Hello everybody,
it's experimental red magic eye:
http://tubedevices.com/alek/pwl/oko/oko_e.htm
and film during working:
http://tubedevices.com/alek/pwl/oko/oko.mov
it's experimental red magic eye:
http://tubedevices.com/alek/pwl/oko/oko_e.htm
and film during working:
http://tubedevices.com/alek/pwl/oko/oko.mov
->Kiss
Are you sure that was cold pirani? Not cold Penning gauge?
I promise you that it's finishing link:
http://www.tubedevices.com/alek/pwl/lampy_produkcja/lampy_produkcja.htm
It's making of the triode, step to step in my kitchen laboratory.
The next links in new year
Best regards
Alek
Are you sure that was cold pirani? Not cold Penning gauge?
I promise you that it's finishing link:
http://www.tubedevices.com/alek/pwl/lampy_produkcja/lampy_produkcja.htm
It's making of the triode, step to step in my kitchen laboratory.
The next links in new year
Best regards
Alek
Pirani. Uses a magnet and, I belive a 3K or so accellerating potential with a rectangular grid.
Every time I have to seal something, I always have to practice once if I haven't done it for a while.
We used to take a quartz 1" square tube and attach a round piece of quartz about 1/2" in diameter to make it easier to seal for evacuation purposes.
In one of the processes whe had to introduce a controlled leak in an inner chamber, The leak was created with a hand-held telsa coil device. 25 years ago, I did it regularly.
I could do it now with a little practice. It's like riding a bike.
I've used oxy/acetelene, propane, Mapp gass and oxy/Mapp gas torches, but not for glass blowing.
Just,like regular or silver soldering. When Learn the skill, It stays with you forever.
I once taught a novice new home owner to sweat copper pipe. I did the more difficult joints. There was a fair amount of watch. I had him solder the joints upside down. Pipe below fitting, so you see the solder wick like it should by capillary action.
Later he did about 40 joints for another project and had no leaks.
I've tried TIG, MIG and stick welding without much practice. The joints looked good.
I'm really glad that someone turned me on to one soldering trick for old pipe that has a little water that wouldn't drain. Put bread in the pipe to soak and stop the water. Works great.
BTW. If it's not obvious, the best way to seal a glass end is to put your manifold overhead. You can have a number of take-offs and use glass shut off ***** that are lubercated with vacuum grease. Later we went to a better valve at about $400 each.
We used Cajon fittings to make the seal from the take off to the tube requireing sealing. The Cajon fittings have O rings on both sides. You can make adapters for various size glass.
I loved working with quartz. I didn't like pyrex. Probably because the Oxy/Hydrogen torch was too hot.
Every time I have to seal something, I always have to practice once if I haven't done it for a while.
We used to take a quartz 1" square tube and attach a round piece of quartz about 1/2" in diameter to make it easier to seal for evacuation purposes.
In one of the processes whe had to introduce a controlled leak in an inner chamber, The leak was created with a hand-held telsa coil device. 25 years ago, I did it regularly.
I could do it now with a little practice. It's like riding a bike.
I've used oxy/acetelene, propane, Mapp gass and oxy/Mapp gas torches, but not for glass blowing.
Just,like regular or silver soldering. When Learn the skill, It stays with you forever.
I once taught a novice new home owner to sweat copper pipe. I did the more difficult joints. There was a fair amount of watch. I had him solder the joints upside down. Pipe below fitting, so you see the solder wick like it should by capillary action.
Later he did about 40 joints for another project and had no leaks.
I've tried TIG, MIG and stick welding without much practice. The joints looked good.
I'm really glad that someone turned me on to one soldering trick for old pipe that has a little water that wouldn't drain. Put bread in the pipe to soak and stop the water. Works great.
BTW. If it's not obvious, the best way to seal a glass end is to put your manifold overhead. You can have a number of take-offs and use glass shut off ***** that are lubercated with vacuum grease. Later we went to a better valve at about $400 each.
We used Cajon fittings to make the seal from the take off to the tube requireing sealing. The Cajon fittings have O rings on both sides. You can make adapters for various size glass.
I loved working with quartz. I didn't like pyrex. Probably because the Oxy/Hydrogen torch was too hot.
Hi,
It's rather not Pirani, because in Pirani is hot platinum wire. It uses the thermal conductivity of gases to measure pressure. It's good up 10^-3 Torr to 760 Torr. For highest vacuum (even to 10^-8 Torr)is used Penning gauge. There is magnet, cold cathode and high voltage:?
I found here about Pirani and Penning in english language:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pressure_measurement
You are happy. You can use pyrex and quartz
I can use soda (or lead) glass only. I have too cold torch (terraneus gas-air).
