i have denon pma1500r . i have volume potantiometer problems.
I buy new potantiometer alps kb100x2
old potantiometer : 30kbx2 alps
how connection new potansiometer??
new potantiometer and old potantiometer are different pins.
how connection new potansiometer??
Help me please .
upload pics
I buy new potantiometer alps kb100x2
old potantiometer : 30kbx2 alps
how connection new potansiometer??
new potantiometer and old potantiometer are different pins.
how connection new potansiometer??
Help me please .
upload pics
I suggest you search for a service manual for the denon pma1500r first. Once you have that you can find the pinout of the volume control in it.
You will also have to find the pinout of the replacement alps kb100x2 unit, or trace out on the PWB.
Once you have both pieces of information it will be possible to determine how to replace the unit.
You will also have to find the pinout of the replacement alps kb100x2 unit, or trace out on the PWB.
Once you have both pieces of information it will be possible to determine how to replace the unit.
thank you for answer
The problems are balance (right-left imbalance in low-volume ) and sizzle, hoarseness. i can remove old potentiometer but i cannot attach new potentiometer.
ok thank you
Wrong forum, moving to solid state..
The pins are in a different physical configuration on that replacement pot you bought. It would be really difficult to adapt it using jumper wires in the amount of space you have underneath.
Maybe something more like this style motorized alps pot would work. You'd have to verify that the pinouts are the same of course though.
Maybe something more like this style motorized alps pot would work. You'd have to verify that the pinouts are the same of course though.
Attachments
There are two problems with no easy solution unless the original design is fitted.
The original has dual, front and back, 4-wire tapped pots to suit a loudness control.
The replacement has all pins in a single row, including the motor connections, I believe.
Common ALPS parts are often only 3-wire, untapped. These can be made to work, just
losing the loudness control. Some amplifiers may still need a circuit mod. to work properly.
You won't be able to simply fit your replacement without a major rebuild of the pot, PCB or both.
The only simple substitution is to follow the method of post 2, using a potentiometer diagram
to guide your measurements to determine which connections match up.
Then make wire links
to the PCB, bending the pot. pins flat so they can press against the PCB with some insulating
board or plastic separating them.
Take care avoiding motor leads close to audio signal leads. This is definitely not an easy
job for anyone without at least basic mechanical assembly and wiring skills.
Needless to say, I would not try this unless it was the only amplifier and that was the only
pot. on the planet. Sometimes you have to take your mistakes in ordering parts as a lesson -
a hard lesson for sure, but we all make mistakes ordering parts without enough information.
The original has dual, front and back, 4-wire tapped pots to suit a loudness control.
The replacement has all pins in a single row, including the motor connections, I believe.
Common ALPS parts are often only 3-wire, untapped. These can be made to work, just
losing the loudness control. Some amplifiers may still need a circuit mod. to work properly.
You won't be able to simply fit your replacement without a major rebuild of the pot, PCB or both.
The only simple substitution is to follow the method of post 2, using a potentiometer diagram
to guide your measurements to determine which connections match up.
Then make wire links
to the PCB, bending the pot. pins flat so they can press against the PCB with some insulating
board or plastic separating them.
Take care avoiding motor leads close to audio signal leads. This is definitely not an easy
job for anyone without at least basic mechanical assembly and wiring skills.
Needless to say, I would not try this unless it was the only amplifier and that was the only
pot. on the planet. Sometimes you have to take your mistakes in ordering parts as a lesson -
a hard lesson for sure, but we all make mistakes ordering parts without enough information.
Also the loudness function will be altered when replacing a 30K pot with a 100K.
You should al least find a 50K to replace the original.
Also, try to clean up the existing potmeter.
If there is just nise as scratching and so when operating the potmeter,
you should be good i using a good electronics cleaner with lubricant .
You should al least find a 50K to replace the original.
Also, try to clean up the existing potmeter.
If there is just nise as scratching and so when operating the potmeter,
you should be good i using a good electronics cleaner with lubricant .
thank you for answers I love you my friends I found the wiring diagram 5pcs Alps Genuine Motorized Potentiometer 100K RK168 Audio | eBay
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KMossman
Yikes!
in my experience WD-40 will soften the binder that holds the carbon in the potentiometer track in place allowing them to wear prematurely!
the only time i would suggest using wd on a pot is to try and free up a shaft that's frozen in place or extremely stiff never on the carbon track.
Yikes!
in my experience WD-40 will soften the binder that holds the carbon in the potentiometer track in place allowing them to wear prematurely!
the only time i would suggest using wd on a pot is to try and free up a shaft that's frozen in place or extremely stiff never on the carbon track.
Well, everything can't be normal if you have very little output. Try temporarily removing the loudness tap connection on one channel. If normal volume is restored, you will need to lose it as a feature or redesign the circuit to suit the new high value (100K) pot.
If this doesn't restore volume, your connections will be incorrect. It is unlikely the pot. is defective in both channels but if you have even a cheap multimeter, you can measure that a resistor is a resistor or a variable one, anytime.
Note that the source/direct switch also grounds the tapping via 3.6k (disables it) in the on position.
If this doesn't restore volume, your connections will be incorrect. It is unlikely the pot. is defective in both channels but if you have even a cheap multimeter, you can measure that a resistor is a resistor or a variable one, anytime.
Note that the source/direct switch also grounds the tapping via 3.6k (disables it) in the on position.
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