went ahead and connected nampon to chassis.
Powered on the amplifier. I hear it play.
Spectacular!!
Its playing in place of a very nice Marantz integrated amplifier. I am not one of those who can usually make out subtle SQ differences. But this amp just feels effortless, i can honestly say i do find it better.
Even if there is no SQ difference, these module are tiny and super efficient.
Hats off Mr. Putzeys.
Powered on the amplifier. I hear it play.
Spectacular!!
Its playing in place of a very nice Marantz integrated amplifier. I am not one of those who can usually make out subtle SQ differences. But this amp just feels effortless, i can honestly say i do find it better.
Even if there is no SQ difference, these module are tiny and super efficient.
Hats off Mr. Putzeys.
can i connect to chassis?
Yes, unless your chassis is floating. But any ground (the shield of the input audio cable, or power supply ground) will do.
The basic precaution is making sure the power supplies work OK (measure the voltages) before connecting them to the amps.Please suggest some basic tests to avoid sending it up in smoke as i power them on.
ah, is there a selector for 230 vs 110 V
No, the power supply handles it automatically.
here is the first of 2 nc400 amps and 2 ucd400 amps under construction.
Unfortunately I don't seem to be able to view a larger version of the picture.
[Edit: seems the picture jpg file is somehow broken - it has a non-JPEG header)
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adding the picture again
Still doesn't work in firefox, but I did get it to load in chrome.
Looks nice and tidy!
The chassis does get a bit warm after about an hour of music.
How warm? Do you have an IR thermometer, or some way to measure the temperature inside the chassis?
Still doesn't work in firefox, but I did get it to load in chrome.
Looks nice and tidy!
How warm? Do you have an IR thermometer, or some way to measure the temperature inside the chassis?
I am measuring 109F/43C inside the chassis. This is with a kitchen thermometer
Ambient today in San Jose is around 86F/30C
I had sanded off the anodization around the XLR mouting, however i did not do that where the ncore modules are placed on the bottom plate.
Does it make sense to unmount and sand the area out? I have to handle the messy heasink paste carefully, dont want any smears to cause shorts on the SMDs.
Does it make sense to unmount and sand the area out? I have to handle the messy heasink paste carefully, dont want any smears to cause shorts on the SMDs.
Just curious and looking only for opinions.
According to experts here, do you think the ncore implements many breakthrough innovations or 'secret sauce' compared to a textbook Class-D?
I am sure lots of iterations and measurements went into achieving the final circuit, but there must be something really clever that sets it apart?
According to experts here, do you think the ncore implements many breakthrough innovations or 'secret sauce' compared to a textbook Class-D?
I am sure lots of iterations and measurements went into achieving the final circuit, but there must be something really clever that sets it apart?
Just curious and looking only for opinions.
According to experts here, do you think the ncore implements many breakthrough innovations or 'secret sauce' compared to a textbook Class-D?
I am sure lots of iterations and measurements went into achieving the final circuit, but there must be something really clever that sets it apart?
I guess you haven't read Hugo's papers? http://www.hypex.nl/docs/papers/globally.pdf is a good start.
No 'secret sauce', but definitely some good engineering and some breakthroughs in understanding and implementing the feedback theory.
I am measuring 109F/43C inside the chassis. This is with a kitchen thermometer
43C isn't too bad - but a few more ventilation holes would not hurt either. Hypex specifies the maximum heat sink temperature as 80C.
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I guess you haven't read Hugo's papers? http://www.hypex.nl/docs/papers/globally.pdf is a good start.
No 'secret sauce', but definitely some good engineering and some breakthroughs in understanding and implementing the feedback theory.
Thanks. Will read that.
I had sanded off the anodization around the XLR mouting, however i did not do that where the ncore modules are placed on the bottom plate.
Does it make sense to unmount and sand the area out? I have to handle the messy heasink paste carefully, dont want any smears to cause shorts on the SMDs.
I wouldn't bother with the sanding, as long as you have a proper chassis connection through the audio input cable and XLR connector.
I wouldn't bother with the sanding, as long as you have a proper chassis connection through the audio input cable and XLR connector.
I think I have done that right. I was considering sanding for thermal reason.
I am going to add the ventilation holes, but wanted to make sure the build is right in aspects needed to ensure long term usage
i am probably overthinking this. But the anode coat is pretty good on this chassis and they are not the best conductors of heat and current. Further i did a bit of a sloppy job with the heat sink past under one of the modules.
I am going to factor most of the learning into the second amp that i will work on as i find time
I am going to factor most of the learning into the second amp that i will work on as i find time
I guess you haven't read Hugo's papers?
I hope that didn't come across as condescending - it wasn't meant that way. It is just that many of us chose the hypex amps specifically because of Hugo's excellent engineering papers - and the nice thing is that he shares his discoveries and results openly (in conference papers and technical publications, as well as on the net) - no "secret sauce" or voodoo, but open, peer-reviewed application of science.
i am probably overthinking this. But the anode coat is pretty good on this chassis and they are not the best conductors of heat and current. Further i did a bit of a sloppy job with the heat sink past under one of the modules.
I would not worry with a chassis with only two amps and one PS - I have to be a bit more careful, with 4 amps and 2 smps's in one chassis.
The fact that your chassis gets warm shows that it is actually conducting heat pretty well. What you don't want is a really hot heat sink/board, and totally cool chassis...
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