Great link to the Quasimodo! Thank you!
I remember that separating the PSU was a common advice for improving the noise performance of gear using a linear PSU and I guess that it should be interesting to try the differences in a NCore implementation. Of course it all depends also in how the implementation is done (proper psu cable shielding and impedance), nevertheless it seems potentially interesting (at least to me).
Perhaps it's a too dumb idea and that's the reason why I could never be able to find a commercial implementation of it
I remember that separating the PSU was a common advice for improving the noise performance of gear using a linear PSU and I guess that it should be interesting to try the differences in a NCore implementation. Of course it all depends also in how the implementation is done (proper psu cable shielding and impedance), nevertheless it seems potentially interesting (at least to me).
Perhaps it's a too dumb idea and that's the reason why I could never be able to find a commercial implementation of it
Great link to the Quasimodo! Thank you!
I remember that separating the PSU was a common advice for improving the noise performance of gear using a linear PSU and I guess that it should be interesting to try the differences in a NCore implementation. Of course it all depends also in how the implementation is done (proper psu cable shielding and impedance), nevertheless it seems potentially interesting (at least to me).
Perhaps it's a too dumb idea and that's the reason why I could never be able to find a commercial implementation of it
All depends on what sort of noise you are trying to avoid. Again I prefer to first find out what the problem is (and if there is one) before trying to solve it
Hi,
I searched a bit and, together with the many papers about the continuous raise of RF noise level, found this paper very informative (at least to me) http://www.hypex.nl/docs/appnotes/EMI_appnote.pdf
I searched a bit and, together with the many papers about the continuous raise of RF noise level, found this paper very informative (at least to me) http://www.hypex.nl/docs/appnotes/EMI_appnote.pdf
Yes, it is a good and informative paper, but there will always be those who think they know better...
and/or remember what the had learnt, in my case
I have the same problem. Let's see, the first sign of approaching Alzheimer's is... uh... hold on...
Rather basic problem...
Hi guys,
First diy project, and I need some help...
I'm building an active two-way system, using one SMPS-600 and two NC400s per speaker. I got the Ghent NC400 SE cases, and boy are they tight to fit everything in!
I've now got everything in place, but I can't manage to solder the internal speaker wire (2.5 mm² solid core copper wire) to the speaker binding posts; I cannot even tin the binding posts!
I guess my soldering iron (a Weller, 40W, max. temp. 450 °C) is not powerful enough to heat the binding post properly. Or would I benefit from a larger soldering tip (more heat transfer thru larger contact area)? Other tips 'n tricks?
A very basic issue, I know... But oh so important if I want to make the amp play some music!
PS: I'll post some pics as soon as the soldering issue is solved!
Hi guys,
First diy project, and I need some help...
I'm building an active two-way system, using one SMPS-600 and two NC400s per speaker. I got the Ghent NC400 SE cases, and boy are they tight to fit everything in!
I've now got everything in place, but I can't manage to solder the internal speaker wire (2.5 mm² solid core copper wire) to the speaker binding posts; I cannot even tin the binding posts!
I guess my soldering iron (a Weller, 40W, max. temp. 450 °C) is not powerful enough to heat the binding post properly. Or would I benefit from a larger soldering tip (more heat transfer thru larger contact area)? Other tips 'n tricks?
A very basic issue, I know... But oh so important if I want to make the amp play some music!
PS: I'll post some pics as soon as the soldering issue is solved!
Yes, a drop of solder to the iron first. Then I heat the outside of the binding post (well, the inside of the chassis, obviously, but the 'convex' side of the binding post). The tip is the standard tip the soldering station came with. Looks like a small screwdriver.
Maybe I need to try a little longer?
Maybe I need to try a little longer?
If you can, heat the binding post first with a butane jet flame lighter
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New Jet Flame Refillable Butane Gas Cigarette Cigar Windproof Trip Torch Lighter | eBay
As others have suggested, you need a more powerful iron for that job -- at least I did.
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