My nCore's are currently set up in stereo. I am getting a second SMPS 600 only because I want to locate my nCores close to my speakers. I will put them into a stereo chassis, however, to preserve the option to add a second set of nCores if I elect to take my speakers active. The one SMPS 600 was more than sufficient to power both nCores on my high efficiency speakers. I prefer long IC's and short speaker cables.
I listened to the nCores for about 10 hours order the weekend....no listener fatigue.
earflappin, did you ground your chassis to earth or are you floating it?
Also, If I want the option of balanced and unbalanced inputs on the amp, is there an easy way to do so with a selector switch like most amps or are the connections ok to be wired in parallel with each other and not isolated by a switch?
Also, If I want the option of balanced and unbalanced inputs on the amp, is there an easy way to do so with a selector switch like most amps or are the connections ok to be wired in parallel with each other and not isolated by a switch?
Got any photo's for us perhaps, Earflappin?
Maybe with some detailed ones where we can see the wiring?
Sorry guys...don't have an pics to share and I have already boxed my nCores up to send to a friend to audition....
Let me just say it is dead easy to wire these up and I ran mine for days on a maple shelf. Let me try to summarize the connections required.
Input Power - two wire cable provided with SMPS 600 with 2 pin connector on one end and bare wire on the other. Just solder to an IEC connector. The SMPS 600 is fused so no power switch required.
Power to nCores - the SMPS comes with a cable with 12 pin molex connectors on both ends so if you have one SMPS per nCore you just plug and play. In my situation I had to create a Y cable. Each nCore comes with a power cable with a 12 pin connector on one end and bare wire on the other. You can use these to create the Y cable. I used screw terminals as an interim step until I get my chassis.
Input Signal to nCores - each nCore comes with a cable with a 4 pin molex on one end and bare wire on the other. One wire is nAMPON and must we wired low for the amp to turn on. The shield is to be wired to ground. The other 2 are for signal. I wired the nAMPON to ground with the shield. All of this is spelled out clearly in the very through data sheet which comes with the units and can be found on the web store.
Speaker Connections - each nCore has 2 very robust gold screw terminals which are large enough to accommodate a biwire configuration.
Hope this helps a bit. I'm sure others will post some pictures.
Robbbby, I have no chassis yet....just a maple shelf...
. I run XLR's and the nCores signal ground is tied to XLR pin 1. I'll let someone from HYpex answer your other question although I seem to recall that coming up somewhere in this mega long thread.
Hi all,
The discussion about enclosure seems to have died, but i did not.
- hifi2000/modushop enclosure, the slimline 01/350 (internal 415x350x40)
- 6x nCore (Linkwitzlab Orion) upside down for better cooling
- 1 or 2x smps400 (smps600 wont fit for its heigth)
- backside with all Neutrik Powercon/Speakon and jack/xlr connections
- modular front with changeable modable black plastic plate
What do you guys think?
The discussion about enclosure seems to have died, but i did not.
- hifi2000/modushop enclosure, the slimline 01/350 (internal 415x350x40)
- 6x nCore (Linkwitzlab Orion) upside down for better cooling
- 1 or 2x smps400 (smps600 wont fit for its heigth)
- backside with all Neutrik Powercon/Speakon and jack/xlr connections
- modular front with changeable modable black plastic plate
What do you guys think?
Attachments
I asked this question here before, and the answer is you can place the two as close as you like.
@ZAP4EVER, with reference to the data sheet (http://www.hypex.nl/docs/NC400_datasheet.pdf) could you indicate how I can improve on the clarity of sections 7.3 (p5, where it states the pinout of J9), 8.3 (p5, where it says how to turn the amp on) and 12.2 (p11, where the correct way of connecting unbalanced inputs is given)? If you could tell me which bits are vague, ambiguous -or missing!- I can improve the data sheet. When one writes data sheets there's always the danger of assuming what the reader does and doesn't already know so I need this sort of feedback to present the information in an as clear as possible way.
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@Bruno
I think what people might like to see is a 'get going in 15 minutes for the impatient' kind of addendum. So a full wiring diagram (or pictures) for dummies that will allow you to spin your ncore modules without reading two manuals front to back.
Your manuals are good but seem to be written for professionals who are going to read pinouts from tables etc. Where manuals aimed at DIY often use color codings, pictures, 'hook this wire up here' kind of directions.
I think what people might like to see is a 'get going in 15 minutes for the impatient' kind of addendum. So a full wiring diagram (or pictures) for dummies that will allow you to spin your ncore modules without reading two manuals front to back.
Your manuals are good but seem to be written for professionals who are going to read pinouts from tables etc. Where manuals aimed at DIY often use color codings, pictures, 'hook this wire up here' kind of directions.
