Has anybody built a FSP 18 SXY?

with 4 of this 15" BMS's you reach the same as 8 18TBX100
but they cost 578 euros
:)
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Littlemike 2008:
Lots and lots of options out there. There are lots of examples, and lots and lots of screenshots. Learn to use hornresp. It is not hard to figure out.

We'll show you the trail, tell you about our trips, share our maps, provide assistance and encouragement where we can, but we're not gonna climb your mountain for you.

Design, build, test, evaluate, redesign ...
 
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the BMS 18N862 have more xmax
the motor is not super strong as a 18DS115 but
the stadium horn do not have a high compression ratio it was designed for the 3015LF who do not have a super strong motor and cone
so the BMS looks like a nice fit for the stadium horn

with 4 cabs at 1.7kW each
you can reach 140dB @30Hz

just take in account that by looses and stuff you can loose around 2dB
so lets say 138dB
but you pay the price for a high XMAX driver
€717

BC 18DS115 is --->556 but don't sim well in the STADIUM HORN
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I guess your best bet
taking in account your budget is the BC 18TBX100-8 --> €288 per driver
it sims great and you can attach a pair to each output of the CVR 1004 for a total of 8 cabinets per amp
( note that im using 8 ohm drivers )
so to load the amp @4ohms per output
im not a big fan of running PA amps at 2ohms even the amp says so.
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i wish i live in the other side of the pond
over here even the national speakers makers cant compete with the quality vs price of the italian guys
eminence have a monster spec driver but is 1200 USD 😲
 
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frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
Paid Member
Onething i have not seen mentioned.

4 bass drivers means that one can do a pair of push-push woofers.

A single 18 and you would need a much more robust box and it could still walk.

I would choose the pair of woofers, as the can be used to help deal with room modes.

In most cases i’d happily give up some Vd to get teh advantages of a pair of push-push.

dave
 
I'd love to use these ciare ndh 18-4s drivers that i already have
I don't see a real reason not to use them.

I'm not sure what you mean by ventilating the design, you might be talking about something else with a vastly different purpose (like porting the rear chamber). So unless you know what you're doing, you probably shouldn't. If you know what you're doing, go right ahead ;)

I Will use regular bb/bb grade hardwood multiplex instead of birch because here in belgium its 50€ for regular hardwood and 80€ for birch.
As pointed out, it's more about the number of plies and the quality of those plies. Baltic birch typically has the highest number of plies on the market. Hardwood plywood isn't typically in the same class (at least not for that price). For that 30,- difference I wouldn't do it.

On that subject, 18 mm Baltic birch B/BB or even CP/BB easily goes for 130,- or more in your neighboring Netherlands, so 80,- is a steal. Save money on the drivers and spend it on the plywood almost all professional audio brands use for their loudspeakers since day and age.

Also the FSP cabinet doesn't look like it has enough spacing between the driver and the baffle, I would add an 18 mm ring between the driver and the baffle.

@maxolini: Yes, like those.

I actually had a tapped horn once that painfully distorted with some 18LW1400's, with the 18NLW9600 in the same tapped horn that distortion was gone. Just saying tapped horns might distort less then reflex cabinets but not always.
 
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