now there's a pair of speakers that will be able to judge the low end.
I don't think you will have any problems at all. start with a single amp driving the whole speaker and see how it sounds. Then, since you have two pair, try the bi-amp into the different sections of the crossover, better? No? decide if its enough of a change to warrant the money and space for you. They are easy to set up for evaluation with the cable set provided, you just need to terminate the input and attach some speaker feeds, put an AC plug on it and thats it for testing.
3.7 ohms is a breeze for this amp.
I wouldn't try bridging the amps, not the intended design, would it work? maybe, but I'm sure not optimally. Maybe Bruno will give a kind few words on the subject.
its DIY, have fun trying it!
Salon 2s love to be biamped. In my experience with high powered, high quality solid-state amps (Jeff Rowland, ML) Salon 2s have always benefitted from bi-amping - assuming the amps and cables are identical. The improvement holds true at low power levels as well.
I am planning to use a single cable feed. So you're saying that it don't need extra twisting because the leads are already twisted. So the already twisted leads should be (twisted) enough? That surely makes handling a lot easier.
If one were interested in swinging a larger voltage then it is possible to bridge 2 ncores, correct>
I am thinking of an electrostat, a capacitive load ~ 11ohms @ 1khz dropping to 3 ohms @ 20khz.
Not a lot of current required above 10k since the signals typically are not that large with music.
The NCore eats 2 ohm loads easily and If i remember correctly even 1 ohm loads, so shouldn't be a problem =)
Apart from being audiophiles, i think most of the people here are stuff-o-philes aswell, and at least me, i'm dying for a pic of your complete setup
Just ordered 2 Pcs. NC400 and 2 Pcs. SMPS600. It seems that it is still from the week 11 batch.
I am curious if they can outperform my current Marantz SM-11S1 which has "rave reviews" and is actually very good. My speakers (Magnepan 3.6R with modified x-over) are very "power hungry" though and could use a bit extra power. And the Marantz will sell for more money than the new NCore's will cost.
I will post my experiences when I have the NCore's up and running!
I am curious if they can outperform my current Marantz SM-11S1 which has "rave reviews" and is actually very good. My speakers (Magnepan 3.6R with modified x-over) are very "power hungry" though and could use a bit extra power. And the Marantz will sell for more money than the new NCore's will cost.
I will post my experiences when I have the NCore's up and running!
Also ordered 2 of those enclosures
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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I now have impedance measurements of my speaker, though it dropped lower than I thought in the tweeter region it shouldn't be that bad since if I remember that Nelson said that the Aleph J works fine with 4 ohm, though it can output less power with such loads.
If you readers here want to I can parallel both my Aleph Js and redo my test, for if I have understood correctly that would give each amplifier an easier load than 4 ohm.
If you readers here want to I can parallel both my Aleph Js and redo my test, for if I have understood correctly that would give each amplifier an easier load than 4 ohm.
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Hello all, wanted introduce myself as I am new to the board and to diy audio in general. I dove into this thread shortly after a friend lent me a UcD180HG+HxR based amp. I'd never heard a Hypex amp before, nor one with a switching power supply, and didn't know what to expect. I ended up being smitten by the neutrality, even-handedness and very fine, almost absent, texture. I decided to build one for myself and began doing some research. I now have 2 NC400's and one SMPS600 on order.
Since the most complex thing I've ever soldered is a passive attenuator, I've been doing a LOT of searching/reading on this board and others to make sure I'm approaching the build the right way. Still, I am not 100% sure of my conclusions (even to simple questions). Would any of you experienced folk be willing to take a look at the following diagram and let me know whether it would be the optimal (or even just correct...) way to wire both XLR and RCA inputs in a grounded chassis? I left out the connections between the SMPS and the amp modules for clarity.
Thanks!
Since the most complex thing I've ever soldered is a passive attenuator, I've been doing a LOT of searching/reading on this board and others to make sure I'm approaching the build the right way. Still, I am not 100% sure of my conclusions (even to simple questions). Would any of you experienced folk be willing to take a look at the following diagram and let me know whether it would be the optimal (or even just correct...) way to wire both XLR and RCA inputs in a grounded chassis? I left out the connections between the SMPS and the amp modules for clarity.
Thanks!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Hopefully somebody who knows exactly can take a look and give advice on your drawing. I asked the same thing but was only told multiple times to just run the balanced, though i'd still like to have both without having to make/buy a xlr->rca cable to use the unbalanced. Since i'm in Canada and SHOULD ground the chassis my setup will be exactly like yours, hopefully somebody in the know chimes in with regards to your drawing. By the way, in your drawing, is that a capacitor and resistor in parallel between the ground/chassis and outside of the rca?
Thanks
You want both xlr and rca inputs and are prepared to spend effort to get the best possible internal connection.
The data sheet (as well as various other sources and recommendations) says only do one or the other, Bruno has said in an earlier post to use a switch if you want both sockets in the same chassis
So if you do want both inputs, why not follow the advice and spend the effort you would spend on getting both sockets into the chassis by wiring up (or buying) an excellent pair of rca to xlr converters with just an xlr socket on the chassis. The end result is the same and the quality of both are optimized.
Being told multiple times to stick with xlr was a bit of a hint
The data sheet (as well as various other sources and recommendations) says only do one or the other, Bruno has said in an earlier post to use a switch if you want both sockets in the same chassis
So if you do want both inputs, why not follow the advice and spend the effort you would spend on getting both sockets into the chassis by wiring up (or buying) an excellent pair of rca to xlr converters with just an xlr socket on the chassis. The end result is the same and the quality of both are optimized.
