up the scale with higher grade paper (120, 180, 240) applying putty between sanding sessions.
I would not dare hide this behind veneer. Veneer will not attach properly and will look and feel nasty with hollow points (bubbles) all over.
Also, don't paint them until they become adequately flat. Paint will not hide the pits and sanding after painting will just cause paint to clog the sanding paper and make it useless.
You could fix the surfaces with the power planer but it should be set to minimum cut and you should be very careful on how you pass it across the panels. Not too much downward force and passes should alternate along and across. A planer will generate less dust than a sander, but a sander (again with very little force) is more forgiving.
It looks to me that a sander with 80 grit paper would fix them. Work one face first, sand it down, apply putty, let it dry, sand again and work up the scale with higher grade paper (120, 180, 240) applying putty between sanding sessions.
I would not dare hide this behind veneer. Veneer will not attach properly and will look and feel nasty with hollow points (bubbles) all over.
Also, don't paint them until they become adequately flat. Paint will not hide the pits and sanding after painting will just cause paint to clog the sanding paper and make it useless.
You could fix the surfaces with the power planer but it should be set to minimum cut and you should be very careful on how you pass it across the panels. Not too much downward force and passes should alternate along and across. A planer will generate less dust than a sander, but a sander (again with very little force) is more forgiving.
Personally, I won't bother with it. I'll paint the sides black and drape it with a piece of cloth for the TV to stand on. As long as the front panel is fine, nobody will see the sides. There are more important things to work on, like the crossover.
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