Funny as in a hungry kitty.
She uses me for that.
Back to our regularly scheduled program. Horn damping wasn't it?
Michael, your youthful glow tells me you can't be out of your 50's so that makes us not too far apart.
true...but will it make a good horn better?
I just ordered one of these:
Horns
And i'm not sure it "needs" anything at all. But I really do want to CLD it. What should I buy to further deaden the fibreglass?
I don't have a link, but I remember Zilch fooling around with damping on the Econo-waveguide. It made a difference, but not much.
Zilch performed some measurements that illustrated the 511 ringing rather dramatically:
AudioKarma.org Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums - View Single Post - Z19 Crossover
Notice the "tail off" of the waterfall @ 2kHz, 5kHz, and 8kHz. Certainly damping mine made a huge difference.
I doubt it too, but it's DIY. I'm not making it to save money or to sell, I'm making it for me to have fun with. It won't hurt, just like mills resistors or air core inductors
- sure I can probably get 99.999% of the performance elsewise but... "eh". Because it was red, and Erich didn't seem to have any solid surface 18s lying around
.
Laughed myself through this whole thread. Renkis Heinz, Emilar, Radian, all the same people making them all. They were all together at one time, got in a fight and made three companies. Take an 811 Altec, cut the front in a straight line and you have an Emilar horn. Just a cut radial horn, mounted real easy in a flat box. piece of ..... Now for some sacrilegious something to think about. Take the Altec, 511 or 811 and cut the damned cells out. Put them in a box and fill it all with one part urethane foam for insulation and you will kill the ringing of the metal. Still light and it will stick no problem. Got more money and not afraid of making a mess get a two part urethane foam and mix that an pour. Got 311 horns leave them alone they are going to worth to much but cutting the cells out on that works also. How do I know so much about urethane. done it for over thirty years. I actually owned the patent for any foamed plastic horn lens, never sued anyone but I guess I could have made a fortune doing that.... and yes the throat of the Altec horns is not the best, but it was the best they knew how to do at the time. Just keep me laughing this is a great thread. TAD drivers are just JBL Alnico copies with a beryllium diaphragm.
Steven
Steven
Not true! The Emilar horns do not have the flare disjunction of the Altec sectorals. They open up at a constant rate, quite unlike the 811 and 511.
On the EH-500, you can see the bug screen from anywhere within the angle of the horn. Try that with a 511!
The horizontal pattern of the Emlilar bowtie is nothing like the 811. Real wide dispersion.
Keep laughing cause there is some funny stuff in the thread, but check out some Emilar horn pics on Google. Definite design change.
The Emilars were an improvement to my ear.
Yes, When Emilar broke up, ex-Altec employee Renkus founded R-H and they made some real good stuff too.
Joe,
Well it may not have been exactly an Altec cut off but it was a radial horn cut off. If you look at an early R-H, Emilar and Radian CD you can practically interchange the parts, They were all Algis Renkus designs. You could really take an Altec and cut the front off and you would increase the horizontal dispersion as the center section unloads the waveform and the radiation pattern changes. All the original TAD drivers and the cone 15" were really JBL designs changed very little. The 15" was either an LE-15 or 2215 design. And the cells in the Altec were an attempt to increase the horizontal dispersion but they just ended up causing diffraction and really messed up the polar plots. Not talking about the multicell that was very different. And JBL horns were just junk with the small flare and diffraction screens, horrible. Now JBL 1" drivers on Altec horns were fine.
Well it may not have been exactly an Altec cut off but it was a radial horn cut off. If you look at an early R-H, Emilar and Radian CD you can practically interchange the parts, They were all Algis Renkus designs. You could really take an Altec and cut the front off and you would increase the horizontal dispersion as the center section unloads the waveform and the radiation pattern changes. All the original TAD drivers and the cone 15" were really JBL designs changed very little. The 15" was either an LE-15 or 2215 design. And the cells in the Altec were an attempt to increase the horizontal dispersion but they just ended up causing diffraction and really messed up the polar plots. Not talking about the multicell that was very different. And JBL horns were just junk with the small flare and diffraction screens, horrible. Now JBL 1" drivers on Altec horns were fine.
I am playing with a bunch of Emilar and RH and interchanging the parts.
As mentioned above, I'm not a huge fan of 811/511s, although I love Altec in general.
I tried and tried but never got happy with JBL...or TAD.
I suppose you could correctly say they are all radial horns but there are significant performance differences....and sonic differences, particularly noticeable for careful listening/hifi use.
I would say the Emilar EH 500 and EH800 "bowtie" are more like cut off the back 3" where the narrow throat section is, rather than cut off the front.
As mentioned above, I'm not a huge fan of 811/511s, although I love Altec in general.
I tried and tried but never got happy with JBL...or TAD.
I suppose you could correctly say they are all radial horns but there are significant performance differences....and sonic differences, particularly noticeable for careful listening/hifi use.
I would say the Emilar EH 500 and EH800 "bowtie" are more like cut off the back 3" where the narrow throat section is, rather than cut off the front.
Here in Serbia we have bitumen "Condor plates" (Zen Mod knows what I am talking about) used in building construction as humidity barrier. They are in the form of rolls, available in thicknesses of 3 and 4mm. One side is covered with some kind of transparent foil. You can easily apply rubber based glue to that side and after 15 minutes you can simply stick it to any surface.
If this is available in Serbia, God knows how many similar products are available in US. Ask at places that sell building construction materials.
If this is available in Serbia, God knows how many similar products are available in US. Ask at places that sell building construction materials.
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