Being told multiple times to stick with xlr was a bit of a hint
Thanks for your reply. I'm not suggesting that a single XLR input per channel is not the best solution. I am trying to solve for the least worst solution in the event the amp has to be connected with an RCA-terminated cable. The adapter's a good suggestion. I thought a chassis mounted jack would be better based on two assumptions:
- It would allow an unbalanced input to be wired as per 12.3.3 in the NC400 data sheet, which is recommended with a grounded chassis
- If separated by a switch, the presence of the RCA jack would not affect the amp's performance when taking a signal from the XLR. (Aside from there being an extra switch in the XLR's path)
I am more than happy to go with the cheaper, simpler adapter if I my assumptions are wrong
- It would allow an unbalanced input to be wired as per 12.3.3 in the NC400 data sheet, which is recommended with a grounded chassis
- If separated by a switch, the presence of the RCA jack would not affect the amp's performance when taking a signal from the XLR. (Aside from there being an extra switch in the XLR's path)
I am more than happy to go with the cheaper, simpler adapter if I my assumptions are wrong
Hi Everyone,
Another question for those that know more than me.
Im planning on using a chassis constructed from anodized aluminum for my ncore. Since the anodized layer is a good insulator, should I setup a seperate ground plane? (In order to handle the conductive hole for 'better EMI performance' on the smps as well as to ground the xlr pin and the amp ground rather than just floating everything)
If I should setup a ground plane, any pointers on how to keep it from acting like an antenna?
Another question for those that know more than me.
Im planning on using a chassis constructed from anodized aluminum for my ncore. Since the anodized layer is a good insulator, should I setup a seperate ground plane? (In order to handle the conductive hole for 'better EMI performance' on the smps as well as to ground the xlr pin and the amp ground rather than just floating everything)
If I should setup a ground plane, any pointers on how to keep it from acting like an antenna?
anodized AL is an excellent insulator, when in good shape. You don't need to have a separate ground plane, you need to ensure that the various pieces of AL are connected. That means removing the anodizing under the screws or any other place that wants to conduct. This can often be accomplished with just a star washer, but for my own gear I usually go to removal and a star washer.
(sandpaper or emery paper works well for removing anodizing, on the inside of the chassis of course!)
as per the RCA input switch connection.
Just make sure you keep the wire going to the chassis *short*, ie on the xlr conn, go from the pin 1 to the shell pin and also I like to back it up with a wire to the mounting screw to give a back up ground path. XLR shells need to be mounted well to make sure they connect to the chassis well and in a manner that will not oxidize over time. The newer Neutrik connectors often have a series of "spikes" on the back of the shell to make a good connection to the chassis to ward off pin 1 problems. Not sure which series is best at this off the top of my head. This is all about rejecting noise and RFI (or EMC, chose your own verbage)
having the RCA on board will make installing it in other peoples system easier, but you will have an extra switch in line and using the RCA to XLR cable does give more noise rejection (how much depends on a lot of local conditions)
Cheers and have fun
Alan Garren
(sandpaper or emery paper works well for removing anodizing, on the inside of the chassis of course!)
as per the RCA input switch connection.
Just make sure you keep the wire going to the chassis *short*, ie on the xlr conn, go from the pin 1 to the shell pin and also I like to back it up with a wire to the mounting screw to give a back up ground path. XLR shells need to be mounted well to make sure they connect to the chassis well and in a manner that will not oxidize over time. The newer Neutrik connectors often have a series of "spikes" on the back of the shell to make a good connection to the chassis to ward off pin 1 problems. Not sure which series is best at this off the top of my head. This is all about rejecting noise and RFI (or EMC, chose your own verbage)
having the RCA on board will make installing it in other peoples system easier, but you will have an extra switch in line and using the RCA to XLR cable does give more noise rejection (how much depends on a lot of local conditions)
Cheers and have fun
Alan Garren
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I did a review a few pages ago when comparing my Aleph Js against the NCore, I got feedback that maybe my speaker was the issue since I found the Aleph J topend to be lacking and my speaker went down to 4 ohm in the top end.
So... I couldn't resist to test again and parallel both my Aleph Js like in the picture which should turn the lowest load from 4 ohm to 8 ohm per amp. And 8 ohm should not be a problem for the Alephs and then comparing this to the NCore.
After comparing I don't have much to say other than that the top end was still lacking compared to the NCore, though I think the difference was smaller than with only one Aleph J. Even if I remember correctly and the Aleph J with an 8 ohm load and double amplifiers for less distortion sounds better than a single one in 4 ohms it doesn't really matter since they even then sounded worse than my NCore =)
// Olle
So... I couldn't resist to test again and parallel both my Aleph Js like in the picture which should turn the lowest load from 4 ohm to 8 ohm per amp. And 8 ohm should not be a problem for the Alephs and then comparing this to the NCore.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
After comparing I don't have much to say other than that the top end was still lacking compared to the NCore, though I think the difference was smaller than with only one Aleph J. Even if I remember correctly and the Aleph J with an 8 ohm load and double amplifiers for less distortion sounds better than a single one in 4 ohms it doesn't really matter since they even then sounded worse than my NCore =)
// Olle
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