Or just look a few pages back on this thread...
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/182723-how-build-f5-10.html#post2515774
remember to use old fashioned light bulb, and not the new power saving kind
man, I had one that exploded with a scary bang, yesterday
imagine a power saving light bulb blown to pieces, completely
and really hard to remove the remains
pretty tedious when power to refrigerator and freezer is cut off
man, I had one that exploded with a scary bang, yesterday
imagine a power saving light bulb blown to pieces, completely
and really hard to remove the remains
pretty tedious when power to refrigerator and freezer is cut off
HI DeanTin you rock, thank you
I have been reading the ESP writeup on tranys and have realized that It seems to take me ages to absorb some of this mumbo jumbo ....
Try not to get upset, but I have to ask. Is there a guide/pic/post/advice/anything as to how to wire one of these trany's to a Cviller v1 CRC PSU board?
Yours sincerely
Dean
No, I am not trying to kill myself !!! Yes, I really want to build this bloody amp!!!!!!!
WHy not try building some simple amp for understanding all about power supply etc- as F5 is Class A beast with large transformer and heat to dissipate plus plenty of drilling/tapping and connecting MOSFET's which are static sensitive !
before spending quite lot of money on large transformers etc building a simple amp would help you understand basics you need to know in any amplifier building - I am not discouraging but expecting somebody to guide you step by step including electronic principle like Ohms law / active device charecteristics etc is a bit too much to expect in a forum like this
You need to use a DMM for measuring and troubleshooting when you build this /understand all the wiring and care in starting up the amplifier once you assemble all the parts. So get some experience - then reading large number of threads connected with F5 will be easy Get you really build this beast!
wish you luck in building this
kannan
60W incandesent is a good pick for the dim bulb. It was about the first thing I made to make powering up a new or repaired amp then I bought a variac to bring it up slow...plug and pray cost can pay for both.I bought my variac on Fleabay cheap enough....
Sacrificial lambs to the silicon gods may be few...
Regards, Elwood
Sacrificial lambs to the silicon gods may be few...
Regards, Elwood
Here is a pic from cviller's guide. This is for a single transformer with dual secondaries.
The complete guide is buried in the GB thread somewhere, or I can email it to you. Since it's apparently too big to upload, or I am just too dumb to do it.
I read the F5 manual at least 20( meh, read/50) or more times before beginning mine. This was my first build and it took a lot of reading and triple checking everything.
I hope this helps. Be safe and have fun.
jim
Great work team.
The Pic's were exactly what i was after Tin/Max I'm a visual kinda guy.
Tin, I have a copy of Nelsons F5 Manual on the desk next to me but I don't seem to have the detailed section on the power supply. Is there an updated copy going around, If so I have sent you my email address.
I already have the bulb/jig ready to go and my Conrad MF35/150 heat sinks arrived today so its full steam ahead.
Max, the Cviller guide would be a great reference to triple checking so yes please email me when you get a chance.
6L6, thanks for letting me hijack your thread. Hope we aren't too far off topic.
Cheer
Dean
The Pic's were exactly what i was after Tin/Max
I'm a visual kinda guy.Tin, I have a copy of Nelsons F5 Manual on the desk next to me but I don't seem to have the detailed section on the power supply. Is there an updated copy going around, If so I have sent you my email address.
I already have the bulb/jig ready to go and my Conrad MF35/150 heat sinks arrived today
so its full steam ahead.Max, the Cviller guide would be a great reference to triple checking so yes please email me when you get a chance.
6L6, thanks for letting me hijack your thread. Hope we aren't too far off topic.
Cheer
Dean
Now I am really confused?
If somebody who knows what they are doing wants to link to a unit they recommend I can just find the same thing in Aus.
Yes I am planing on taking every precaution and following nelsons manual VERY closely when building the F5
I replied directly to your first question ;
using these xformers , you mention in your first post , is perfectly OK
will you have 22 or 23 or 24Vdc per leg , finally , is completely irrelevant
labjr wasn't rude ; what he wrote is completely right and legitimate .
we may or we may not teach simplest basics here ;
nobody can demands that
it's matter of good will
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My best advice is to slow down.
Yes reading gets some answers.
Asking also gets some answers.
Experimenting fills in some of the gaps.
Start with a simple project. Experiment with it. Learn as you go along playing with your cheap simple project.
Save the expensive F5 for a little later. Start buying the parts, find good deals, some very expensive components can be bought secondhand. This could take a year. In that time you could be upto speed and no longer see it as Mumbo Jumbo.
BTW,
we have more than 170,000 Members, the majority of whom have no electrical training, never mind electronics.
I suspect that the proportion that are trained electronics engineers is far lower than 1%.
I am a Civil Engineer with a tiny bit of electrical training behind me. No electronics training.
