Hole drills

[lgreen]

Sounds like punches are out for 5mm plate! I was having a hard time getting my head around how that punch was going to cleanly get through 5mm..... Oh well

Saws

I'm taking a guess that the stepped bit is easier to control than a hole saw? I'm thinking things could go wrong FAST with the hole saw!

But!
would the steps be deep enough? i'm imaging the nest step past where I need to be bearing down on the plate as the last step just breaks through?

BTW, I'll be buying a drill press. I've needed on for 20 years
As for a machine shop, I'm not wanting to do a CAD work up, and i'm afraid some guy having a bad day will scratch my pre finished plate!

You will need a drill press to make big holes. I dont have one but i would never try to drill in that fancy case. I just hack away with normal drill bits.

I do have a pair of step bits- perhaps I'll try them sometime.

You are also right about the CAD work, I shipped some panels to front panel express, for them to cut and label. They came back all scratched up. Luckily I had spares but from then on I let FPE cut their own metal stock.

That is a nice case, good luck.

 

[Captn Dave]

Can I know how to make a smooth square hole / slot with 40mmx40mm ?

Nibblers work best on thin material and aluminum. Otherwise a Dremil tool and file is the ticket.

 

[Captn Dave]

The Harbor Fright punches will NOT go through 5mm aluminum. I managed to drive them through 3mm, but it took a 15 inch ratchet handle and a lot of swearing. The hole was serviceable, but had four obvious bite marks where the punch went through.

The other bad thing about the HF punches is that they are not sized appropriately for tube sockets. The little one is too small for anything, and the big one is too big. The second smallest might pass for noval sockets, but is a hair large. The second largest just barely fits an octal socket, but you have no room for error.

What he said. And they are junk to boot. They won't stay in alignment and no matter the quality and quanty of swear words you use, the end result shouts do-over. They are a waste of money and material.

 

[TubeMack]

I have to admit, i'm confused as to the best method to use! It seems this 5mm thickness is going to make this job much harder.

I'm headed out to price some drill presses.

 

[boywonder]

I've had good luck with Unibits (stepped bits) up to 7/8" dia in .125" aluminum. That's the largest size of my stepped bit, but I believe they get larger.

I have the luxury of a milling machine for the larger holes; we have a bridgeport clone at work and I have an Enco bench top mill/drill at home. The home mill/drill is easily capable of milling and drilling amp stuff, but the bridgeport clone (being a knee mill) is much more convenient. Enco (and other) imported end mills and collets are very affordable. There are also plenty of dirt-cheap end mills on ebay also.

If you have the cash, a used imported mill/drill is a huge step up from a drill press. They can be a little tough to find used sometimes.

 

[OH5FED]

I use RUKO's high quality hole punches.

http://www.ruko.de/englisch/products/metal/screw hole punches/screw_hole_punches_en.htm

Ruko has exact right size punches for tube socket holes like this one for octal socket holes:
http://export.farnell.com/ruko/109283/punch-hole-round-28-3mm/dp/379335

 

[mightydub]

For thicker material, check out these: http://www.generaltools.com/Departments/Hand-Tools/Woodworking-Tools/Circle-Cutters.aspx

I know it says woodworkig, but these will work fine in aluminum. A drill press is absolutely required - don't even think of using a hand drill with one of these circle cutters.

Use cutting fluid such as Cool Tool or Tap Magic.

 

[nic6paul]

For thicker material, check out these: http://www.generaltools.com/Departments/Hand-Tools/Woodworking-Tools/Circle-Cutters.aspx

I know it says woodworkig, but these will work fine in aluminum. A drill press is absolutely required - don't even think of using a hand drill with one of these circle cutters.

Use cutting fluid such as Cool Tool or Tap Magic.

The aluminum I used wasnt very thick and I used one of those to drill all of my holes in my chassis. I just made sure everything was secured to my working surface and I had no problems what so ever. Menards has a cheapie of that tool for around $6 worked just fine.

 

[OH5FED]

Hmm..
Maby this link works: http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/15955.pdf

As you can see, there is punches for 18,6mm and 28,3mm holes..

I have used beltons noval and octal sockets, and those are exact right sizes for them. No need for file...

 

[Wavebourn]

Hmm..
Maby this link works: http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/15955.pdf

As you can see, there is punches for 18,6mm and 28,3mm holes..

I have used beltons noval and octal sockets, and those are exact right sizes for them. No need for file...

They look better than Greenlee I use!

 

[torrence]

Wow those punches look really nice. They specify up to 4mm thickness (including steel) which is quite thick. In the US a lot of tool rental places have punches like this (well Greenlee-style) for punching cutouts in stainless steel sinks. This might be a cheap way to try this out without investing in a spendy punch set.

 

[OH5FED]

Yeah.., those Ruko punches are quite good quality and not still cost gold and diamonds.

I have read Ruko's statement, that 28,3mm puncher can cut even 6mm stainless steel without problems, but they don't recommend to use those for that kind of work continuously...

Newark Corporation (http://www.newark.com/) has some Ruko punchers in their catalog, so mabe they can supply those excellent 18,6 and 28,3 millimeter knockout tools for americans also!

 

[MJL21193]

Other options:

For aluminum you can use Forstner bits:

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

Comes in many sizes. Drill a pilot hole for the tip first and use lube (or alcohol - I like this). Cuts a very clean hole. A little expensive but aren't our babies worth it?

Also for aluminum, you can use a router with a pattern following bit and a template. This will give very clean holes.

 

[jackinnj]

Just one word of caution on the Greenlee punches -- if it isn't working, it isn't working -- a new draw stud will cost you as much as a punch.

A pattern-maker in the plant I worked in as a kid showed me how to make large holes for transformers. He measured the transformer with calipers, figured out the radius for the corners, put the drawing on the aluminum with double-stick tape. He mounted the chassis I brought in with a wood block underneath and drilled a bunch of 1/8 inch holes inside the radius. I finished it up with a file. First transmitter with a 6DQ6B keyed sweep tube.

 

[sganti]

Hi
I have used the drill bits from VT4C with great success. I used it for drilling holes for tube sockets, transformers, capacitors etc. You need a powerful drill, and just attach the bit of desired size and you can drill right thru..

I have used aluminium chassis from vt4c and used these bit to drill holes. I bought all the sizes..

good luck
Sridhar

 

[nhuwar]

I have used the harbor freight step drill too. I've used them on steel and aluminum and they are great.


Especially the price. There well worth it.




Nick

 

[PRNDL]

A Tube Amp Punch Kit

Punch Kit 5 piece Includes 5/8, 3/4, 11/16, 1 and 1 3/16 inch punches, covers popular tube socket sizes (the 1 3/16 size works fine for standard 1 1/8" size octal sockets).Punches up to 18 ga standard steel and .068 aluminum or copper, works on standard Budd and Hammond hobby chassis. $69.95

http://store.triodestore.com/toolmarkit.html