Got a good start on them today 
The crossover looks awesome, might have everything I need.
Thanks again!
For those that don't know, the white ones in post 6 is Dissi's crossover design; that's a heck of a speaker. Wow they have some punch! But also do well with detail. Have three in the HT, two vertical and horizontal center.
The crossover looks awesome, might have everything I need.
Thanks again!
For those that don't know, the white ones in post 6 is Dissi's crossover design; that's a heck of a speaker. Wow they have some punch! But also do well with detail. Have three in the HT, two vertical and horizontal center.
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Bachelor for the last couple of days, so had time to work on this 
I keep finding the 5" woofers, I know another buddy with some; a lifetime supply of them.
Found a pair of 2.5mh inductors, I'm sure I can find the other xo components.
Went back and fined tuned the size vs. ports, with WinIsd and box program; boxes are 22liter (excluding ports) vents are 11mm x 6.5" wide x 6" long. Fs 50hz.
I keep finding the 5" woofers, I know another buddy with some; a lifetime supply of them.
Found a pair of 2.5mh inductors, I'm sure I can find the other xo components.
Went back and fined tuned the size vs. ports, with WinIsd and box program; boxes are 22liter (excluding ports) vents are 11mm x 6.5" wide x 6" long. Fs 50hz.
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We HAVE to get you to start using better drivers!
How about the Santori woofer and the Transducer Labs tweeter?
I am back from NC and the crossover parts came in for the SF/Daytons. You are going to hate them. This is what yo get with a mid quality woofer and a mid quality tweeter with a simple crossover. I think it proves you need better drivers.
How about the Santori woofer and the Transducer Labs tweeter?
I am back from NC and the crossover parts came in for the SF/Daytons. You are going to hate them. This is what yo get with a mid quality woofer and a mid quality tweeter with a simple crossover. I think it proves you need better drivers.
TVR, the speakers on post 6 crack like lighting bolts, they cruise along delicately - just waiting to unleash their fury
(funny but accurate) If you can't use the SF's there are extra mtm boxes here
Success! 
They sound great, really nice balance, crazy nice bass.
(the 2951 Peerless was always known for good bass)
They sound a lot like the bigger 6.5"s - remarkably.
These dual box box are the way to go as far as I tell. They blow all the other boxes I've been making over the years - right out of the water.
Now I don't think the woofers are broken in yet, I'll give them a few more years
They sound great, really nice balance, crazy nice bass.(the 2951 Peerless was always known for good bass)
They sound a lot like the bigger 6.5"s - remarkably.
These dual box box are the way to go as far as I tell. They blow all the other boxes I've been making over the years - right out of the water.
Now I don't think the woofers are broken in yet, I'll give them a few more years
A cap/coil as you say is what's known as a resonant trap circuit, also known as a notch filter. They're typically used to remove peaks in the response due to cone breakup in another driver's passband. They serve a similar function for full-range drivers as well. The impedance circuit you're referring to is a cap/resistor, where the resistor is the driver's Re and the cap is Le/(Re^2). In our world, this is called a Zobel network and works to remove the effect of the driver's inductance on the impedance.
Charming little rumble boxes ~ although my buddy thinks some type of rear flare port would be better. Liking this bare bones, but everything needed strategy. [he didn't hear them yet, only saw the pic]
Can certainly be made "inside out" starting with a U front baffle with vent strips attached; then and build (fine tune) a box around that.
Can certainly be made "inside out" starting with a U front baffle with vent strips attached; then and build (fine tune) a box around that.
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Don't think that makes much of a difference. Really nice wood work, I sincerely hope you don't have to start all over again...
The notch at 7 kHz appears to be misaligned, as the break-up of the driver actually is at 4 kHz. But it is not (hopefully), the steep slope on the left-hand side is used to achieve the desired acoustic response.
Sorry for not replying earlier, but I wanted to give you some time to listen to them carefully, and then I lost my internet connection for a day. If there is a problem, please say it frankly. It's a design solely based on a simulation and I promis to try not to die of a heart attack instantly!
Which value of tweeter resistor did turn out best?
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I see, you are from the east coast and you prefer the british style, a slightly falling frequency response, which also is typical for many of Troel Gravesen's loudspeaker designs. In this case, a coil of 2.7 mH might serve well. Changing the inductor surprisingly does not mess up the crossover, so there is room to tweak the crossover according to your taste.
I keep listening for some wrong, no complaints really.
With 2.4 coil, they sounded like there was too much damping wool, but only 1.8oz per cell (just a handful), but better with the smaller inductor. And the layer of thick furnace filter material that went in first.
I don't see myself running these over to my friend's place anytime soon, not until I make a second pair
Some cool stuff showed up at the door yesterday!
With 2.4 coil, they sounded like there was too much damping wool, but only 1.8oz per cell (just a handful), but better with the smaller inductor. And the layer of thick furnace filter material that went in first.
I don't see myself running these over to my friend's place anytime soon, not until I make a second pair
Some cool stuff showed up at the door yesterday!
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