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Dean,
No..... I used an eBay power supply board, from Asia. I also added another stage of RC to the filter, to stiffen the power supply. The wiring is relatively straight forward. You'll build one entire supply for an F5 with dual channels, or you'll build TWO entire (and isolated from one another) supplies if you build a "dual monoblock" amp. There is a schematic of the entire amp, to include the power supply, in the First Watt F5 "operating manual". You can find it on the First Watt website. Be careful and DOUBLE-CHECK the polarity of the rectifiers and capacitors (yes, capacitors can explode!) and recheck all your wiring. If you want to see some construction pics, I'd recommend 6L6's thread on building an F5, or my thread on my build (subtitled "Beautiful music...different drummer")
P.S. I'm running an Antek 400 VA transformer. The schematics refer to a 24V "rail" voltage. I'm running 22.4 VDC on each rail, into the amp boards (with my second RC stage resulting in about .25 V drop from the "standard" power supply configuraiton). The output is more than sufficient for high efficiency speakers, and the sound's fantastic....! Hope that helps.
Snag yourself a large Fosters "oil can" and some Marmite, and start soldering!
Eeerrrr...... I forgot we already were in 6L6's build thread on his F5.... (Duh). Feel free, to page back in this thread and look at some of his build pics (and/or check out mine.....)
P.S. Where in Aussie-land are you? I did almost two years in Woomera and "the Alice"......
Tunk 303
welcome aboard
Down't realy understand how an amplyfier can be simpler than the F5
2 mosfets 2 fets and what about 6 resistors?
But is trully much more than that.
One thing may be worth mentioning
If mains won't kill you a loaded capacitor may do.
So alwaise unplug the mains from the soket (no turning the switch off, may not be enough. There will be the time when you push it 2 times. I did that plenty of times and got away ligtley (probably solder iron caluses on firghen tips to tank for that).
And wait for the caps to discharge trough the bleeder resistors.
What bliping resistors?
The 2.2 K 3W resistors fitted in paralel to the suply (DC) rails.
DC is much more dangerous than AC as AC makes you shake so reflex get you out of trubles
DC make you contract the mscles once you grab you will not let go..
An just because you play with 48 or such wolts do not think that I am winding you up
Is the current that kils you.
If You read on past posts me and Ken mention a Residual current device (RCBO or RCD in queen english).
Well wort investing on it while you got the stabilizer weels on.
(sorry maybe last comment over the top but same of us use to get trown loaded capacitors while on our aprentiship just for a laugh)
No shame in wearing belt and suspenders much beter than your best suit and black tie.
Ps when you get told to read the Papa paper dont get anoied I have read that at least 50 times and each time I find sometink new.
welcome aboard
Down't realy understand how an amplyfier can be simpler than the F5
2 mosfets 2 fets and what about 6 resistors?
But is trully much more than that.
One thing may be worth mentioning
If mains won't kill you a loaded capacitor may do.
So alwaise unplug the mains from the soket (no turning the switch off, may not be enough. There will be the time when you push it 2 times. I did that plenty of times and got away ligtley (probably solder iron caluses on firghen tips to tank for that).
And wait for the caps to discharge trough the bleeder resistors.
What bliping resistors?
The 2.2 K 3W resistors fitted in paralel to the suply (DC) rails.
DC is much more dangerous than AC as AC makes you shake so reflex get you out of trubles
DC make you contract the mscles once you grab you will not let go..
An just because you play with 48 or such wolts do not think that I am winding you up
Is the current that kils you.
If You read on past posts me and Ken mention a Residual current device (RCBO or RCD in queen english).
Well wort investing on it while you got the stabilizer weels on.
(sorry maybe last comment over the top but same of us use to get trown loaded capacitors while on our aprentiship just for a laugh)
No shame in wearing belt and suspenders much beter than your best suit and black tie.
Ps when you get told to read the Papa paper dont get anoied I have read that at least 50 times and each time I find sometink new.
Quote >Which type of transformer do i need to run a stereo build?
More than 300VA and 18 V twins sec but in same cases less
In other cases more
Think Zen Mod may have ansvered that a couple of times.
Personaly 1000VA 20V is just bare minimum but I am posting this as I am shure it will provoke further debate.
This does not stiffen the power supply, it does make it weaker eg. resulting in a higher output impedance.
Franz
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Quote> Is that really appropriate? Seriously?
No is not apropiate at all.
Strange .
You should know me by now.
I like to have same fun and games but alwayse try to help (My first of the 2 post) and I am not scared for X nobodyneverpostedbeforebuttocorrectsomebodyelse (Just one word)
to corect me.
I just got there before the "and Co. crowd" and posted their tipical reply.
They must be smoking and stinking like blown diode bridges (nothing worst IMO stink wise)
Yes I was joking this is diy audio dedicated to help anybody learn the art of audio.
And I am chuffed that you picked this up.
No is not apropiate at all.
Strange .
You should know me by now.
I like to have same fun and games but alwayse try to help (My first of the 2 post) and I am not scared for X nobodyneverpostedbeforebuttocorrectsomebodyelse (Just one word)
to corect me.
I just got there before the "and Co. crowd" and posted their tipical reply.
They must be smoking and stinking like blown diode bridges (nothing worst IMO stink wise)
Yes I was joking this is diy audio dedicated to help anybody learn the art of audio.
And I am chuffed that you picked this up.
Welcome aboard and it looks like you are off to a good start. This is a frequently asked question. I would suggest first looking at the First Watt F5 service manual. There the basic layout is provided. As questions arise you can then search the threads. There is a ton of good infomation, but it will take some time.
Good luck!