Hi guys,
I received the amplifier today. I got really excited after waiting for so long (I haven't received my batteries yet) so I plugged in the speakers, rca cable and put my iPod to play. Now for the power source I decided to test it out with my laptop charger. I don't know if this was a good idea or not. The power light went on with an initial flash from the blue LED light which says "fault" when you power it on. I wasn't successful at getting any sound at all from the speakers but a bit of a crackle here and there, only on one speaker though. After awhile I started to notice a funny smell coming from that speaker... Oh no, what do I do? Have I wrecked my things? Hahah can someone please tell me what I've been doing wrong and what I should do next? cheers
Cheers!
I received the amplifier today. I got really excited after waiting for so long (I haven't received my batteries yet) so I plugged in the speakers, rca cable and put my iPod to play. Now for the power source I decided to test it out with my laptop charger. I don't know if this was a good idea or not. The power light went on with an initial flash from the blue LED light which says "fault" when you power it on. I wasn't successful at getting any sound at all from the speakers but a bit of a crackle here and there, only on one speaker though. After awhile I started to notice a funny smell coming from that speaker... Oh no, what do I do? Have I wrecked my things? Hahah can someone please tell me what I've been doing wrong and what I should do next? cheers
Cheers!
Hi Jo, the blue fault light flash is normal when power is applied. The good news is it did not stay on. No sound? your not the first. Sure ships the boards with the DIP switches in the off position. They are the four white switches at the in put, they set the gain. You can go to the Sure web site and download the user manual for details. Hope this helps.
Howie
Howie
Yay, thank you so much. That made sound, but I seriously reckon I've damaged the board. When the speaker is plugged into one of the channels, it plays no sound at all and gives off a funny smell to the speaker. I emailed sure electronics and they sent me this:
"Please do the following test for us:
First, please test the left channel via connecting corresponding Vout + and Vout- to GND when the board is powered, and send us the pictures of voltage results measured by multimeter.
Second, when the board is not power, please test the test the left channel via connecting corresponding Vout + and Vout- to GND, and send us the the pictures of resistance results measured by multimeter"
How do I do this? Thanks guys.
"Please do the following test for us:
First, please test the left channel via connecting corresponding Vout + and Vout- to GND when the board is powered, and send us the pictures of voltage results measured by multimeter.
Second, when the board is not power, please test the test the left channel via connecting corresponding Vout + and Vout- to GND, and send us the the pictures of resistance results measured by multimeter"
How do I do this? Thanks guys.
The documentation indicates otherwise.
JoAnn, do you have a multimeter? Looks like there's troubleshooting to be done.
Don't spend a lot of money on your first DMM.
Look for a good set of DCV ranges 0-200.0mVdc , 0-2000mVdc, 0-2.000Vdc, 0-20.00Vdc, 0-200Vdc, and finally one around 0-500Vdc.
If you can you want the same set of ranges for ACV. Yes, right down to 0-200.0mVac
Do not go looking for extra facilities at this stage.
If they throw in Capacitance, or Resistance, or hFE, or diode, or Buzzer on short circuit, then take them at zero cost. Do not pay extra for those facilities.
If you become more involved, you can look for a more accurate DMM later and maybe extra instrumentation that is more specialised. Just not at this stage.
Look for a good set of DCV ranges 0-200.0mVdc , 0-2000mVdc, 0-2.000Vdc, 0-20.00Vdc, 0-200Vdc, and finally one around 0-500Vdc.
If you can you want the same set of ranges for ACV. Yes, right down to 0-200.0mVac
Do not go looking for extra facilities at this stage.
If they throw in Capacitance, or Resistance, or hFE, or diode, or Buzzer on short circuit, then take them at zero cost. Do not pay extra for those facilities.
If you become more involved, you can look for a more accurate DMM later and maybe extra instrumentation that is more specialised. Just not at this stage.
I agree with Andrew about the DMM. SURE wants pictures to see if you have hacked the board or hooked it up wrong. The readings will also help them with Q.A. They are very good at making good on their products. Others have had problems like this, they make them on a high speed automated assembly line, some duds are bound to get through. Post pictures of your set up and your meter and we will do our best to help you. Oh yes, the DIP switches, no you did not damage the board by having the switches off.
If you are measuring voltage then set Vdc or Vac. But set the highest scale first and work down towards the lower scales to ensure you don't blow up your meter.
Some DC scales measure near zero on mains and other high voltages. Be careful to check for AC and DC before assuming it is safe.
Usually you want more than 2 significant figures (sig fig).
If you get 0Vac on the 600Vac scale then expect only 1 or 2 sig fig when you reset to the 200Vac scale. If 2 sig fig or less then reset to 20.00Vac scale. if still low reading then set to 200Vdc and check again.
You are looking for 3 or 4 sig fig for a "good & valid" reading. eg 346mVac or 1027mVdc.
If your DMM has an ON/OFF switch get into the habit of leaving it on very high Vac at every switch OFF.
Some DC scales measure near zero on mains and other high voltages. Be careful to check for AC and DC before assuming it is safe.
Usually you want more than 2 significant figures (sig fig).
