Dimensions are posted here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=478317#post478317
I received the last shipment of parts for the LM4780 kits. I also managed to get one channel working tonight. It seems to work rather well. I haven't done any extended testing, as I only have one channel finished. I will take some pictures once I can find my digital camera charger.
The kits should start shipping out this weekend. I will be putting together the shipment of parts for Peter tomorrow morning to mail up to him. (already mailed him some board for his testing).
--
Brian
The kits should start shipping out this weekend. I will be putting together the shipment of parts for Peter tomorrow morning to mail up to him. (already mailed him some board for his testing).
--
Brian
So here it is, first two boards assembled ( as I believe Brian assembled only one so far 
).
I got a bit sidetracked with my recent experiments with TDA1541 DAC, but yesterday I finally managed to put together those boards and today I hope to put it into a chassis and compare with 3875 chip (that's why I used similar components). It seems like leaving rectifier board connected is a good idea and I will feed two double bridges from common secondaries.
I must say that this board came up pretty nice actually and there is not a single thing yet I would like to change here.
It seems like double aluminum oxide insulators might work here, as they provide more than enough spacing on mounting holes. In that case a push bar would have to be used.
I will be experimenting with bridged configuration soon.
).I got a bit sidetracked with my recent experiments with TDA1541 DAC, but yesterday I finally managed to put together those boards and today I hope to put it into a chassis and compare with 3875 chip (that's why I used similar components). It seems like leaving rectifier board connected is a good idea and I will feed two double bridges from common secondaries.
I must say that this board came up pretty nice actually and there is not a single thing yet I would like to change here.
It seems like double aluminum oxide insulators might work here, as they provide more than enough spacing on mounting holes. In that case a push bar would have to be used.
I will be experimenting with bridged configuration soon.
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carlosfm said:
I don't think it's a good idea at all, Peter...
PSU diodes near the signal inputs?
If I didn't try it I wouldn't say so. I'm using this arrangement in my monoblocks and I don't see any problems whatsoever. I was kinda surprised myself, but I usually try things before making any comments
1 1300 W halogen with an umbrella
2 A good tripod, very stable
3 White, silver and grey cardboards
4 Minolta F100 4MPx (an "old" camera now, 2 years old)
5 Remote control (in order to avoid vibrations)
6 Manual exposure
7 Manual focusing
8 Manual white balance
9 5 different exposures for each picture
That's it!
Hints: Don't mix different light sources => bad colours
Calibrate the white balance before each session.
Your latest picures weren't too bad. You only have to get a bigger white cardboard plus an additional to get more controlled relections.
2 A good tripod, very stable
3 White, silver and grey cardboards
4 Minolta F100 4MPx (an "old" camera now, 2 years old)
5 Remote control (in order to avoid vibrations)
6 Manual exposure
7 Manual focusing
8 Manual white balance
9 5 different exposures for each picture
That's it!
Hints: Don't mix different light sources => bad colours
Calibrate the white balance before each session.
Your latest picures weren't too bad. You only have to get a bigger white cardboard plus an additional to get more controlled relections.
I have never used a background. If you have a cardboard size 0,7 x 1 m (2.5' x 3.5') or so you won't need a background.
... ooh, I forgot... Photoshop of course.
1 Unsharp mask (a must!), Unsharp maks is like waxing your car. It simply gets better, a win-win situation
2 Make sharper (occationally)
3 Levels, sometimes
4 Contrast, brightness often
5 Colour balance, not often
I have not practiced so much using "curves" but this makes wonders also... but... nothing can be as good as a good taken picuture to begin with. Put most of your efforrts there and try also to handle those cardboards carefully so you don't get scracthes becuase this creates much work in Photoshop to remove.
... ooh, I forgot... Photoshop of course.
1 Unsharp mask (a must!), Unsharp maks is like waxing your car. It simply gets better, a win-win situation
2 Make sharper (occationally)
3 Levels, sometimes
4 Contrast, brightness often
5 Colour balance, not often
I have not practiced so much using "curves" but this makes wonders also... but... nothing can be as good as a good taken picuture to begin with. Put most of your efforrts there and try also to handle those cardboards carefully so you don't get scracthes becuase this creates much work in Photoshop to remove.
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