I have a replinthed lenco L75 and in another room a Teres 360 clone. Very little difference in SQ between them - and I can tell you the lenco is a lot easier build.
You do need to relube the motor and main bearing, get rid of the arm and fit something god an decent. All points like idler wheel etc need to be fettled to prime working order.
An air bearing arm, or shroder clone, or cantus arm would match very well.
Fran
You do need to relube the motor and main bearing, get rid of the arm and fit something god an decent. All points like idler wheel etc need to be fettled to prime working order.
An air bearing arm, or shroder clone, or cantus arm would match very well.
Fran
Attachments
and back to OT question...
and so the suggestions have come full circle.
woodturner-fran: absolutely beautiful work. I bet it sounds amazing. Particularly when you compare it to your Teres.
a.wayne: you flat-earther
! I have heard enough LP12s over the years. But a table that costs like a good use car is outta my price range. There are as many detractors as fans of that one.
girishkukadia: follow woodturner-fran's advice (which is exactly what you would read over at Lenco Heaven) regarding any old turntable regardless of type. A cleaned up and re-lubed table will sound better than one that is not.
The Lencos are not the only ones to consider. As I stated in a previous post Dual (idler changers), Garrard (idler changers) and Elac (idler changers) all have their pluses and minuses. I'm working on the Garrard Lab60 because I had a beater version kicking around, as well as a 1216 beater.Even these lowly tables with a little worj can truly perform. The same caveats exist for these though: clean, re-lube, re-plinth.
and so the suggestions have come full circle.
woodturner-fran: absolutely beautiful work. I bet it sounds amazing. Particularly when you compare it to your Teres.
a.wayne: you flat-earther
! I have heard enough LP12s over the years. But a table that costs like a good use car is outta my price range. There are as many detractors as fans of that one.girishkukadia: follow woodturner-fran's advice (which is exactly what you would read over at Lenco Heaven) regarding any old turntable regardless of type. A cleaned up and re-lubed table will sound better than one that is not.
The Lencos are not the only ones to consider. As I stated in a previous post Dual (idler changers), Garrard (idler changers) and Elac (idler changers) all have their pluses and minuses. I'm working on the Garrard Lab60 because I had a beater version kicking around, as well as a 1216 beater.Even these lowly tables with a little worj can truly perform. The same caveats exist for these though: clean, re-lube, re-plinth.
Better than new
a.wayne: In my opinion idlers offer an incredibley value. They also (generally but not always) help conserve rotational momentum as long as the motors are of good size and the platters are relatively heavy.
I understand that many senior members who may owned some of these tables in the past have the experience of no love lost, but things change. With the advent of better materials being readily available, things like improved tonearm wiring, improved bearing materials and machining tolerances just to name a couple. And if one listens to the table, most can figure out the root cause(s) of much of the mechanical noises and eliminate the guilty offenders from the table. Please think about this last point. Also consider how far all things audio have advanced in the last 25 years. Who would imagine that rice paper used as a platter mat (with the addition of some raised concentric rings) might give the results reported by those that worship at the altar to the LP12?
All I am saying is that much has changed, and if one looks at things pragmatically, most can figure things out pretty easily for themselves.
Please note that I currently use a belt drive table daily because of the arm I have mounted on it. Also note I haven't spent much time arguing against belt or direct drives. There are good examples of each type.
a.wayne: In my opinion idlers offer an incredibley value. They also (generally but not always) help conserve rotational momentum as long as the motors are of good size and the platters are relatively heavy.
I understand that many senior members who may owned some of these tables in the past have the experience of no love lost, but things change. With the advent of better materials being readily available, things like improved tonearm wiring, improved bearing materials and machining tolerances just to name a couple. And if one listens to the table, most can figure out the root cause(s) of much of the mechanical noises and eliminate the guilty offenders from the table. Please think about this last point. Also consider how far all things audio have advanced in the last 25 years. Who would imagine that rice paper used as a platter mat (with the addition of some raised concentric rings) might give the results reported by those that worship at the altar to the LP12?
All I am saying is that much has changed, and if one looks at things pragmatically, most can figure things out pretty easily for themselves.
Please note that I currently use a belt drive table daily because of the arm I have mounted on it. Also note I haven't spent much time arguing against belt or direct drives. There are good examples of each type.
