Quite good as an early impression. Now I haven't tested the filters yet but one. The LnS whatever that is. I did an early HW test without the reset circuit in place taking the feed before the volumepotentiometer and I didn't like the SQ at that point. I will later get rid of the potentiometer and the whole amp part...
Still kind of building but yes - quite good.
Brgds
The buffalo uses the Apple remote, just use the code as I will do as soon as I have the Apple remote at hand.
The Sony remote looks as something from the seventies... ;-)
Brgds
Roswell uses RC6 code.
It looks like there may be code to support it:
http://www.arcfn.com/2009/08/multi-protocol-infrared-remote-library.html
It looks like there may be code to support it:
http://www.arcfn.com/2009/08/multi-protocol-infrared-remote-library.html
Last edited:
I bought a couple of these:
Rotary Encoder - Illuminated (Red/Green) - SparkFun Electronics
Not sure if I will implement the built in leds... Ok, it could turn green when increasing volume or red when turning volume down... It also has an built in push switch.
Now after I have found out what the pins do it's time to implement it.
Brgds
Rotary Encoder - Illuminated (Red/Green) - SparkFun Electronics
Not sure if I will implement the built in leds... Ok, it could turn green when increasing volume or red when turning volume down... It also has an built in push switch.
Now after I have found out what the pins do it's time to implement it.
Brgds
When you think you have figured it out it turns out that it's the wrong way... Mine is increasing volume CCW and decreasing CW.Well, not a big deal though. It's living it's own life but once in a while it starts to move the volume. Well, I haven't done anything yet with the code for the encoder. Dimming works ok though. Well, the goal for tonight was to check out the encoder - there is life - good.
Now, let's play with the remote!
I bought a few TSOP38238 and TSOP4838 38khz IR modules - which one would you prefer?
Tested they will be both of them (Sounds like Yoda...).
Brgds
Last edited:
It appears that the TSOP38238 is the newer part. The TSOP4838 is no longer recommended for design.
After doing some research, I think I will try to set up for MCE RC6 compatibility, as the codes are defined and there will be less chance of interference with a TV or other IR controlled device.
Everything I need to know is hopefully in the 178 page manual:
"Remote Control and Receiver-Transceiver Specifications and Requirements for Windows Media Center in Windows Operating Systems"
After doing some research, I think I will try to set up for MCE RC6 compatibility, as the codes are defined and there will be less chance of interference with a TV or other IR controlled device.
Everything I need to know is hopefully in the 178 page manual:
"Remote Control and Receiver-Transceiver Specifications and Requirements for Windows Media Center in Windows Operating Systems"
Last edited:
Enjoy the reading ;-)
I will try and error - my game...
The scope gave evidence of signals after connecting the TSOP38238 to the arduino but no other evidence of anything happened. Our guru hinted by the remote hookup that he used the apple remote so I will dig into his code for this in parallel with the buffalo code. Findings will be communicated and the code will be for Arduino 1.0.
Brgds
Now heartwinters code isn't for the Apple remote... What a friend he is.
I will try and error - my game...
The scope gave evidence of signals after connecting the TSOP38238 to the arduino but no other evidence of anything happened. Our guru hinted by the remote hookup that he used the apple remote so I will dig into his code for this in parallel with the buffalo code. Findings will be communicated and the code will be for Arduino 1.0.
Brgds
Now heartwinters code isn't for the Apple remote... What a friend he is.
Last edited:
So, you're stuck on the LCD part?
Just change the init part - the rest is the same - thats why libraries exists.
The LCD.write's are all the same.
I don't have the latest code on this machine - I'll send it later.
Still struggling with the apple remote code - struggling is maybe not the word - I haven't had time. It will be solved of course but you should be able to get some parts working. Just change the LCD init part to suit a serial LCD.
Later... Yes.
Brgds
Just change the init part - the rest is the same - thats why libraries exists.
The LCD.write's are all the same.
I don't have the latest code on this machine - I'll send it later.
Still struggling with the apple remote code - struggling is maybe not the word - I haven't had time. It will be solved of course but you should be able to get some parts working. Just change the LCD init part to suit a serial LCD.
Later... Yes.
Brgds
OK, status quo
This is actually no change since a few days back.
The encoder works when it wish to do so - damn piece of dog poop...
I haven't had time to sort out the apple remote yet. It shurely looks as the remote I want to use for my shigaclones.