Unfortunatelly I don't understand it:
"If it's not obvious, the best way to seal a glass end is to put your manifold overhead. You can have a number of take-offs and use glass shut off ***** that are lubercated with vacuum grease."
Best regards
Alek
It's rather not Pirani, because in Pirani is hot platinum wire. It uses the thermal conductivity of gases to measure pressure. It's good up 10^-3 Torr to 760 Torr. For highest vacuum (even to 10^-8 Torr)is used Penning gauge. There is magnet, cold cathode and high voltage:?
I found here about Pirani and Penning in english language:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pressure_measurement
You are happy. You can use pyrex and quartz
I can use soda (or lead) glass only. I have too cold torch (terraneus gas-air).
Unfortunatelly I don't understand it:
"If it's not obvious, the best way to seal a glass end is to put your manifold overhead. You can have a number of take-offs and use glass shut off ***** that are lubercated with vacuum grease."
Best regards
Alek
Your right on the vacuum guage part. It was definately a cold cathode guage and about 3 KV with a magnet so it wasn't a Pirani guage.
These were the fittings used to make the connection from the manifold to the glass stub:
http://www.swagelok.com/downloads/webcatalogs/EN/MS-01-32.pdf
Diagram of the sealing set up:
Ignore the ".". I'm assuming that this board doesn't like ASCII art. (i.e. leading spaces)
.....VG <- Cold cathode vacuum gauge
.......*
.......*
********** <- Vacuum manifold w/(2-3 drops)
..................*
.................(x) <- Valve
................. *
..................UT <-Ultra-torr fitting
..................*
..................*
...................* <--- torch area
..................*
..................* <- part to be sealed
The manifold was all glass. Didn't have to be, but was. (x) was iinitially a valve made entirely of glass. The manifold used ground glass joints with a wax seal. All of this was located so the the "torch area" was at eye level when standing. A fire proof countertop was below.
You had the standard foreline/rough/hi-vac valves and thermocouple gauge elsewhere. Diffusion pump required liquid nitrogen.
All the parts to be sealed were attached and the valves (x) were opened and the parts were evacuated. You would then close the valves (x) of the the one's you were not sealing at the time and then use a hand-held torch to seal at the torch area.
Gravity let you know when the glass was fluid enough. The use of a hand held torch allowed you to rapidly move the torch to all sides of the joint. If something went wrong, the corresponding valve (x) could be shut.
Since evacuating took a long time compared to sealing, it made sense to have multiple ports.
I hope this makes more sense.
These were the fittings used to make the connection from the manifold to the glass stub:
http://www.swagelok.com/downloads/webcatalogs/EN/MS-01-32.pdf
Diagram of the sealing set up:
Ignore the ".". I'm assuming that this board doesn't like ASCII art. (i.e. leading spaces)
.....VG <- Cold cathode vacuum gauge
.......*
.......*
********** <- Vacuum manifold w/(2-3 drops)
..................*
.................(x) <- Valve
................. *
..................UT <-Ultra-torr fitting
..................*
..................*
...................* <--- torch area
..................*
..................* <- part to be sealed
The manifold was all glass. Didn't have to be, but was. (x) was iinitially a valve made entirely of glass. The manifold used ground glass joints with a wax seal. All of this was located so the the "torch area" was at eye level when standing. A fire proof countertop was below.
You had the standard foreline/rough/hi-vac valves and thermocouple gauge elsewhere. Diffusion pump required liquid nitrogen.
All the parts to be sealed were attached and the valves (x) were opened and the parts were evacuated. You would then close the valves (x) of the the one's you were not sealing at the time and then use a hand-held torch to seal at the torch area.
Gravity let you know when the glass was fluid enough. The use of a hand held torch allowed you to rapidly move the torch to all sides of the joint. If something went wrong, the corresponding valve (x) could be shut.
Since evacuating took a long time compared to sealing, it made sense to have multiple ports.
I hope this makes more sense.
Here is a link for some ground glass joints and vacuum stop *****:
Instead of using grease for the tapered joints wax was used.
http://www.ecu.edu/glassblowing/glasscomponents.html
http://www.ilpi.com/inorganic/glassware/stopcocks.html
Some greases and waxes are located here:
http://www.2spi.com/catalog/vac/apiezon.html
Instead of using grease for the tapered joints wax was used.
