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anatech said:
I'm not realy sure, it would be up to her, Id probably want to go back to school and get my certification for doing home conventional electrical wiring, as i have always wanted to do that. Or become a shaw employee and do home cable systems. Ie wiring. I'm pretty sick of computers, doing it for 14 years its the same thing over and over again.
I'm sure if i moved there we would hang out
Id be able to hang out with Peter Daniel possibly and George too. I have so many ideas for audio designs just no tools It sux but as life goes on ill gather more and show my creations
Jase
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MJL21193 said:
...did I hear the crack of a whip?
No, sir,, we both agree on things. It's actually really nice. Ive always wanted to move to a bigger city where there is new things to see and learn, i hope to also start some photography stuff. Heather loves Ontario, all her friends are there so well, why not
Just a quick vote for Fluke DMM's.
My father has always carried Fluke working for various government contractors, so it was an obvious choice when I bought my own.
When I blew the poor thing up due to over voltage
, it was easy to buy parts for it and with some help from this forum replace the entire front end protection.
Now I'm looking for a couple Fluke bench meters. 8050's or the like. Unfortunately many seem to be in "for parts" condition.
My father has always carried Fluke working for various government contractors, so it was an obvious choice when I bought my own.
When I blew the poor thing up due to over voltage
, it was easy to buy parts for it and with some help from this forum replace the entire front end protection. Now I'm looking for a couple Fluke bench meters. 8050's or the like. Unfortunately many seem to be in "for parts" condition.
Banned
Joined 2002
imix500 said:Just a quick vote for Fluke DMM's.
My father has always carried Fluke working for various government contractors, so it was an obvious choice when I bought my own.
When I blew the poor thing up due to over voltage
Now I'm looking for a couple Fluke bench meters. 8050's or the like. Unfortunately many seem to be in "for parts" condition.
How much voltage are we talking here ?
A Fluke thread
Here's my small collection of Fluke bench multimeters.
From the bottom and up: Fluke 45, 8050A, 8012A
I did hook them up to see how close they are, fairly good considering their age (~ 15-20 years).
No calibration has been done since new
Note: In the picture one digit seems missing on the 45 due to display multiplexing.
Here's my small collection of Fluke bench multimeters.
From the bottom and up: Fluke 45, 8050A, 8012A
I did hook them up to see how close they are, fairly good considering their age (~ 15-20 years).
No calibration has been done since new
Note: In the picture one digit seems missing on the 45 due to display multiplexing.
Attachments
Hi Nordic,
I think possible fluke handheld models have been mentioned already in this thread.
A bench DMM has the benefit of taking little space once placed on a shelf and it stays put.
I like fluke 45 as it has TRMS, Dual Display, Frequency Counter and some math functions. The HP that Anatech suggested earlier seems fine to.
By the way, I have one big problem with handhelds, they always seem to get lost somewhere I cannot find them. My old trusty Fluke 77 seems lost forever
Can not tell, never done it.
Nordic said:
I think possible fluke handheld models have been mentioned already in this thread.
A bench DMM has the benefit of taking little space once placed on a shelf and it stays put.
I like fluke 45 as it has TRMS, Dual Display, Frequency Counter and some math functions. The HP that Anatech suggested earlier seems fine to.
By the way, I have one big problem with handhelds, they always seem to get lost somewhere I cannot find them. My old trusty Fluke 77 seems lost forever
Can not tell, never done it.
Banned
Joined 2002
4fun said:A Fluke thread
Here's my small collection of Fluke bench multimeters.
From the bottom and up: Fluke 45, 8050A, 8012A
I did hook them up to see how close they are, fairly good considering their age (~ 15-20 years).
No calibration has been done since new
Note: In the picture one digit seems missing on the 45 due to display multiplexing.
I'll take the bottom one please
Hi Nordic,
Speaking from experience, be sure to get a certification with data! I've often seen meters run through for certification only that are a little out of tolerance, but get a pass anyway without being optimized. The entire point is to be able to trust your measurements! I got in trouble often for optimizing meters when they were in for cert only. This is even though I was following the published guidelines. Most technicians are judged on throughput (dollars earned) rather than the quality of their work. It's just like any other business out there.
-Chris
This is extremely variable depending where you are it seems. It also matters on what level of service you request.
Speaking from experience, be sure to get a certification with data! I've often seen meters run through for certification only that are a little out of tolerance, but get a pass anyway without being optimized. The entire point is to be able to trust your measurements! I got in trouble often for optimizing meters when they were in for cert only. This is even though I was following the published guidelines. Most technicians are judged on throughput (dollars earned) rather than the quality of their work. It's just like any other business out there.
-Chris
Hi anatech. I did that touching you suggested for the METEX M-3650 but nothing happened. No more LCD contrast. Tried to completely open it up because the LCD is socketed and I would like to take it out and put it back in, but the rotary switch is fixed and jams. I will see for a new one, that dc average you mentioned must be the culprit, bcs it has been losing contrast gradually. Its old and served well, it may R.I.P.
One thing I wanted to ask you is what happens if I touch more than 600V DC with Fluke 115 for instance. I do tube circuits and its a very real possibility. It dies instantly? Shows 'over'? If it dies is its service bitterly priced?
One thing I wanted to ask you is what happens if I touch more than 600V DC with Fluke 115 for instance. I do tube circuits and its a very real possibility. It dies instantly? Shows 'over'? If it dies is its service bitterly priced?
Hi Salas,
Often, these meters have a varistor that is intended to break down above the top voltage rating in order to protect the meter (and you). There is normally some device (fuse or resistor) that is designed to open.
In cases where you would reasonably expect to see high voltages, use a high voltage probe designed for the purpose. They will normally plug into your meter jacks and perform a 10:1 attenuation. There used to be some models that were good to about 1,200 VDC peak as I recall. If you need to buy a more expensive model for that feature, it would be less expensive to save up and buy it. Figure how much two or three dead ones are worth.
Finally, you could always purchase a DC voltmeter module from Ebay. Put it in a case with a higher voltage dropping string and calibrate that meter for the one high voltage range. You will need to use higher wattage resistors and a number of them. Watch the maximum voltage ratings for these parts. Use a "safety" banana socket as you've seen on the meters. The probe plug is shrouded with plastic. Take great care to insulate everything from all parts of the casing.
I would much rather you buy the HV probe.
-Chris
Often, these meters have a varistor that is intended to break down above the top voltage rating in order to protect the meter (and you). There is normally some device (fuse or resistor) that is designed to open.
In cases where you would reasonably expect to see high voltages, use a high voltage probe designed for the purpose. They will normally plug into your meter jacks and perform a 10:1 attenuation. There used to be some models that were good to about 1,200 VDC peak as I recall. If you need to buy a more expensive model for that feature, it would be less expensive to save up and buy it. Figure how much two or three dead ones are worth.
Finally, you could always purchase a DC voltmeter module from Ebay. Put it in a case with a higher voltage dropping string and calibrate that meter for the one high voltage range. You will need to use higher wattage resistors and a number of them. Watch the maximum voltage ratings for these parts. Use a "safety" banana socket as you've seen on the meters. The probe plug is shrouded with plastic. Take great care to insulate everything from all parts of the casing.
I would much rather you buy the HV probe.
-Chris
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