Hifonics BXi 2607D

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Installed gate resistors and had a look at the drive signal before installing any p/s fets and it looks a little funny to me. Iys not very square on the bottom.

Scope settings were 10us/5vd

I have 2 of the FMU-32U doublers removed is this why?

Maybe I should have a look at the drivers?

What do you all think?
 

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I cant get channel 1 to even trigger. It was working fine when I purchased it.
I have been using channel 2 this whole time and have never really used channel 1 except to test it when I first got it.

I used channel 2 again for the test but changed my settings to .5vd/10us scope probe set to 10X and this is the signal I get from the drive circuit.

How does this look?
 

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OK noted...... move subwoofer away from scope as far as possible!!!

Well installed the p/s fets and the amp would not power. I removed the Q7, Q7A, Q8, Q8A and they tested bad. I replaced them with BD139 and BD140.

The amp powers up and is stable, no current draw, no dc on output terminals and is not in protect.

I only had 8 IRFP064N's left so thats all I have installed when I tested the power supply. My new stock will arrive in a few days and I will put the remaining 4 in then I will be ready to put it in the sink and hammer away on the old Punch XLC 18".

That sub wont die....I have owned it for 10 years and hammered the crap out of it. At one time I had a power 1000a2 bridged to it for over a year and couldnt kill it. It is in a nice box and tuned well as to the factory requirements. It also has never been clipped either.

We will see when I get my parts how this one treats the old sub, it will be a brutal beating for sure!!!!
 
The remaining p/s fets were installed, the outputs on the side were replaced.

The amp is stable, and has audio.

Problem is an enormous pop between tracks and volume adjustments.

There 6.54 vdc on the rca shield. I am sure thats the problem.

Any ideas where to look?
 
I had one do this and I think the problem was in the DIN socket. The owner didn't use the DIN and didn't want to wait on a replacement so I didn't go any further with it. Either there is a short internally (in the DIN connector) or to a trace on the board.

On the one I had, you could twist the jack and the voltage would come and go.
 
Sean, Perry,

Sorry to intrude here on your post.. But can one of you have a look at my post in the Class D section of the forum and lead me some direction. ? It's the exact same amp Sean.

Every second that I try to play with this amp by myself I seem to take it deeper into no where land.

I stock a lot of spare components and have almost every replacement for the board other then Chokes and Caps(Huge ones)

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
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