Hey Shpoop,
I hope it's become more clear as this thread has progressed, but if it hasn't, maybe I can shed some more light on it.
From your cases, it looks like there are different ways you want to possibly set up your system.
This sounds like you want one channel to drive 4 drivers, set up in 2 parallel groups (each group has 2 drivers in series). This is kind of like having one "speaker" at 8 ohms handling 60W.
However, if you wanted to have them split into stereo, with 2 channels for the system (one channel for each of the previous parallel group), then you would have 2 "speakers" 16 ohms each at 30W/channel.
So, IMO, your best bet would be to get a 2 channel amplifier capable of ~75W/channel @ 8 ohms, and set them up so each channel gets 2 drivers in series for stereo sound. However, I'm not sure that's what you really wanted.
Now, this depends on many situations, as the previous posters have all explained (how loud you want to play them, etc.).
Good luck, and I love your wine bottle speaker projects!
I hope it's become more clear as this thread has progressed, but if it hasn't, maybe I can shed some more light on it.
From your cases, it looks like there are different ways you want to possibly set up your system.
This sounds like you want one channel to drive 4 drivers, set up in 2 parallel groups (each group has 2 drivers in series). This is kind of like having one "speaker" at 8 ohms handling 60W.
However, if you wanted to have them split into stereo, with 2 channels for the system (one channel for each of the previous parallel group), then you would have 2 "speakers" 16 ohms each at 30W/channel.
So, IMO, your best bet would be to get a 2 channel amplifier capable of ~75W/channel @ 8 ohms, and set them up so each channel gets 2 drivers in series for stereo sound. However, I'm not sure that's what you really wanted.
Now, this depends on many situations, as the previous posters have all explained (how loud you want to play them, etc.).
Good luck, and I love your wine bottle speaker projects!
On a similar note, without starting a fresh thread,
If I have set of parallel speakers (main driver & tweeter in parallel ) and I want to hook up a another main driver (same as the first driver) for a rear driver in a bi pole speaker, amp is a single ended push-pull 30wx2@4ohm, or 23wx2@8ohm
this is for a pair of bd-pipes I want to build, cause I recon they will work ok in my room invironment, if I can't do bipole + tweeter, then will probably build a zigmahornet box instead.
speakers are rated 100w@8ohm@92db or something(single main & tweeter)
I know it's not a question someone will answer simply,, but I just read all the hooha on rms/speaker/parallel/serial arrangements on another audio forum I just lost the link, but anyway here's the Q:
1. build bd-pipes without the tweeter and just see how they sound in bipole.
2. build bd-pipes with 2 x main + 1 x tweeter = 8ohm/3 = 2.6ohm) I assume this would not be good for the amp?
3. build the zigmahornet with single main & tweeter.
If I have set of parallel speakers (main driver & tweeter in parallel ) and I want to hook up a another main driver (same as the first driver) for a rear driver in a bi pole speaker, amp is a single ended push-pull 30wx2@4ohm, or 23wx2@8ohm
this is for a pair of bd-pipes I want to build, cause I recon they will work ok in my room invironment, if I can't do bipole + tweeter, then will probably build a zigmahornet box instead.
speakers are rated 100w@8ohm@92db or something(single main & tweeter)
I know it's not a question someone will answer simply,, but I just read all the hooha on rms/speaker/parallel/serial arrangements on another audio forum I just lost the link, but anyway here's the Q:
1. build bd-pipes without the tweeter and just see how they sound in bipole.
2. build bd-pipes with 2 x main + 1 x tweeter = 8ohm/3 = 2.6ohm) I assume this would not be good for the amp?
3. build the zigmahornet with single main & tweeter.
Hi,
most speaker designers use an electrical crossover to mate the bass/mid with the treble.
If you use an 8ohm bass/mid and an 8ohm treble and add an 8ohm crossover then the result is an 8ohm speaker.
One can add a second driver in parallel to the first. (try two bass/mid drivers) and redesign the crossover from 8ohm to 4ohm+8ohm. This is a typical trick used by manufacturers to raise the sensitivity of the bass/mid to nearer the level of the treble driver.
One can go further and add a second treble driver.
Now we have a pair of bass/mids in parallel with an effective 4ohm impedance. Similarly the two treble drivers in parallel have an effective impedance of 4ohms.
Now design a 4ohm crossover.
What results is a four driver 4ohm speaker, that stresses any amplifier attached to it, more than any 8ohm speaker ever will. The added stress results in higher distortion and higher amplifier temperatures. If the amplifier were suitable for 4ohm loading then it should be reliable on the 4ohm loading.
most speaker designers use an electrical crossover to mate the bass/mid with the treble.
If you use an 8ohm bass/mid and an 8ohm treble and add an 8ohm crossover then the result is an 8ohm speaker.
One can add a second driver in parallel to the first. (try two bass/mid drivers) and redesign the crossover from 8ohm to 4ohm+8ohm. This is a typical trick used by manufacturers to raise the sensitivity of the bass/mid to nearer the level of the treble driver.
One can go further and add a second treble driver.
Now we have a pair of bass/mids in parallel with an effective 4ohm impedance. Similarly the two treble drivers in parallel have an effective impedance of 4ohms.
Now design a 4ohm crossover.
What results is a four driver 4ohm speaker, that stresses any amplifier attached to it, more than any 8ohm speaker ever will. The added stress results in higher distortion and higher amplifier temperatures. If the amplifier were suitable for 4ohm loading then it should be reliable on the 4ohm loading.
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