Next up - Tonearms of various flavors (flavours for those of Her Majesty's Colonies), MM vs. MC cartridges - cartridge compliance vs. tonearm mass, tonearm wiring, preamplifier stages, suspensions, isolation, wall mounting vs. stands, ahhhhhhhh - the list is long. I'm certain that I have left some things out - but it was just a quick shot at making a comment on how much fun TT's can be......
What a beaut!
These are not necessarily the "end all", but a well put together L75 can reportedly run with many tables up to USD $20k mark for a fraction of the price. I think for a truly high-end build of one of these, as a minimum all areas of the pressed steel top-plate (that have no mechanical bits attached to it) should be filled with a good quality epoxy or similar to it to allow for a larger area of the top plate to be supported by the plinth. Or perhaps a PNP top plate. Not cheap, but reportedly very good (reported to me directly from a Lenco guru in the UK). Of course take this with the caveat that I have never heard one, so I have no personal knowledge. Then the plinth. At least you can make a multi-layered DIY one, and save some £s.
Then tonearms, cartridges, and a good phono stage. And improved main bearing...and...slate plinth...and...the list may never end. I'm jealous.
girishkukadia: very nice. It looks pretty clean. It will still need to be cleaned up (the bearings, platter, motor checked, speed checked, etc., and of course cleaned and re-lubed.). I'd still love one, and will probably get one as soon as funds allow.
These are not necessarily the "end all", but a well put together L75 can reportedly run with many tables up to USD $20k mark for a fraction of the price. I think for a truly high-end build of one of these, as a minimum all areas of the pressed steel top-plate (that have no mechanical bits attached to it) should be filled with a good quality epoxy or similar to it to allow for a larger area of the top plate to be supported by the plinth. Or perhaps a PNP top plate. Not cheap, but reportedly very good (reported to me directly from a Lenco guru in the UK). Of course take this with the caveat that I have never heard one, so I have no personal knowledge. Then the plinth. At least you can make a multi-layered DIY one, and save some £s.
Then tonearms, cartridges, and a good phono stage. And improved main bearing...and...slate plinth...and...the list may never end. I'm jealous.
Yes indeed. There's a lot of the info you'll need on lenco heaven - when I did mine I used their plans to make a plywood plinth, but also drilled some large holes through the plinth and filled that will lead shot for extra damping. Make sure as much as possible of the metal plate mates with the plinth.
I since found a second L75 in pretty much perfect shape and I intend doing a PTP build. A lot of guys are talking about slate being ideal, so I might just have to investigate getting some. Another bit of me would like some kind of cement/resin type plinth - perhaps CLD or something. I need to think and investigate more on that.
Personally, I think the arm is pretty much crap and just dump it, along with its associated mechanics. Add something like a rega rb250/300 etc and you jump up a serious number of notches.
Enjoy the rebuild!! Remember those are mains voltages under the cover so mind yourself!
Fran
I since found a second L75 in pretty much perfect shape and I intend doing a PTP build. A lot of guys are talking about slate being ideal, so I might just have to investigate getting some. Another bit of me would like some kind of cement/resin type plinth - perhaps CLD or something. I need to think and investigate more on that.
Personally, I think the arm is pretty much crap and just dump it, along with its associated mechanics. Add something like a rega rb250/300 etc and you jump up a serious number of notches.
Enjoy the rebuild!! Remember those are mains voltages under the cover so mind yourself!
Fran
Add something like a rega rb250/300
woodturner-fran: This (the RB250 particularly) surely has to be one of the best buys in audio history. Hot-rodding one can provide very good results at a very reasonable price. Even doing a complete modification build less bearing(s) can get you a long way towards an ultimate. Is it a SME (I have a 309 mag)? NO, but it doesn't cost like one either.
girishkukadia: In all of this discussion, I realized your question about a hot-rodded Rega tonearm has not been answered, I must apologize.
Basically three or four steps:
Following the mods, a RB250 (the favourite amongst modifiers, both DIY and commercial) will bring the performance up into a complete different level. As I have always stated, modifying these arms need not be expensive. If you can make your own counter-weigh, and can access appropriate hardware, it could all be done for under £100 or so (less the arm). If you chose newer Rega arms I cannot comment, but I must assume the RB251 is similar. I know that Rega had addressed the internal wiring "issue" with some of their arms, I'm just not sure if they have done so in their 2 lower models (or I guess you could spend more on an upper Rega tonearm that may already include these improvements).
woodturner-fran: This (the RB250 particularly) surely has to be one of the best buys in audio history. Hot-rodding one can provide very good results at a very reasonable price. Even doing a complete modification build less bearing(s) can get you a long way towards an ultimate. Is it a SME (I have a 309 mag)? NO, but it doesn't cost like one either.
girishkukadia: In all of this discussion, I realized your question about a hot-rodded Rega tonearm has not been answered, I must apologize.
