Hi,
A 2.5 way is the way to go, but has to be done properly.
http://audio.claub.net/Simple Loudspeaker Design ver2.pdf
FRD Consortium tools guide
rgds, sreten.
A 2.5 way is the way to go, but has to be done properly.
http://audio.claub.net/Simple Loudspeaker Design ver2.pdf
FRD Consortium tools guide
rgds, sreten.
I'm sure there's more to making a decent-sounding speaker, than just a good box...and slapping random drivers into it.
:
Seemed to work for me in my younger days lol.
In 1980 I just bought 4 Fane 50WRMS 50Hz-4KHz drivers from Maplin and put them in 2 cabinets. Got used with a mobile disco and for guitar for years.
These days I am a little more careful about what I buy.
My latest pair of cabinets have Fane Sovereign 12-200LT in one and 12-250TC in the other. These are more full range than the Maplin offerings.
They sound very good.
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Actually, metal tweeters are quite tolerable if you fit a Zobel around 7.5R and 0.68uF. But then, most tweeters benefit from a Zobel. I did think your PMC FACT.3 speakers had metal as standard, but on closer inspection they ARE soft dome. So maybe 22TFF is true to the original.
Anyway, this is looking good:
Sreten seems a bit short on detail with his 2.5 idea. I think I prefer my MTM/TMM design in practise. Of course, any good speaker is about 6 months work to get right. Endless fiddling involved.
I've saved the image to the forum, since photobucket and imageshack last about 5 minutes usually.
Anyway, this is looking good:
Sreten seems a bit short on detail with his 2.5 idea. I think I prefer my MTM/TMM design in practise. Of course, any good speaker is about 6 months work to get right. Endless fiddling involved.
I've saved the image to the forum, since photobucket and imageshack last about 5 minutes usually.
Attachments
OK gents; well...hasn't been much to report for a while. And for a while there...I wasn't sure, this thread wouldn't just fade-away and die.
It turns out...the build, really bogged-down; with the freakin' trim-rings! Couldn't find them, as constituted...ANYWHERE! And I've gotten 2 quotes to fabricate them...and both were more than I was hoping to spend.
But...rather than stay mired in neutral; I've decided to move the trim-rings, to the back burner. Finish the build; and if the speaker sounds fabulous, and I'm contemplating keeping and running it. Well...then I can decide, if the money is worth it; to make it look pretty
So...unfortunately; my buddy's concurrent build...went bust-o Literally; he shipped the cabinets off, for finishing...and they did not survive the trip back. He graciously offered me his tweeters; and if anyone is interested in his hard-to-find, had-to-go-out-of-the-country-to-get-them; 140mm Vifa drivers...raise your hand, let me know and/or PM me (he has a total of 4, so there might be the opportunity for 2 people, to snag a pair per).
As you can see, in my attached pic below; I now have my complete compliment of drivers! (4) Vifa P13WH-00-08s, and (2) SEAS Prestige 22TFFs.
I think my next step...is x-over? I can't design/build myself; so I'm hoping to consign a guru! C'mon guys; how about some help here??
Man...to this point; all I've gotten, is advice to go another direction, and declarations that I couldn't find the right drivers.
So...who can point me, to the right man to get the job done? I don't want to break the bank...but I don't want some "hack" either. Do any of the guys, who do whole speaker-builds; you know...the usual ID set. Contract out, the odd cross-over??
It turns out...the build, really bogged-down; with the freakin' trim-rings! Couldn't find them, as constituted...ANYWHERE! And I've gotten 2 quotes to fabricate them...and both were more than I was hoping to spend.
But...rather than stay mired in neutral; I've decided to move the trim-rings, to the back burner. Finish the build; and if the speaker sounds fabulous, and I'm contemplating keeping and running it. Well...then I can decide, if the money is worth it; to make it look pretty
So...unfortunately; my buddy's concurrent build...went bust-o
Literally; he shipped the cabinets off, for finishing...and they did not survive the trip back. He graciously offered me his tweeters; and if anyone is interested in his hard-to-find, had-to-go-out-of-the-country-to-get-them; 140mm Vifa drivers...raise your hand, let me know and/or PM me (he has a total of 4, so there might be the opportunity for 2 people, to snag a pair per).As you can see, in my attached pic below; I now have my complete compliment of drivers! (4) Vifa P13WH-00-08s, and (2) SEAS Prestige 22TFFs.
I think my next step...is x-over? I can't design/build myself; so I'm hoping to consign a guru! C'mon guys; how about some help here??
Man...to this point; all I've gotten, is advice to go another direction, and declarations that I couldn't find the right drivers.
So...who can point me, to the right man to get the job done? I don't want to break the bank...but I don't want some "hack" either. Do any of the guys, who do whole speaker-builds; you know...the usual ID set. Contract out, the odd cross-over??
Attachments
Hi,
A 2.5 way is the way to go, but has to be done properly.
http://audio.claub.net/Simple Loudspeaker Design ver2.pdf
http://www.rjbaudio.com/Audiofiles/FRDtools.html
rgds, sreten.
Is a bit of a hack but better than nothing :
http://www.lcaudio.com/index.php?page=26
I'd try it with much more mundane components.
A 2.5 way is the way to go, but has to be done properly.
http://audio.claub.net/Simple Loudspeaker Design ver2.pdf
http://www.rjbaudio.com/Audiofiles/FRDtools.html
rgds, sreten.
Is a bit of a hack but better than nothing :
http://www.lcaudio.com/index.php?page=26
I'd try it with much more mundane components.
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I missed your update here. How about a simple near 2nd order slope filter then? About 2.8kHz crossover, I think. Lynn Olson's design seems a good simple one.
The Ariel, Part II
We've got a 1mH bass coil and a 3.3R/10uF shunt on the parallel wired basses. Using two 6.8R in parallel to make near 3.3R will keep things cooler too.
4.7uF and 0.3mH on the tweeter. The attenuator might as well be 1R/22R and the Zobel will be 6.2R and around 1-1.5uF to allow for the H1280-06 22TFF slightly lower Le inductance. But it's not dissimilar sensitivity to a Scan 9500.
I did a rough sim, and everything looks OK. A 4ohm load to the amplifier. Should look a bit like the below.
The Ariel, Part II
We've got a 1mH bass coil and a 3.3R/10uF shunt on the parallel wired basses. Using two 6.8R in parallel to make near 3.3R will keep things cooler too.
4.7uF and 0.3mH on the tweeter. The attenuator might as well be 1R/22R and the Zobel will be 6.2R and around 1-1.5uF to allow for the H1280-06 22TFF slightly lower Le inductance. But it's not dissimilar sensitivity to a Scan 9500.
I did a rough sim, and everything looks OK. A 4ohm load to the amplifier. Should look a bit like the below.
Attachments
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