http://www.ecu.edu/glassblowing/glasscomponents.html
http://www.ilpi.com/inorganic/glassware/stopcocks.html
Some greases and waxes are located here:
http://www.2spi.com/catalog/vac/apiezon.html
I found this article on constructing vacuum systems for neon signs:
http://www.tecnolux.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=72&Itemid=92
Look at the base url too:
www.tecnolux.com
http://www.tecnolux.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=72&Itemid=92
Look at the base url too:
www.tecnolux.com
I was here more than one year ago
Now I make better tubes. For example, it's power triode:
The parameters:
diameter 90 mm
height 18 cm
tungsten cathode
filament voltage ca Vf=11V
filament supply If=1,85A
life time (to break cathode) ca 7200h
gain factor K=ca.5
transconductance S=0,8 mA/V
power dissipation P=12W
Characteristics during If=1,8A:
Now I make better tubes. For example, it's power triode:
The parameters:
diameter 90 mm
height 18 cm
tungsten cathode
filament voltage ca Vf=11V
filament supply If=1,85A
life time (to break cathode) ca 7200h
gain factor K=ca.5
transconductance S=0,8 mA/V
power dissipation P=12W
Characteristics during If=1,8A:
Attachments
topkick time
NICE .
i found it through google while doing research .
that is a VERY nicely made tube .
a shame nobody had intrest in this at the time .
i would like to know how you made this one .
EDIT forgive my topkick i just was so excited not to find a threat about snake oil and WE300B's but some proper discussion .
NICE .
i found it through google while doing research .
that is a VERY nicely made tube .
a shame nobody had intrest in this at the time .
i would like to know how you made this one .
EDIT forgive my topkick i just was so excited not to find a threat about snake oil and WE300B's but some proper discussion .
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2nd for film link!
If I made one of these the vacuum would leak like bucket full of holes..LOL
One of the 7 wonders of the world how to get wire through glass with a perfect seal.
Regards
M. Gregg
Dumet wire.
It's a special alloy designed for feeding through glass.
Thermal coefficeint closley matches that of the glass used for the tube/lamp, whatever.
copper adhers to glass well so the outer layer is copper.
I too would like to see the film.
What level of vacuum do you pull in the tube?
Is that a getter in the top?
It's a special alloy designed for feeding through glass.
Thermal coefficeint closley matches that of the glass used for the tube/lamp, whatever.
copper adhers to glass well so the outer layer is copper.
I too would like to see the film.
What level of vacuum do you pull in the tube?
Is that a getter in the top?
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the wire your talking about is dumet wire .
for the construction of vacuum tubes you need a lot of materials .
i'd love to go in dept about it .
and the seals aint so hard . you just need
* dumet wire for the seal itself
* NI48 FE52 wire for the support rods .
weld em to make a seal
glass . tungsten . nickel sheet/strip metal . a bounch of rare earth metals . forgot ofcourse mica ,
the machines are a completely differend story tho.
my guess is it would cost 50k+ to make the equiptment for 1 type of tube . and that also depends if you outsource or homebrew equiptment
most difficult part would be a decent grid winder / and or a stem maker .
semi automatic bulb maker would save you SO much production time
like i said .
id love to go in dept about it
for the construction of vacuum tubes you need a lot of materials .
i'd love to go in dept about it .
and the seals aint so hard . you just need
* dumet wire for the seal itself
* NI48 FE52 wire for the support rods .
weld em to make a seal
glass . tungsten . nickel sheet/strip metal . a bounch of rare earth metals . forgot ofcourse mica ,
the machines are a completely differend story tho.
my guess is it would cost 50k+ to make the equiptment for 1 type of tube . and that also depends if you outsource or homebrew equiptment
most difficult part would be a decent grid winder / and or a stem maker .
semi automatic bulb maker would save you SO much production time
like i said .
id love to go in dept about it
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Last time I played with vacuum was in college around 1978. In HS, I ran two Frigedare rotary vane compressors in series. (You could strip them out of the housing and set them in a pan full of compressor oil to run them, but had to feed them a little oil through the pickup tube occasionally.) A single frigedare compressor would go below 0.5Torr (confirmed in the physicas lab at USC (SC not CA)), and two in series were supposed to be good to .01 Torr. I was working with lasers at the time, building a HE-NE cold cathode laser. I got most of my supplies from a local Neon Sign company. Later I got a HiVAC two stage rotary vane pump and was working on building a mercury jet difusion pump but never finished it.
How difficult would it be to use a lathe for a grid winder? Totally impractical?
At the time I was using "Procedures in Experimental Physics" by Strong as a reference for making equipment.
How difficult would it be to use a lathe for a grid winder? Totally impractical?
At the time I was using "Procedures in Experimental Physics" by Strong as a reference for making equipment.
My father built some "tubes" long ago from just ordinary food canning bottles with rubber gasket seals. Wires thru the gasket or holes drilled/ground in the glass bottle with screws/washers/rubber gasket/glue seals. The standard bottle spring clamp held the glass cap and gasket under compression. (you would want to use Viton gaskets for high vacuum now I think.) He used some assorted real tube guts to conjure up new tube types. I don't know what he used to evacuate them, but probably was some fridge compressor or surplus pump.
