Alright I read what the polarity means, so I tried it out and it's all good. Thanks very much mate. I would buy you a beer if I could. Thanks for all your help. Just one question though about the amp.
I took the switch off the pcb by melting the solder. and then the amp on with the wires connected to T3 and neutral and it still turns on is this normal?
I can get it to work but the problem is that is 'hardwired' as in the power switch can't turn it on or off it just stays on. Could this be a switch problem?
I took the switch off the pcb by melting the solder. and then the amp on with the wires connected to T3 and neutral and it still turns on is this normal?
I can get it to work but the problem is that is 'hardwired' as in the power switch can't turn it on or off it just stays on. Could this be a switch problem?
If you removed the switch then you need to check very carefully that there are no shorts caused by solder blobs or whiskers of solder under the PCB.
Also when I look at your pictures the switch appears to have a "shiny" bit on top... just check it's not solder that fallen off the iron on there... it looks a bit like that
So it all works... you just have to be logical using the meter and trace the electrical path from the fuse through the switch and connect accordingly. The "output" from the switch must go to one of those other tabs.
Also when I look at your pictures the switch appears to have a "shiny" bit on top... just check it's not solder that fallen off the iron on there... it looks a bit like that
So it all works... you just have to be logical using the meter and trace the electrical path from the fuse through the switch and connect accordingly. The "output" from the switch must go to one of those other tabs.
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