Here are two pictures of my 10 minute bodge job to get my ncore's going as quickly as possible. Not recommended but I'm sure there are others out there that can't wait to finish their cases first after waiting for weeks Just to make sure: Do not touch any part of the power supply when running or within 10 minutes after running!
And a picture showing the detail of wiring the input + nAmpon wire.
Just to make sure: Do not touch any part of the power supply when running or within 10 minutes after running!An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
And a picture showing the detail of wiring the input + nAmpon wire.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Check our webshop Hypex Electronics B.V. Webshop, there is written quite clear there is no stock and next batch is available wk11. This is in week March 12 to 16th.
Thanks for your fast reply.
I also think that we have come very far compared to early class-D DIY kit.
But there’s still room for improvement.
Houston we have a problem J
Problem is that I’m an IT guy doing this together with a mechanic
So when you use terms as “setting something low” it does not “compute” in our world.
But we managed to connect everything without problems (we have built quit a few different amps. By now using plane logic) but how to connect the J9 Mole/pin2 is not described good enough.
Same goes for the drawing showing how to connect NC400 to speaker terminals – problem is that it lacks detail information (for people like me) – you are not able to distinguish if the two ground wires needs to be wired to the ground terminal on the line in terminal or to the chassis of the cabinet (drawings are not detailed enough or lacks some additional clarification – even though Bruno has tried to describe the scenario it’s still a bit technical)
We are building this on an experimental plate (so to speak) which means that we don’t have any ground (or cabinet). So ground has to be found somewhere else?
Would actually be nice if someone could draw a more detail drawing showing how J9 Audio Input on Nc400 should connect and pls. use the PIN numbers on the J9 mole connection and not the color or shape of the cable/wires – we know how to identify the single wires coming out of the J9 Mole J
So….
J9 Mole
Pin 1 goes to the positive pole on the phono connection
Pin 2 goes to the ground connection on the phono connection
Pin 3 goes to some kind of ground to be low (exactly where? – pls. state molex no./pin no)
Pin 4 Passive ground should have gone to the cabinet – which means it will not be used until mounted in a cabinet.
Really appreciate your effort helping us…. Hope that you are patient enough to help us the last few miles.
Regards
Here are two pictures of my 10 minute bodge job to get my ncore's going as quickly as possible. Not recommended but I'm sure there are others out there that can't wait to finish their cases first after waiting for weeks
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
And a picture showing the detail of wiring the input + nAmpon wire.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Really appreciate you effort
Normally a picture says more than a 1.000 words but we (I) need a drawing and explanation.
We would very much like to implement you solution – but the picture isn’t good enough to distinguish exactly how you have done the wiring and which function the on/off switch actual accomplish?
Will you be able to provide a more detail description which is understandable by someone who is not having a technical degree of electronic diploma J
What the second photo shows is
J9 Pin 1 (=red wire) connects to centre pin of RCA.
J9 Pin 2 (=white wire) connects to outer part of RCA.
J9 Pin 3 (separate black wire) connects to outer part of RCA (optionally via switch to allow mute/unmute but you can connect it directly as well).
J9 Pin 4 (braided shield around the red and white wires) connects to outer part of RCA.
Now, when you build the whole thing into a stereo chassis, please remove the white insulating material from the RCA. It has to make contact with the chassis (see figure 4). For mono chassis or for "zero chassis" it is less critical but still a good idea to insure solid contact between RCA and chassis. When using RCA, do not connect mains earth to chassis as well. If you do want to connect mains earth, you're down to the more complicated version of figure 5.
@Arend-jan, I tried to make those "this wire goes here" drawings, they are figures 2, 4 and 5. Is there something I could improve there as well?
J9 Pin 1 (=red wire) connects to centre pin of RCA.
J9 Pin 2 (=white wire) connects to outer part of RCA.
J9 Pin 3 (separate black wire) connects to outer part of RCA (optionally via switch to allow mute/unmute but you can connect it directly as well).
J9 Pin 4 (braided shield around the red and white wires) connects to outer part of RCA.
Now, when you build the whole thing into a stereo chassis, please remove the white insulating material from the RCA. It has to make contact with the chassis (see figure 4). For mono chassis or for "zero chassis" it is less critical but still a good idea to insure solid contact between RCA and chassis. When using RCA, do not connect mains earth to chassis as well. If you do want to connect mains earth, you're down to the more complicated version of figure 5.
@Arend-jan, I tried to make those "this wire goes here" drawings, they are figures 2, 4 and 5. Is there something I could improve there as well?
I think that we finally got it - thanks a lot for the fast reply. We will send you a suggestion about how these drawing could be done (more understandable).
Kind regards
well I love it when I get the occasion of using this line: "thanks for the life changing comment"
me? I like it and I think it makes sense. pardon me if I think that many pages spent discussing soldering/desoldering SMD resistors or how to connect pin A to B don't make sense, maybe I'm the weird one.
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