Hardwood front baffles

[Randy Bassinga]

Hence my recommendation of wood flour and ply skin on one side and 100gsm or so woven on the other in the sandwich with the plank as the core. Hope you realise that laminating the veil and goo is encapsulation. Can you please elaborate on which part of the process were you being contrary about?

 

[Randy Bassinga]

Would hide glue be a good option for this? And would it be advisable to seal all sides of the hardwood first?

I'll let others chime in on that glue. Not something I have experience with

First, you will have to decide how you want the edges on the plank. Do you want a round over or sharp, clean edges? At any rate, the veil is applied over the face and over the round overs and the glue line. Then another sheet is wrapped around the box and overlaps the edges coming over the glue line. This all disappears under epoxy btw. For hard edges the fabric is just applied to the face and wrapped over the box. There is no overlap required to tab a baffle on by overlapping, just helps with round overs

Sealing? This is a two-step thing. A sanding sealer is required for creating 'water break free' surface and is part of prep and encapsulation for weathering is a finishing step. All sides of the plank need to be prepped before any epoxy

 

[jayme]

Thank you. Very insightful for me.

I only bring up hide glue because that is used on my son's bass to affix the front spruce face to the maple hardwood ply sides and back. Altho i guess that is only attached at the edges, but is under considerable tension from the strings on the face.

 

[mdpaudio]

Making a panel out of 1” strips alternating the grain can look great and is very stable. I use marine glue to bond the slats tightly clamping them until dry. A single piece of solid wood has a resonance that a glued up stack doesn’t in addition to added stability.