I was referring to the phenomenon that occurs when you play a ported speaker more than ~1/2 octave below tuning, in which the port no longer acts like a port and instead acts like a giant hole in the box, drastically increasing driver excursion for a given amount of power. So you're playing your music, everything's fine and the sub is happy, then along comes a low note or a frequency sweep that goes below the box's tuning frequency and *pop*, there goes the sub.
Unloading itself doesn't mean overexcursion, after all when the sub is unloading it's simply behaving as if it wasn't in a box at all, which obviously doesn't destroy it in and of itself. The problem is that the mechanical power handling of the sub is very high between ~1/2 octave below tuning and ~1 octave above tuning, so you can push it very hard in that range (which for a sub, is basically its entire usable range), but once you get below ~1/2 octave below tuning, the mechanical power handling of the sub goes out the window, and if you still happen to be feeding it the gross amount of power you were feeding it above tuning, it will over excurt and rip itself apart.
Unloading itself doesn't mean overexcursion, after all when the sub is unloading it's simply behaving as if it wasn't in a box at all, which obviously doesn't destroy it in and of itself. The problem is that the mechanical power handling of the sub is very high between ~1/2 octave below tuning and ~1 octave above tuning, so you can push it very hard in that range (which for a sub, is basically its entire usable range), but once you get below ~1/2 octave below tuning, the mechanical power handling of the sub goes out the window, and if you still happen to be feeding it the gross amount of power you were feeding it above tuning, it will over excurt and rip itself apart.
rocko1290 said:
It would be a good idea, but it's never "necessary". If you were to feed your sub 1 watt, it would never overexcurt, regardless of tuning or what it's playing. It's all about what you like to listen to, how loud, etc.
Other brands that can do 600@2ohm? That's what you said last page, but then you started another thread asking for 600@4ohm. Those are 2 completely different amps that you would be looking for. The 2ohm amp would most likely be a relatively mid priced mono amp. The 4ohm amp would most likely be a strong 2ch amp that's been bridged.
Or the JL 500/1 could do both
Bridging is easy, you just use the + and - that are labelled "bridge" on the amp (which would be the + from one channel and the - from the other) and connect it to the sub normally.
A good starting point for the SSF is about 5hz below the box's tuning frequency. The best way to get the right setting would be to play a sine sweep and adjust the SSF to keep the excursion from going out of wack when you go below the tuning frequency.
A good starting point for the SSF is about 5hz below the box's tuning frequency. The best way to get the right setting would be to play a sine sweep and adjust the SSF to keep the excursion from going out of wack when you go below the tuning frequency.
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