Basically three or four steps:
- Replace the end stub of the RB250 or RB 300 as per Origin Live or similar.
- Replace the internal wiring of the tonearm with improved wiring (you can purchase kits from Origin Live and Audio Oragami as well as Ingognito). A complete DIY version can be done for much less as long as you can solder. To do so requires a pair of good quality RCA plugs, 4 cartridge clips (you may be able to salvage these or get some new ones), and 20' or so of a better tonearm wire. Cardas, Discover, eyc come to mind, but there is some commercially available wire that is suitable. I prefer single runs from the cartridge clips to the RCA inputs on your phono stage/preamp/integrated, or receiver.
- Buy or build an improved counter-weight. I really like (and have used) the JA Michelle "Tecno-weight which is excellent.
- Get a VTA adjuster nut or create your own. Thus you will be ale to adjust VTA for best performance of your cartridge. (Here again I have used and like the JA Michelle one.).
Following the mods, a RB250 (the favourite amongst modifiers, both DIY and commercial) will bring the performance up into a complete different level. As I have always stated, modifying these arms need not be expensive. If you can make your own counter-weigh, and can access appropriate hardware, it could all be done for under £100 or so (less the arm). If you chose newer Rega arms I cannot comment, but I must assume the RB251 is similar. I know that Rega had addressed the internal wiring "issue" with some of their arms, I'm just not sure if they have done so in their 2 lower models (or I guess you could spend more on an upper Rega tonearm that may already include these improvements).
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Nanook, thanks very much advice. Just wondering where to begin.
Im not sure if thus has been done before, but would it be possible to make a step by step guide and in which order to carry out the ''rework'' (which you have mentioned earlier) on the Lenco.
Also a list of tools/grease/oil/ptfe tape which are required for the Lenco will be a good idea and really helpful for all the newbie's who may want to rework their Lencos, but are unsure where to begin.
Im not sure if thus has been done before, but would it be possible to make a step by step guide and in which order to carry out the ''rework'' (which you have mentioned earlier) on the Lenco.
Also a list of tools/grease/oil/ptfe tape which are required for the Lenco will be a good idea and really helpful for all the newbie's who may want to rework their Lencos, but are unsure where to begin.
begin at the beginning.
and end at the end.
I've already stated the need to check out Lenco Heaven. Specifically this thread is where to get all the information you will ever need.
Tools would be pretty basic. The most specialized tool may be a pic to remove "E"-clips or internal/external lock-rings. Everything else is just basic electronics type tools: small wire cutters, screwdrivers, a digital multi-meter (for checking voltages, etc, not a necessity but always nice to have), etc. If making a plinth then basic carpentry tools.
Regarding the Rega re-wire and mods, there are so many post all over the place (here at diyaudio as well), you can do a search for that or "Rega mods" or similar. If I can manage to do this, I'm sure anyone can.
and end at the end.
I've already stated the need to check out Lenco Heaven. Specifically this thread is where to get all the information you will ever need.
Tools would be pretty basic. The most specialized tool may be a pic to remove "E"-clips or internal/external lock-rings. Everything else is just basic electronics type tools: small wire cutters, screwdrivers, a digital multi-meter (for checking voltages, etc, not a necessity but always nice to have), etc. If making a plinth then basic carpentry tools.
Regarding the Rega re-wire and mods, there are so many post all over the place (here at diyaudio as well), you can do a search for that or "Rega mods" or similar. If I can manage to do this, I'm sure anyone can.
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Duz anyone have experience using these little plastic bearings in the main platter bearing???? igus - Plastic Bushings To Replace Bronze Bearings
igus - Plastic Bushings To Replace Bronze Bearings
I'm at a bit of a loss as to why that didn't copy over correctly the 1st time - let me try it again. For some reason it prefers USA English to British English - THAT is rather odd!!!
"http://www.igus.com/wpck/default.aspx?PageNr=6410&CL=US-en"
I'm at a bit of a loss as to why that didn't copy over correctly the 1st time - let me try it again. For some reason it prefers USA English to British English - THAT is rather odd!!!
"http://www.igus.com/wpck/default.aspx?PageNr=6410&CL=US-en"
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