Help! How does make "dead" cabinet?

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many years ago i did manage to be part of ateam that built some concrete cabinets they have few prblems acoustically. you still have to damp the rear wave of the woofer.

about using conrete pipes... if find them a bit ugly and ill suited to most decor except if you have happen to live in a loft apt. or something like that.

at one time i was thinking of build a TL that would strech fron floor to ceiling (about 14 ft) out of the pipe. actually it would be a wave guide with one guide being 10 ft the other 4 ft. I left that apt before that idea took root.

somewhere i have plans for a conrete speaker using 2 Focal 8" Neoflex woofers and a Morel MDT33. I built these in 1988 so I wonder if I can find the plans. what I do remember is that there was little resonance of the cabinet.
 
Concrete

Greetings

My first post. Wonderful forum.

I made concrete speaker enclosures. Concrete has a tendency to ring, at least with the ones I made. The concrete wall thickness is only about 1 1/4 inches, and that may have something to do with it. Black Hole 5 and Black Hole Pad are excellent at damping enclosure walls.

If the image I tried to attach shows up the concrete enclosure is the one on top and it is 14 in. diameter.

Music Machine
 

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Music machine,
welcome! How did you finish the concrete? It looks very nice. I wish I had your hobby fund!
I am putting an addition on the house next year(3 little girls=no choice). Upside; I will have a room of 24' x 30' with a radiant heat concrete floor. A very scary concrete dipole monster is starting to grow in my mind, as I will have no weight limitations. Currently, I am setting lag bolts in the concrete panels so that I can change out wooden center panels and experiment with different drivers.
I am very happy with how the concrete is working with my dipole panels, but am interested in what others might think about additives to attenuate any resonances if used in a box. How about 12 gauge lead buckshot?!
 
music machine, what is the XO freq between the Manger and ScanSpeak 10"?

I am considering a full range for my next project. it has to be small. 4' x 1' x 1' tower. Hence I was thinking of a 10" or 2x8"and a full range like a Manger.

is the manger (and it's conrete box) sitting on some sort of foam padding?
 
170 hz, 18db slope on the low pass, 6db slope for high pass. I think you need to cross low and steep on the scanspeak or else have a notch filter a little over 2k. The carbon composition makes it stiff but causes a ringing somewhere between 2k-2.5k

The concrete "globe" sits on sand bags that are inside a ring. This makes a little pedestal so it can't roll away. That is convoluted foam around the pedestal.

Music Machine
 
what is the big difference between a full range and say a 6" 2 way? The reason I am considering a full range is that often I find speakers that have no XO (small coax drivers in car systems and TVs) to be quite transparent even if they dont have the extension of a more expensive system. hence I was considering a system that used a full range driver (not decided which), a woofer and maybe a rear firing super tweeter.
 
frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
Paid Member
navin said:
hence I was considering a system that used a full range driver (not decided which), a woofer and maybe a rear firing super tweeter.

Similar to my system. Active stereo woofers/subs (2x8), FR bi-pole from 125 Hz run open at the top & a tweeter rolling in about 10k. What i call a mostly full range system. The best midrange is a full-range kinda idea.

dave
 
as i get older my needs for SPL are reducing.

I used to have 2 JBL 2245s (B460) bass reflex boxes for bass, 2 Focal 8N515s for midbass etc...

Then I reduced it to 4 Audio Concpets 12" woofer (2 per channel) in 2 120 liter sealed boxes which I thought was sensible at the time.

Now I am building a system using just 1 8" woofer for bass augmentation with a 6" 2 way reproducing most of the music. I hope this will be all I need for everyday needs. I will keep the ACI+ScanSpeak system (pictured elsewhere) in cold storage for use on days when I am sick or nuts and need to shake things.

The 10" SS + Manger seem like a good sensible combination.

Dave what full range are you using. The Manger seems a bit expensive and also I fear that given it's size it might beam at higher frequencies.
 
frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
Paid Member
navin said:
Dave what full range are you using. The Manger seems a bit expensive and also I fear that given it's size it might beam at higher frequencies.

Currently using Radio Shack 40-1197 in BD-Pipes, but i have had a set of FE103As in the wings for sometime... they sound better -- chrisB says WAY better -- but the RS are enjoyable enuff that i haven't been moved to get that project to the top of the queue yet.

dave
 
Retired diyAudio Moderator
Joined 2002
navin said:
someone else suggested using fiberglass to build the box instead of MDF.

I am also wondering about fiberglass. I have a friend that swears by making the cabinet out of mdf/wood and then lining the inside with a thick layer of fiberglass (the kind that you use resin and sheets). What is the overall concensus of lining boxes with fiberglass to make them more rigid. I have seen a couple of custom automotive subwoofer boxes lined with fiberglass. They were quite heavy.

Does using fiberglass help deaden a cabinet?

--
Brian
 
I would think you could screw and glue (silicone?) aluminum to wood pretty easily.

I've also thought about glueing foam together and laminating the inside and out with fiberglass. you could laminate wood (or aluminum" into the baffle so you have something to screw the drivers to.

What's fiberglass per sq yard/meter these days?
 
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