Another neat book for building "projects" is "Building Scientific Apparatus" by Moore, Davis, Coplan
You would need an awfully fine thread attachment for a lathe, I think, to wind grids. Some of the coil winder machines have an infinitely variable cam arrangement for winding pitch, just the thing.
Maybe if the feed gears for the thread attachment on a lathe were changed, could get fine enough pitch. But the grid support rods normally have notches in them for the wire to drop in. Then they get roll crimped to hold the wires.
I have a Varian oil diffusion pump and a two stage roughing pump and a complete Balzers Turbomolecular pump in storage along with assorted gauges. Had it all working at one time. I used to live near a scrap metal yard that got a lot of Perkin Elmer and SVT semiconductor fab equipment. I found one vacuum setup once that had gold wire seals in all the flanges. Oil diffusion pumps are a dime a dozen at the right scrap yards. May never get back to using them unfortunately.
Another neat book for building "projects" is "Building Scientific Apparatus" by Moore, Davis, Coplan
You would need an awfully fine thread attachment for a lathe, I think, to wind grids. Some of the coil winder machines have an infinitely variable cam arrangement for winding pitch, just the thing.
Maybe if the feed gears for the thread attachment on a lathe were changed, could get fine enough pitch. But the grid support rods normally have notches in them for the wire to drop in. Then they get roll crimped to hold the wires.
I have a Varian oil diffusion pump and a two stage roughing pump and a complete Balzers Turbomolecular pump in storage along with assorted gauges. Had it all working at one time. I used to live near a scrap metal yard that got a lot of Perkin Elmer and SVT semiconductor fab equipment. I found one vacuum setup once that had gold wire seals in all the flanges. Oil diffusion pumps are a dime a dozen at the right scrap yards. May never get back to using them unfortunately.
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I told that I prepared better tubes. I found it in my webpage:
lampa T10 PWL
Unfortunatelly, there is not english version now.
About film: I'm looking for it in my computer. But remember that it's "big" file.
But now You can see some my aparature:
http://tubedevices.com/alek/pwl/aparatura/aparatura.htm
I have 5 vacuum units:
-with rotary pump and oil diffusion pump. The final vacuum is below 10E-6 Tr. It's for pumping my
vacuum tubes.
-with rotary pump and turbomolecular pump. The final vacuum is ca. 10E-6 Tr. In this unit is quadrupole mass spectrometer for testing residual gases in electron tubes etc. It's used rather for my experiments for new types of cathodes.
-with rotary pump and my own glass oil diffusion pump. I have it for fill neon or argon, hydrogen (etc.) tubes (nixies etc.). The ultimate pressure below 10E-4 Torr.
-with rotary pump for fill geiger counter tubes. The ultimate pressure ca. 10E-2 Torr.
-with rotary pump and oil diffusion pump. It's vacuum furnace for degassing details of tubes. The ultimate pressure below 2x10E-5 Torr.
About wires: for vacuum tight connectors metal-glass you need different wires. For example, for soda glass or lead glass you need wires FeNi or FeNiCo with copper shield. Im my country some people call it "FeNiKuMa", but I don't know why.
For molybdenum glass or kovar glass you need molybdenum wires.
For duran glass it should be tungsten wire.
Best regards
AlekZ
lampa T10 PWL
Unfortunatelly, there is not english version now.
About film: I'm looking for it in my computer. But remember that it's "big" file.
But now You can see some my aparature:
http://tubedevices.com/alek/pwl/aparatura/aparatura.htm
I have 5 vacuum units:
-with rotary pump and oil diffusion pump. The final vacuum is below 10E-6 Tr. It's for pumping my
vacuum tubes.
-with rotary pump and turbomolecular pump. The final vacuum is ca. 10E-6 Tr. In this unit is quadrupole mass spectrometer for testing residual gases in electron tubes etc. It's used rather for my experiments for new types of cathodes.
-with rotary pump and my own glass oil diffusion pump. I have it for fill neon or argon, hydrogen (etc.) tubes (nixies etc.). The ultimate pressure below 10E-4 Torr.
-with rotary pump for fill geiger counter tubes. The ultimate pressure ca. 10E-2 Torr.
-with rotary pump and oil diffusion pump. It's vacuum furnace for degassing details of tubes. The ultimate pressure below 2x10E-5 Torr.
About wires: for vacuum tight connectors metal-glass you need different wires. For example, for soda glass or lead glass you need wires FeNi or FeNiCo with copper shield. Im my country some people call it "FeNiKuMa", but I don't know why.
For molybdenum glass or kovar glass you need molybdenum wires.
For duran glass it should be tungsten wire.
Best regards
AlekZ
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