• WARNING: Tube/Valve amplifiers use potentially LETHAL HIGH VOLTAGES.
    Building, troubleshooting and testing of these amplifiers should only be
    performed by someone who is thoroughly familiar with
    the safety precautions around high voltages.

Grid driven (ETM) KT88 SE amp design - final works on paper

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anyway, while i'm thinking of it, i wish you all the best, and hope it turns out well for you. Just remember to make sure you really know what you're doing if this is your first amp, or else you might be in for a nasty surprise...

Yeah, actually the design is there, still uncorrected :)

If someone knows which unnecessary caps to remove - go on, do it and try it if you want to :)

Note, that it will work in this stage, too, so it's already able to do something else than just smoke :D

Yeah, this will be my first attempt.

I think I'll solder everything together, complete, then father will check it and finally we'll turn it on.

If it works, riva riva .. next project will be -for me- the Borbely fet-tube MC preamp integrated into the passive preamp unit.

My father moves on with a Mosfet-built stereo amp for himself as next. If you're interested, I'll follow the steps here @ DIYAudio. It will also be a hi-fi treated audiophile-like one, if succesful. ;)

(I hope I could express myself right with last sentence, I mean my English) :D
 
hi vortex.

good to see you're getting into the tube amps too. i started getting into tubes about a year ago. my first project was a guitar amp form www.ax84.com... a real simple one... not like what you're doing, which is pretty ambitious first time project... i like it!... in the last few months, i've started getting into the technical side of it too, not just the practical and listening side which is what got me hooked in the first place... so my knowledge has still got a lonnggggggggg way to go before i can even consider myself competent with tube amps... but for now, i like to help with what advice i can offer from the knowledge i have acumulated, as i know how hard some of this tube stuff can be because there's so many things you have to consider when building an amp.

just for your info, i'm 17 years old, and in high school. i got my start in electronics through my father too as he used to service high end car audio gear, so obviously understands electronics... although it wasn't him who gave me the initial inspiration... i first started when i wanted to build a guitar fuzz pedal for myself, and i got him to help me out... he explained a bit about some basic electronics, and gave me a start and left me to build it and see how it turned out... it worked... then not long after that i got bitten by the tube bug... now i think i'm hooked for life.

so keep at it... it's a rewarding hobby to have. more rewarding than some other things i've done in my short life. it's a hobby that you can enjoy... and not only get enjoyment out of the design/construction part of it... you also end up with a nice end product, with that good ol' valve sound, which SS just can't beat... oh, and the feeling you get every time you play an amp that YOU made... well, it feels good!

keep it real...
 
some more information

The interesting thing will be the connection between preamp and the monoblocks, since I'm not going to use ultra-high quality interconnect cables and silver things with RCA plugs.. I'll just simply use BNC connectors on both sides (preamp-out/amp-in) with correct matched impedance. Some kind of better quality coaxial cable will fit.

Hi Vortex

I was also thinking about using BNC between a pre and power I am building. Technically I choose BNC because it's an improved RCA connection and practically because I can't find good female RCA's in Brazil.

I just thought using some 75ohm plugs and 75ohms coax cable, but when I saw your post about "matched impedance" I thought I would ask some ellaboration on this. How do you match impedance of pre - interconnect - power?

Thanks for your attention

Erik
 
Hi,

I match the impedance using correct 75 Ohms BNC plugs and connectors with 75 Ohm coaxial Cable :D

Nothing more. ;)

The impedance of RCA plugs could also be corrected, with a resistor at one end of the cable pointing to the ground (so only at one side!)

But as I've heard, it doesn't take too much in effect in audio-frequencies, but in digital transfer it does matter. It affects mainly the high frequency band.

-----------

Other things :

fdegrove, benny, others: still here? :)

I've found the article about feedbacks (father sent me by mail).

If you're interested, check this out !

(Points to a PDF doc.. just go to side 20/34 (or read the whole, very nice!!!)
 
hi again vortex...

i'm still here... well atleast i'm back again... haven't read that article yet.. will do soon.

i did a quick job on your schematic, and hopefully removed all the caps you didn't need to double without removing any that i shouldnt... get someone else to have a look as i'm bound to have made a mistake seeing as i did it quickly.

just for you information about doubling caps in the two un necessary ways you did.

fistly, you dounled all of the filter caps on your B+. this can actually be a good thing for the amp as well, as it will reduce ripple on your DC, but it's just a waste of time to go putting values on there in the nF range.. and this does nothing for your HF response (well actually it does as it effects the impedance of your DC, but thats another sotry, and it's not enough to worry about in this case)

seccondly, you doubled caps in the signal chain to ground... as they ae in //, capacitance sums together, and you get more capacitance to ground, which means you will bleed more HF to earth. this is bad as it actually decreases HF, which is the oposite of what you wanted to achieve.

hope this helps for now.

cheers
 

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