Yeah - Black Sabbath on 00 -db... Keep it coming!
Brgds
This is actually no change since a few days back.
The encoder works when it wish to do so - damn piece of dog poop...
I haven't had time to sort out the apple remote yet. It shurely looks as the remote I want to use for my shigaclones
.Yeah - Black Sabbath on 00 -db... Keep it coming!
Brgds
Not so much stuck as I have only been reading and not actually working on the code as I don't have enough pieces to put anything together that should produce audio.
I got to thinking last night as I went to sleep that I might be able to use the S/PDIF output of a CD or DVD ROM drive for a computer as a source for testing.
I need to go through the schematics and see what I need to do. I think all I need is the level shifter and the WM8741 board since the output of the CD ROM Drive is TTL level(5V logic), not S/PDIF level (1vp-p).
I got to thinking last night as I went to sleep that I might be able to use the S/PDIF output of a CD or DVD ROM drive for a computer as a source for testing.
I need to go through the schematics and see what I need to do. I think all I need is the level shifter and the WM8741 board since the output of the CD ROM Drive is TTL level(5V logic), not S/PDIF level (1vp-p).
Thanks for posting that Turbon, I'll use it as my baseline code.
Does this run under Arduino 1.0 or -0022?
A suggestion, add a line in the header of the code something to the effect of:
"Modified by Turbon, Version 0.01.00, 4-6-12 for WM8741 DAC Project"
Increment the Version number for each change you make.
first digit - Release
second digits - major changes
third two digits - minor changes
This will allow for easy tracking of your changes to the code, and in the future if someone unfamiliar with the project finds it they will have some indication of what it was modified for.
Does this run under Arduino 1.0 or -0022?
A suggestion, add a line in the header of the code something to the effect of:
"Modified by Turbon, Version 0.01.00, 4-6-12 for WM8741 DAC Project"
Increment the Version number for each change you make.
first digit - Release
second digits - major changes
third two digits - minor changes
This will allow for easy tracking of your changes to the code, and in the future if someone unfamiliar with the project finds it they will have some indication of what it was modified for.
Yeah, right TheGimp... Now you are expecting me to be something I'll never be...
ORGANIZED.
I'll rather post my changes to you and then you are in charge of the changes
Well the code is for 1.0.
I actually need to take your advice since I have the code on 3 machines - now did I remember to copy it or am I working on the old one? Organized was the word...
Brgds
ORGANIZED.
I'll rather post my changes to you and then you are in charge of the changes
Well the code is for 1.0.
I actually need to take your advice since I have the code on 3 machines - now did I remember to copy it or am I working on the old one? Organized was the word...
Brgds
Last edited:
We use tools at work to keep track of FW, but I rarely do any FW development so I'm not on top of it either. I had to go through all my files related to this project and sort them out to get the code to run under -0022. I had mixed code from both versions and that was my previous problem.
I'll zip my -0022 stuff and get it out of my directories so I don't accidentally use it, and switch to 1.0.
Thanks a bunch for sharing Turbon.
I took a vacation day today so I'm off to run errands.
bbl
I'll zip my -0022 stuff and get it out of my directories so I don't accidentally use it, and switch to 1.0.
Thanks a bunch for sharing Turbon.
I took a vacation day today so I'm off to run errands.
bbl
The wife is not to happy with me campering in the basement - I don't get it - better audio for everyone...
I have printed the code and can if the force is with me sort the remote coding out during the holydays - so I wish you all an Happy Easter and don't forget to share your findings or ideas.
Brgds
BTW. My DAC couln't be describd as cool. I can hold my finger on it but there is almost a sting after about - yeah - 30 seconds. So working temp seems to be 50-60 Celsius. Running at 00 -db.
Anyway - tonight is ok to camper with my gears. Now the DAC is quite ok but the amp part has to go - not bad... But improvements is the game.
I have printed the code and can if the force is with me sort the remote coding out during the holydays - so I wish you all an Happy Easter and don't forget to share your findings or ideas.
Brgds
BTW. My DAC couln't be describd as cool. I can hold my finger on it but there is almost a sting after about - yeah - 30 seconds. So working temp seems to be 50-60 Celsius. Running at 00 -db.
Anyway - tonight is ok to camper with my gears. Now the DAC is quite ok but the amp part has to go - not bad... But improvements is the game.
Last edited:
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.