If you get 0Vac on the 600Vac scale then expect only 1 or 2 sig fig when you reset to the 200Vac scale. If 2 sig fig or less then reset to 20.00Vac scale. if still low reading then set to 200Vdc and check again.
You are looking for 3 or 4 sig fig for a "good & valid" reading. eg 346mVac or 1027mVdc.
If your DMM has an ON/OFF switch get into the habit of leaving it on very high Vac at every switch OFF.
So, when Sure asked me to do the following test:
"First, please test the left channel via connecting corresponding Vout + and Vout- to GND when the board is powered, and send us the pictures of voltage results measured by multimeter.
Second, when the board is not power, please test the test the left channel via connecting corresponding Vout + and Vout- to GND, and send us the the pictures of resistance results measured by multimeter"
That means I'm testing the broken channel? Am I placing the probes on the output pins(where the speakers connect to)? When it reads 0 volts does that mean there's something wrong with it?
"First, please test the left channel via connecting corresponding Vout + and Vout- to GND when the board is powered, and send us the pictures of voltage results measured by multimeter.
Second, when the board is not power, please test the test the left channel via connecting corresponding Vout + and Vout- to GND, and send us the the pictures of resistance results measured by multimeter"
That means I'm testing the broken channel? Am I placing the probes on the output pins(where the speakers connect to)? When it reads 0 volts does that mean there's something wrong with it?
hello to all, it's been some time that I was last on here...I would agree with most that's been said... like Andrew say's set your meter to the correct ac or dc voltage...it will tell you how to use it in the booklet that came with it. on testing a unknown amp never hook your speaker to it unless there's low mv at the out put of the amp if there's high volt that 5 volts dc or more the amp may be at fault..
a working amp of balanced voltage will have low mv volts of say between 10mv to say 50mv's..anything over say a one volt dc is high..
a working amp of balanced voltage will have low mv volts of say between 10mv to say 50mv's..anything over say a one volt dc is high..
there is a easy way to check amps and we use a low valve resistor say 10 ohms at 10 watts connected to the o/p speaker end this dummy loading the amp and saves burning up the speaker coil... now place the low resistor across the speaker end..power up and do not apply signal yet...place your meter lead across the load and read the voltage first on dc range of say 200vdc the switch it down..if all is well apply signal and set meter to ac volts of 200v ac and see what you get... now if we have 20 volts ac across the 8 ohm speaker test load we get 50 watts ...20 divided 8 = 2.5 amp times by 20v ac = 50watt.
if you have a 2 channel amp and 1 side is at fault and there's no schematic to hand you can use the working side to trace good voltage's then compare it to the fault side..
this will aid sorting things quicker..
most of the tech's on here have been repairing and servicing equipment for many years and we're be glad to help point in the right direction....
this will aid sorting things quicker..
most of the tech's on here have been repairing and servicing equipment for many years and we're be glad to help point in the right direction....
I did not get a thing you just said. Hahaha. I'm so sorry, this isn't really my forte as you can see. Ha.
So anyway I tested the speaker channel yesterday, on the working side it measures 0 volts, and on the broken side it measures 18.something volts(can't remember what it was) what does this mean?
Take into account I'm using this http://www.sure-electronics.net/download/AA-AB32181_Ver1.0_EN.pdf amp. Thanks. Pardon me for my lack of knowledge in this subject, I'm glad you guys can be of help
So anyway I tested the speaker channel yesterday, on the working side it measures 0 volts, and on the broken side it measures 18.something volts(can't remember what it was) what does this mean?
Take into account I'm using this http://www.sure-electronics.net/download/AA-AB32181_Ver1.0_EN.pdf amp. Thanks. Pardon me for my lack of knowledge in this subject, I'm glad you guys can be of help
ok, we're take it easy..lol (laugh out loud)
Sorry about that.. I sure all of us on her can take a different pointer on here..
you've tested the working side via using your meter..more so have you have connected your speaker to the working side.. if all is good, you will hear a nice clean hum free sound..in the bad side there might be a loud hum. use a cheap speaker that you don't care if it burns up!
did you set your meter to say dc volts?
Sorry about that.. I sure all of us on her can take a different pointer on here..
you've tested the working side via using your meter..more so have you have connected your speaker to the working side.. if all is good, you will hear a nice clean hum free sound..in the bad side there might be a loud hum. use a cheap speaker that you don't care if it burns up!
did you set your meter to say dc volts?
mmm I just looked over that class d amp...sometimes these type of unit are best just replaced unlike solid sated amp's were we change components to sort things out...
chip amps can be damaged easy.. is the module under warranty? you might need to get a fresh one!
As most of us have used the dummy load thing on amps as it save burning up the speaker... just one question here, how did you connect things up be for it went faulty?
slight miss type in the last message...was meant to say..all of us on here can take a different pointer on here..
chip amps can be damaged easy.. is the module under warranty? you might need to get a fresh one!
As most of us have used the dummy load thing on amps as it save burning up the speaker... just one question here, how did you connect things up be for it went faulty?
slight miss type in the last message...was meant to say..all of us on here can take a different pointer on here..
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