Yep rdf,
Just lately here, I fired up my old Hammond C3 and Leslie from the rock and roll days. I knew the Hammond had some issues... couldn't get a sound. In the 20 minutes or so I spent fiddling with cables and wiggling tubes in their sockets, in the Hammond, I smoked the power trans in the Leslie. 47 year old PSU cap said I'm tired.
Now, I was lucky cuz' you can buy a reman. for a $100 (I did). I guess I would be real concerned about things that could kill trannies in these old rigs (caps).
Next, is the Hammond. I have reading much before hacking on the Hammond. On an interesting note, somebody has gone to the effort of having film caps made in the correct values (non-standard) for the 40 some-odd tank circuits used in the tone generator. His claim, and it makes sense, is it that you will actually hear the Hammond as it sounded the day it left factory. I did measure the old wax paper originals... 20 to 40% higher capacitance, and leakage currents through the roof.
All in all... it's a fine line.
Just lately here, I fired up my old Hammond C3 and Leslie from the rock and roll days. I knew the Hammond had some issues... couldn't get a sound. In the 20 minutes or so I spent fiddling with cables and wiggling tubes in their sockets, in the Hammond, I smoked the power trans in the Leslie. 47 year old PSU cap said I'm tired.
Now, I was lucky cuz' you can buy a reman. for a $100 (I did). I guess I would be real concerned about things that could kill trannies in these old rigs (caps).
Next, is the Hammond. I have reading much before hacking on the Hammond. On an interesting note, somebody has gone to the effort of having film caps made in the correct values (non-standard) for the 40 some-odd tank circuits used in the tone generator. His claim, and it makes sense, is it that you will actually hear the Hammond as it sounded the day it left factory. I did measure the old wax paper originals... 20 to 40% higher capacitance, and leakage currents through the roof.
All in all... it's a fine line.
I run across an old Mac or other vintage gear occasionally (not so often anymore). I also found a guy who buys, restores, and resells vintage Mac gear. He informed me that he would pay more money for an untouched original Mac than one that had been repaired (even if it was repaired correctly). I found a very rusty MC40 amp in a warehouse several years ago. I got it working and sold it to the collector. In this case it was a good decision because I could demonstrate that the transformers were good. This was so rusty that it was going to be parted out. The collector informed me that usually he would rather the amp be untouched. When ever I find that kind of equipment, I flip it and use the cash to buy more tube stuff like transformers, tubes and caps. Then I can build whatever I want.
If you are thinking of selling these units, leave them alone. They are worth too much money to mess with. This advice is coming from the guy who ripped out that numbers matching 318 and stuffed in a 440 because I like the smell of tire smoke in the morning! So, they are yours, do what you want, but these are not wimpy 318 powered audio toys, they came with Hemis, and can command Hemi prices.
If you are thinking of selling these units, leave them alone. They are worth too much money to mess with. This advice is coming from the guy who ripped out that numbers matching 318 and stuffed in a 440 because I like the smell of tire smoke in the morning! So, they are yours, do what you want, but these are not wimpy 318 powered audio toys, they came with Hemis, and can command Hemi prices.
anatech said:Hey Gene,
Those "resistors" between the output sockets are actually chokes. They are fine.
Your amp is in really nice condition. I would either rebuild it with new parts or sell it and build a new amp. The HF-87 sounds better anyway, so copy that.
-Chris
Those are chokes??? Im not spring chicken,, But I can honestly say I have never seen chokes like that HAHA.
I have been using an old POS SE EL84 Zenith for ages in my music room, My original plan was to upgrade to the project Tubelab has been working on. So you can imagine how excited I was when I found these units.
The Physical condition being insanely clean. The only downfall has been that when the owner passed on, His wife never even plugged them in. Her daughter moved her from Cali to Illinois 15 years ago, And these units sat in a really nice cabinet ever since the move, untouched.
They dropped off the Mcintosh paper a couple days ago, and hung out for a bit. Sara and the lady I bought it from are both teachers, so they are cackling like hens in the nest.
Soul searching here.
I'll meter out the Mc, and see whats needed.
Is the old resistor bad???
Its crumbling!
Actually turning to dust haha
Gene
Edit, Next test I will pull all the tubes, Put the new fuse in and get voltages all over the power supply.
I suspect caps but Seeing as it has a bleeder resistor present, I should at least see if they charge or are shorted.
Hi Gene,
Gene, make sure you don't run the amp up to full voltage without the outputs installed. You need a variac for this.
-Chris
So true.Just for the record, there are different materials used for NTCs, but I'm sure in your case you have the right part.
Gene, make sure you don't run the amp up to full voltage without the outputs installed. You need a variac for this.
-Chris
anatech said:Hi Gene,
So true.
Gene, make sure you don't run the amp up to full voltage without the outputs installed. You need a variac for this.
-Chris
Outputs? Do you mean speakers? or tubes?
I am pretty sure the fuse blows are PS caps. Seeing as AES sells basically the correct caps, I think I'll just go ahead and get them.
OK So get this,
Rather than beat myself up more on the Marantz Series 7 Pre-amp not having a scope.
I decided heck, Take it to Deltronics and have them trace it out with a scope.
A mere $20.00 for complete diagnostic.
I call the place up today to check on its status and the news that follows is a head scratcher.
intermitent socket contact! GRRRR
He moved the tube, the channel came back and has not failed since!! Told me to just pick it up, Clean the sockets a bit with de-oxit and I am good to go.
The Basics sure can be a headache!!
Rather than beat myself up more on the Marantz Series 7 Pre-amp not having a scope.
I decided heck, Take it to Deltronics and have them trace it out with a scope.
A mere $20.00 for complete diagnostic.
I call the place up today to check on its status and the news that follows is a head scratcher.
intermitent socket contact! GRRRR
He moved the tube, the channel came back and has not failed since!! Told me to just pick it up, Clean the sockets a bit with de-oxit and I am good to go.
The Basics sure can be a headache!!
poobah said:First law of Hammond organ repair... wiggle all tubes with power on.
I repeatedly wiggled tubes power on, Swapped them several times, Replaced them entirely 2 times, It never worked more than 1 minute the only 2 or 3 times B channel came back.
I even went so far as to bend the pins slightly to assure a snug fit.
I suspect that I will get it back, Clean the sockets up with de-oxeit
and will be back to square 1. It has been narrowed down to socket 5 (V5) which I had already estabilished prior to taking it there.
They claim it ran several hours without issue?
Interesting.
Gene
Hey Gene,
I can't tell you how many times I had that happen with equipment. We even did everything we could to "irritate" the unit and it wouldn't fail. I believe the poor guy.
Yes, we already knew it was V5, but there was some confusion between the schematic and the unit . Could be the heater contacts.
Remember:
-Chris
You must have taken it to real service shop!They claim it ran several hours without issue?
I can't tell you how many times I had that happen with equipment. We even did everything we could to "irritate" the unit and it wouldn't fail. I believe the poor guy.
Yes, we already knew it was V5, but there was some confusion between the schematic and the unit . Could be the heater contacts.
Remember:
and ......So Gene, no matter what we say, always go back to basics and check everything. No matter how convinced you are that you already checked something.
also ......This morning it worked briefly then faded out so somethings clearly still not correct.
Go back and review everything you found out. Confirm the facts and look at it again.Take a small solder pick (thin metal rod, almost a needle point) and tighten up the contacts in the tube socket.
-Chris
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